Hi there, hope you are enjoying BYC!
Getting a fecal float done to confirm species and load count to ensure treating with the correct substance if need and not treating what you don't have. Doing so a few times per year can get you familiar with YOUR parasite load, at YOUR location, with YOUR stock density and husbandry practices. I have not
YET had to treat in 10+ years, despite seeing sign many will swear is worms... like messy bumm, yellow frothy poo, or sometimes runny.
I did have to treat for coccidiosis my first year here. All properties and regions are different. After several tests throughout the year... you MAY need to treat regularly, as some folks do... but please get informed of YOUR
need first.
The only worms that will ever be seen in droppings are large round worms and tape worms. All others will stay in the intestines and only their microscopic oocysts (eggs) will pass. Even a dog vet can run fecal floats it cost about $25 at mine which is high. There are some mail services that are much more affordable. I bought my own microscope as I have a lot of animals and it made sense to me.
I never treat without cause... as doing so can render things ineffective when actually needed. In addition to taking extra effort, time, and expense for meds... no need to subject my birds to (even mild) poisons or toss out eggs.
Many things have withdrawal periods for eggs and butcher. It varies depending on substance used and animal being treated...
Egg residue FARAD
veterinary drugs in laying hens residues
Not a suggestion of ways to treat, but rather ways to prevent or reduce parasite load...
1) first keep nutrition balanced by feeding a formulated ration not diminished by low nutrient treats, as this is key to a healthy immune system which will fight off ALL things better. Purina Flock Raiser is a good choice for mixed species/age flocks. It has enough niacin for most ducks (jumbo Pekin may require more). I use it for my all my birds hatch to table (or pet) with oyster shell on the side free choice for active layers. Since finding it, I never switch to layer which has less protein and more calcium (also less amino acids/niacin).. my birds have softer molts and come through molt faster.
2) Keep stock density low as higher densities spread all things faster. Remove waste regularly. I pick up bird droppings int he yard same as dog, it gets rid of any parasitic eggs, keeps down smell and flies. Dropping boards are a great tool!
3) Don't hang wild bird feeders or do other extra things to attract wildlife to your pasture as they can carry some diseases including viruses, as well as internal and external parasites. Put away all feeders at night to reduce free loading, parasite and disease toting rodents.
4) No bare ground. Consider "deep litter" (DL) or semi deep litter method (in covered runs or where grass don't grow). I do semi DL. That is I use droppings boards and remove what waste I do see so it stays fairly dry (not truly composting) but never stinky. The idea in part is that you are inviting good bacteria to the party to help keep the bad stuff in check.
Beware of things that may give a false sense of security.. as some may claim pumpkin seed or (food grade) diatomaceous earth but none will get
before and after fecal species load counts to verify efficacy.
5) Get a fecal
float and do a species load count.
Treat if needed! Follow directions and
repeat if instructed to... to knock it out and prevent resistance. Remember, worming is NOT preventative and won't stop future possibilities of parasitic attack. Some places have seasonal changes while others may always be the right season. It's effected by things I already mentioned but also soil type, weather, migration patterns, and individual immunity.
Regarding vaccines... too late for Marek's vaccine, also not welcome here to hide the disease. Might be able to do vNew Castle's still, I'm not familiar with it. Some vaccinate against Pox. Coccidiosis vaccine is to late and likely not needed, but if you see symptoms it can be treated with Corid.
Checking for external parasites is best done after dark with a flashlight keeping it dim so birds stay put and calm, part feathers below the vent and on the abdomen and look for things crawling away, angry red skin instead of light pink flesh, or any "dried mud clumps" on feather shafts. This is the easiest way to get a clear picture. Young birds are often going through so many mini molts on their way to maturity, I rarely find issues. Some hatched with broody hens do though.
I kinda wish your duckling had a friend, but hope it is doing well with your chickens! Pics always welcome!
Hope this is useful information!
