ugh- help me put up my walls!

Not a great picture but gives you an idea of what I am talking about...

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The door frame looks like it is 2x4 on the side wall about 2 ft from the top- it isn't.
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Well, on the one hand, you have learned a valuable lesson there
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On the other hand, it is actually not such a bad thing at all that your plywood comes out short. Here is what I would do, lazybutt me, under those circumstances, for an outside wall:

Put the plywood on, flush with the floor i.e. the easy way (just prop it up and screw). This will leave you an uncovered strip along the top of the wall.

This is actually PERFECT for making vent openings, and I would HIGHLY recommend converting at least some of it that way (just use bits of 2x4 to fill in between studs at the bottom of what will be the vent opening, you know? Best done BEFORE you put any plywood up).

Honestly the easiest thing would be to make the WHOLE upper strip vent openings! Just hinge on some sections of board or plywood strip, making sure it's fitted well, with weatherstripping where necessary if you live in a cold climate.

But for any part you're not going to convert to upper vents, go get some Z flashing from the hardware store, sized for your thickness of plywood more or less, and put it on top of the plywood. This will encourage water to stay outside, not rot the edge of the plywood sheet or get in the coop. Because this is *high* on the wall, it should not be much of a problem, especially if you have decent roof overhangs.

Then cut a strip of plywood the right width to cover the rest of the top of the wall. Personally I'd slap a bead of caulk on the upright part of the Z flashing before putting the plywood on there, and I'd prime and paint the lower edge of that plywood strip (where it will sit on the flashing) pretty well BEFORE putting the plywood up.

Should look ok. Sort of decorative
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And it will *work*.

I haven't started the roof yet (not looking forward to it either). I plan on doing a gable and building trusses on the ground first.

Make real real REAL REAL sure you are building your trusses on an absolutely 100% flat smooth area, like on a concrete slab or good driveway. Otherwise they will end up unfixably wonky. Also highly recommend either building them on top of a pattern one, or tracing *very carefully and clearly* onto your surface, so they end up truly identical. Not-truly-identical trusses will make your life miserable
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(e.t.a. - before you put any siding on, though, please get a book or website on stud wall framing and study how to frame out a door opening -- you need more studs and header there. Remember it's a load-bearing wall. Even if weakness does not cause structural collapse in such a small building, it will make it heck-on-earth to install a door that stays free-working
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Good luck, have fun,

Pat​
 
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When working with 4x8 sheets of siding. It always helps to build in even numbers. Not as much waste on materials. Up right studs centered on 16 or 24 inches. And make sure everything is square.

Looks great so far.

ps: Cute Baby!
 
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thanks for additional replies...

Pat...

lol, yep- it is definitely a learning experience.
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I have always done small chicken tractors. By the third one, I could build a real neat tractor.
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I like the ventilation idea. I could do that on the sides and get away with it but am not sure about the front and the back. Those might not be such a big deal because I have to use additional plywood for the roof space. Hmmm...

I am planning on making one side having a 4ft wall and having the rest be hardware cloth.

Thanks for the truss and door advice.

Hoot-

The square thing also kicked my butt! I am off about 1/2 inch. Who'd of thought a 1/2 inch would make a such a big deal. Ugh!

My vertical studs centered 24 in.
 
I am the worlds worst for being out of square. And I own 3 squares. It use to drive my dad nuts. He was a real Carpenter.

You can try my trick. I just keep telling my self "It adds character"

Hoot
 
I have a tip for you if you did not do the plywood yet..

I have been a contractor for 35 years..

the tips are all good ones.. I use the 2 nails on the bottom to rest the plywood on..

but no matter what method you use.. this is what really matters..

make sure the top of your walls ends up SQUARE .. even if you have to sacrifice a little plumbness on your walls. (is plumbness a word?)
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anyhow, If you do not get the top of your walls square, you are going to fight with it throughout the whole roof construction..

to square the top of the walls..

measure diagonally from corner to corner.. adjust the walls until the two diagonals are exactly the same.. brace it tightly and then put your sheathing on.. trust me on this one..
 

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