TSC Producers Pride Defender 2020 Version

[Thomaswgordon]

I would put a bead of silicone caulk under the flashing. Then, wipe the tarp and flashing where you're taping with a clean rag and rubbing alcohol. That will take any grease or oil off and allow the tape to stick well. If you use any "brand name" aluminum tape with removable backing it should stick very well. The caulk underneath and the tape will give a flexible, double, seal.

Here’s a close up

 

[DavidReaves]

Here’s a close up

Ok, so my idea doesn't work... based on the other pictures, I thought the coop was slightly higher than the run, looks like it's the other way around. I will think about it a bit. My first impulse is to try a vinyl floor transition strip.

[though about it...]

Depending on the difference in height between the run and coop, you might be able to use a Z-flashing. It's normally used to trim out siding. You could use it horizontally. You would use it the same way I was originally talking about the L-flashing.

Put some caulk on it, then fasten with a few roofing screws (with rubber washers) into the tube for the run roof edge. Seal with either aluminum tape or "flashing" tape, which is a kind of roofing asphalt tape.

This is what Z-flashing looks like. There's also a link to it at Lowes, here, 5/8" difference in height. There is also a 3/8" version. They call it drip edge for the 5/8" trim.

 

[DavidReaves]

The FINAL predator proofing update. Just finished with 36 inches of hardware cloth halfway up the sides. The door was a little iffy and not as tight of a seal as I would prefer, but better than nothing.

I don't know if it is worth the extra effort, but if you still have a little more wire, you could add a second piece of wire on the left edge of the gate, flat to the existing wire, that extends beyond the gate to overlap the opening. You could do the same on the other side of the gate with a Z-shaped section of wire that goes in front of the door panel, alongside the pipe for the door, then behind the frame pipe to fill that opening. That would fill the space on the sides of the gate.

Again, a very hasty sketch to sort of diagram what I mean.

 

[Thomaswgordon]

I don't know if it is worth the extra effort, but if you still have a little more wire, you could add a second piece of wire on the left edge of the gate, flat to the existing wire, that extends beyond the gate to overlap the opening. You could do the same on the other side of the gate with a Z-shaped section of wire that goes in front of the door panel, alongside the pipe for the door, then behind the frame pipe to fill that opening. That would fill the space on the sides of the gate.

Again, a very hasty sketch to sort of diagram what I mean.

View attachment 3135668

I may do a little something on the left side of the gate. The issue is the door opens both inward and outward, so if I’m understanding you correctly it would only be able to open one way if it’s overlapped on opposite sides correct? I don’t understand the Z shaped section at all.

 

[3KillerBs]

I may do a little something on the left side of the gate. The issue is the door opens both inward and outward, so if I’m understanding you correctly it would only be able to open one way if it’s overlapped on opposite sides correct? I don’t understand the Z shaped section at all.

Yes, you need to pick a direction for the gate to open because the predator-proofing will limit it to open only one way.

 

[aart]

Here’s a close up

Man, that's gonna be tough to manage.
Is that how the manufacturer says to assemble?

 

[DavidReaves]

I may do a little something on the left side of the gate. The issue is the door opens both inward and outward, so if I’m understanding you correctly it would only be able to open one way if it’s overlapped on opposite sides correct? I don’t understand the Z shaped section at all.

Here's another quick sketch of the top view of the wire to demonstrate the Z. The first shows the gate partially open. The lower one shows the gate closed. The Z shaped wire is attached to the gate from the front, is bent around the gate itself then folded to reach the other post when closed.

It doesn't provide that much "real" security except for very small animals. What it does do is create the appearance of closure, so predators aren't tempted to attack the weak spot.

Another way to approach the gate security could be to fasten (screw or bolt) a 1x4 or 1x6 (depending on the actual gap) to the gate post. That would form a true barrier on the back side of the opening but would allow the gate to open outward. That's how normal doors seal, with some sort of trim around the edges.

Here's what that would look like on the hinge side. The trim touches the gate but isn't fastened to it, only the gatepost around it. Another board on the back of the gatepost of the open side would work the same.

 

[DavidReaves]

Man, that's gonna be tough to manage.
Is that how the manufacturer says to assemble?

My guess is that the manufacturer doesn't intend a weather-proof seal. It's a general-purpose kennel that can be attached to a chicken coop. It sure doesn't look like they allowed any way to seal it in the design.

 

[3KillerBs]

Here's another quick sketch of the top view of the wire to demonstrate the Z. The first shows the gate partially open. The lower one shows the gate closed. The Z shaped wire is attached to the gate from the front, is bent around the gate itself then folded to reach the other post when closed.

View attachment 3135946

It doesn't provide that much "real" security except for very small animals. What it does do is create the appearance of closure, so predators aren't tempted to attack the weak spot.

Another way to approach the gate security could be to fasten (screw or bolt) a 1x4 or 1x6 (depending on the actual gap) to the gate post. That would form a true barrier on the back side of the opening but would allow the gate to open outward. That's how normal doors seal, with some sort of trim around the edges.

Here's what that would look like on the hinge side. The trim touches the gate but isn't fastened to it, only the gatepost around it. Another board on the back of the gatepost of the open side would work the same.

View attachment 3135945

Your sketches are very informative.

 

[aart]

My guess is that the manufacturer doesn't intend a weather-proof seal. It's a general-purpose kennel that can be attached to a chicken coop. It sure doesn't look like they allowed any way to seal it in the design.

Maybe, but it would have been much better to attach the coop a gabled side of run to avoid the 'massive' runoff going into the non-flashed edge of the coop roof..