Venting Logistics

[AnchoredHomestead]

(First time chicken momma so apologies for silly questions or over-thinking.)
We are converting a covered storage area into a coop with recycled pallets. Top of area is metal roofing with wood underneath. Floor is concrete. Sides will be the pallets, painted both inside and out. Off to the right (East) will be their enclosed run for when we aren’t home for them to free range. Looking head on is facing South. For consideration we are in NW WA, 30 min from Canadian border. This coop will be for 5 Orpingtons this year. If I were to make the vents under the edge of the roof would making a few small vents with hardware cloth between the space where the wall will come up and before the roof begins be adequate? Do I need to have a way to close the vets off or is leaving them open 25/7, 365 going to be alright as planned? A few on the North side and a few on the South? (Circled in yellow for reference…going to have to imagine the wall because I’m in the process of taking the pallets apart to begin to build.) Or would West to East vents be better? We do get strong winds and cold weather. Also, a window or two on the South side would be most beneficial for light correct?

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. If you put your location into your profile people will always be able to see it and give better targeted advice. Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

Your conversion looks like it should make a great coop -- nice and roomy.

If I were to make the vents under the edge of the roof would making a few small vents with hardware cloth between the space where the wall will come up and before the roof begins be adequate? Do I need to have a way to close the vets off or is leaving them open 25/7, 365 going to be alright as planned?

First, some general information,

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

When planning your vents you need to remember to provide airFLOW in order move warm, moist, ammonia-laden air out the top while letting fresh air in.

Your area is cool and wet but not really *cold*, right? Not a lot of snowfall, I think?

Chickens who are dry and out of the wind easily tolerate temperatures down to 0F and even below. But if moisture builds up inside the coop they can be prone to frostbite at temperatures barely below freezing.

Don't be tempted to close it up too much, but do keep the permanent ventilation up near the roofline. I can't see the details of the construction to tell if open soffits are an option for you.

If so, leaving the soffits open (covered with hardware cloth), and possibly putting a ridge vent at the peak of the roof should meet your ventilation needs.

Windows for light and supplemental ventilation are good. Top-hinged windows are great because they are their own awnings against the weather. This article is about the support, but has good photos of how top-hinged windows work: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

 

[AnchoredHomestead]

Welcome to BYC. If you put your location into your profile people will always be able to see it and give better targeted advice. Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

Your conversion looks like it should make a great coop -- nice and roomy.



First, some general information,

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

When planning your vents you need to remember to provide airFLOW in order move warm, moist, ammonia-laden air out the top while letting fresh air in.

View attachment 3105259

Your area is cool and wet but not really *cold*, right? Not a lot of snowfall, I think?

Chickens who are dry and out of the wind easily tolerate temperatures down to 0F and even below. But if moisture builds up inside the coop they can be prone to frostbite at temperatures barely below freezing.

Don't be tempted to close it up too much, but do keep the permanent ventilation up near the roofline. I can't see the details of the construction to tell if open soffits are an option for you.

If so, leaving the soffits open (covered with hardware cloth), and possibly putting a ridge vent at the peak of the roof should meet your ventilation needs.

Windows for light and supplemental ventilation are good. Top-hinged windows are great because they are their own awnings against the weather. This article is about the support, but has good photos of how top-hinged windows work: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

Thank you for the information. The drawing helps those new to constructing/building! While my Dad is helping, I’m literally “just” a mom trying to build a coop and make sense of terms and ideas (so, SO many ideas on the internet make it too much!). Spending lots of time trying to do it right the first time, while also up cycling materials and keeping cost low.
TY for the location tip, I’ll add that!

 

[3KillerBs]

Thank you for the information. The drawing helps those new to constructing/building! While my Dad is helping, I’m literally “just” a mom trying to build a coop and make sense of terms and ideas (so, SO many ideas on the internet make it too much!). Spending lots of time trying to do it right the first time, while also up cycling materials and keeping cost low.
TY for the location tip, I’ll add that!

You're welcome.

Chickens are tough, adaptable animals who can be managed in a wide variety of ways as long as their basic needs for space, fresh air, shelter from harsh weather, and good nutrition are met.

The structure you're converting is an excellent base to work with.

 

[mowin]

I'd leave the entire soffit open on both sides, not just the areas you circled. I'd also add ventilation on the gable ends. All covered in HC, of course.

Post pics of the build as it comes together. We like pics.

 

[BobbieB7]

I'd leave the entire soffit open on both sides, not just the areas you circled. I'd also add ventilation on the gable ends. All covered in HC, of course.

Post pics of the build as it comes together. We like pics.

If using purlins you will have nice ventilation

 

[mowin]

If using purlins you will have nice ventilation

True. Roof is already there, and OP said metal with wood underneath. So assuming wood is sheathing.