Ventilation on Amish Style Coop

[aart]

Would be good to see inside the actual coop near the eaves front and back.
But I would open up this soffit area....the one circled in front and the back.

 

[Aunt Tat]

When I opened the picture you posted I thought— “Is it just me or do the windows in the picture of the exterior not match the windows in the interior photo?”
Then I re-read what you said in the post.

It’s a nice looking coop. Plenty big enough for 6-8 birds (Can’t imagine 20 would fit, but hard to know without seeing inside)

I agree with Doug... it’s probably not worth bothering with the vents above the door. I think adding hardware cloth-backed ventilation slats (see below for example) *in* the human door and on the wall above the pop door would probably be plenty if you will open the windows at least occasionally.

View attachment 2560498

As Doug also mentioned, you’ll need to consider how you’ll close things up when temperatures drop. Maybe something like a wire bracket into which a board could be inserted (Of course, I can’t find an example when I want one, but it’s a wire “pocket’’ (used in pairs) that mounts on a surface/wall to allow the bottom corners of a board or plaque to slip in. The wire part then goes diagonally across the corner of the board, etc... I hope that makes sense)

The person how owned it originally bought another one just like for her new location. She said she has 13 chickens and she most definitely wouldn't be 20 in it.

I think 8 full size/reg size hens is all I'd want to put in (okay, 10 at MAX!) If I can take out the 2x4 roosts, I'll replace them with 2x2, slightly round the edges and smooth the entire length, then reinstall them bringing them forward a bit so the chickens will be sitting below the vent in the back.

I also like the idea of a vent in the man door! (Backed by hardware cloth of course!)

 

[3KillerBs]

I think 8 full size/reg size hens is all I'd want to put in (okay, 10 at MAX!) If I can take out the 2x4 roosts, I'll replace them with 2x2, slightly round the edges and smooth the entire length, then reinstall them bringing them forward a bit so the chickens will be sitting below the vent in the back.

You don't want to lower the roosts to the point where they're below the nest boxes or the chickens will sleep in (and poop in), the nests.

 

[Aunt Tat]

You don't want to lower the roosts to the point where they're below the nest boxes or the chickens will sleep in (and poop in), the nests.

I'd have to measure the height of the top perch as it is now, or cut the vent space so the air goes OVER their heads, not through them LOL...that will avoid them developing the desire to sleep in their nests.

 

[3KillerBs]

cut the vent space so the air goes OVER their heads, not through them

This is the best option if it's possible.

Heat an ammonia both rise so the ventilation should be at the very top of the coop if at all possible.

 

[roy2636]

I just purchased a overez large coop as well. Tractor supply had it for $600 off. sshhhhhh. I think they just wanted to get rid of it actually. I was there to buy a different coop and I just happened to see it in the warehouse when we went to go get it. they told me the price and told them i'd take that instead. a customer ordered it, saw it, and thought it was going to be to much work.

I do have a ventilation question as well. It has the 3" holes on each side of the coop. living in the midwest im wondering if i should add more ventilation as well? I found 4" plastic vents on amazon that match the 3" ones on either side. Should i do 4 of those in the over hang area between each stud?

I emailed overez and asked them about adding ventilation. their response is they have to 2 windows and 2 vents and havnt heard of extra ventilation being needed. thin side of the roof doe have a radiant barrier sheathing installed. its supposed to help cool in the summer and heat in the winter. by adding vents would i defeat the purpose of the radiant barrier?

 

[Kalmia]

I just purchased a overez large coop as well. Tractor supply had it for $600 off. sshhhhhh. I think they just wanted to get rid of it actually. I was there to buy a different coop and I just happened to see it in the warehouse when we went to go get it. they told me the price and told them i'd take that instead. a customer ordered it, saw it, and thought it was going to be to much work.

I do have a ventilation question as well. It has the 3" holes on each side of the coop. living in the midwest im wondering if i should add more ventilation as well? I found 4" plastic vents on amazon that match the 3" ones on either side. Should i do 4 of those in the over hang area between each stud?

I emailed overez and asked them about adding ventilation. their response is they have to 2 windows and 2 vents and havnt heard of extra ventilation being needed. thin side of the roof doe have a radiant barrier sheathing installed. its supposed to help cool in the summer and heat in the winter. by adding vents would i defeat the purpose of the radiant barrier?

I just got the large overez coop and will be putting hardware cloth covered vents in the soffit. There are other posts with modifications for overez coops that recommended this and it sounds pretty easy. I originally planned to make the round vents bigger but may just do additional vents/cutouts on the back wall or sides.
Unrelated to ventilation, but I’m also going to put hardware cloth over the windows to make them more predator proof.

 

[Aunt Tat]

Cudos for you questioning the ventilation system in these coop styles! I simply can't imagine the manufacturer thinking it's adequate - not according to everything I read on this site.

I have a friend that uses an Over EZ style coop and houses 15 chickens in it and she says the chickens are fine. We live in the PacNW, so in our area we have mild winters and MIGHT have a total of 2-3 wks of really hot weather. So I don't think she's gone a long time when the chickens have had to stay in the coop due to the winter weather.

Nevertheless, although I'm a newbie, I think chickens would only benefit from extra ventilation. My husband I discussed what to do about the same style of coop we're buying from our neighbor and we decided more 3-4 holes, covered with hardware cloth would do more good than harm.

I'm not sure if the windows are covered with hardware cloth, haven't had an "up-close look" at them but will add it if it's not already on them.

 

[aart]

I'm not sure if the windows are covered with hardware cloth, haven't had an "up-close look" at them but will add it if it's not already on them.

I'd not agree to buy it until I'd had a close look.

 

[3KillerBs]

I do have a ventilation question as well. It has the 3" holes on each side of the coop. living in the midwest im wondering if i should add more ventilation as well? I found 4" plastic vents on amazon that match the 3" ones on either side. Should i do 4 of those in the over hang area between each stud?

Good for you to be thinking of the ventilation.

A 3" circle is only .049 of a square foot.

A 4" circle is only .087 of a square foot.

You need 1 square foot of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation per adult, standard-size hen. To get 1 square foot of area in a circular shape you'd need a 14" circle.

My personal rule of thumb is that if I put my head and shoulders into the coop on a hot, sunny day and it's warmer in the coop than out I need to add more ventilation.