Very chirpy chicks!

[haasle]

Yes, there is a thermometer in there but it only goes up to 80 degrees. Why do you feel bad for them? This is only my first time doing this, so don't make me feel bad, please. I came here for advice.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Yes, there is a thermometer in there but it only goes up to 80 degrees. Why do you feel bad for them? This is only my first time doing this, so don't make me feel bad, please. I came here for advice.

Sorry, it looks like a heater because the lid is on except for the section cut out, no vents. Then the big light--Looks closer than it is I guess---I figured it would be a lot hotter and Stuffy because of the lid being solid several inches all the way around the netting. If your chicks are only a few day old they need to be warmer---95 the first week, 90 the second, 85 the third, 80 the 4th is kinda a standard a lot go by. You do not need that top on at this time and it would allow better venting. Would you object to a cooler light dropped lower heat only on one end? You can use the same hanging fixture---maybe a 60 watt bulb. Do a set-up similar to one like one of the other members has in this pic. Set the height to where the temp is like I mentioned above---maybe a little warmer than less warmer---they will back away from the heat if its to hot and having just one end makes it where they can get completely away from the heat if needed to cool off.. Keep their food and water on the unheated in. I use a piece of screen wire over the top so they do not fly out when they get 2/3 weeks old. Think of your heat like if it was a broody hen----she only heats a area about the size of a small plate---not the whole yard. They come to her when they want to warm etc.

 

[Stephine]

​Yes, there is a thermometer in there but it only goes up to 80 degrees.   Why do you feel bad for them?   This is only my first time doing this, so don't make me feel bad, please.   I came here for advice.

Where did you put the thermometer? It needs to be right under where the strongest light is to give an accurate picture.
This looks like a risky set up to me too - too easy to overheat the chicks. I would take the whole lid off and if they can fly already or you need to keep the kids out of the brooder just put chicken wire or something over the whole top.
You are better off with a lower wattage lamp, you really don't need a 250 for just a few chicks. A lower wattage lamp you can hang a bit lower (I would not put it lower than the top of the brooder though, ever. I always keep some wire between the chicks and the lamp. For a very tall brooder you can put chicken wire around the lamp), so the light circle is smaller and the chicks have more room in the brooder to cool off it need be. A higher powered lamp can be hung higher to decrease the temperature below, but then it will also heat more space in the brooder since the light circle gets bigger which makes it harder for the chicks to cool off somewhere.
Until you find a better heat source, I would put the lamp at the very end, so it is right over the edge of the box. The chicks still have a nice little half circle to warm up in and the rest of the box stays cooler. Just make sure you don't melt the box under the lamp....

 

[PD-Riverman]

(I would not put it lower than the top of the brooder though, ever. I always keep some wire between the chicks and the lamp. For a very tall brooder you can put chicken wire around the lamp),

I go along with your post except for this part, but want to get your reason for saying this?? I have raised 1000's in a set-up similar to what I posted above and always have my lights down inside the Bigger than this plastic tote(just for info I have raised many more 1000's in thermostat controlled factory brooders that have incandesent bulbs as a back-up or extra heat if needed) without ever a problem-----so I am curious???

 

[Stephine]

I go along with your post except for this part, but want to get your reason for saying this?? I have raised 1000's in a set-up similar to what I posted above and always have my lights down inside the Bigger than this plastic tote(just for info I have raised many more 1000's in thermostat controlled factory brooders that have incandesent bulbs as a back-up or extra heat if needed) without ever a problem-----so I am curious??? 

Hi PD Riverman! My reason for this is that the bulb gets very hot and a) the chicks could touch it and singe their fluff during a food chase or pecking order tiff, b) they can scratch the bedding and pile it up under the lamp while searching for spilled feed in the shavings which increases fire danger, c) it increases the chances that dirt of sorts touches the bulb, or sticks to the bulb, shortening the life of the bulb, finally - you see in the picture- no one is lying under the light (because it is too warm) so you are effectively taking away brooder space. Does that make sense? I think for me the burning issue is the most important one (though losing a bulb is a serious issue as well if it goes unnoticed for too long).

 

[PD-Riverman]

Hi PD Riverman! My reason for this is that the bulb gets very hot and a) the chicks could touch it and singe their fluff during a food chase or pecking order tiff, b) they can scratch the bedding and pile it up under the lamp while searching for spilled feed in the shavings which increases fire danger, c) it increases the chances that dirt of sorts touches the bulb, or sticks to the bulb, shortening the life of the bulb, finally - you see in the picture- no one is lying under the light (because it is too warm) so you are effectively taking away brooder space. Does that make sense? I think for me the burning issue is the most important one (though losing a bulb is a serious issue as well if it goes unnoticed for too long).

That's fine---you do what you feel you need to do. I agree his light is a little low in the pic that's why I said "similar" Need to check the temp under the light. I have about 10 of these back-up set-ups(use when the thermostat controlled ones are filled) and mine is real similar. I never have any of the problems you mentioned so I am good!! I mainly keep them low for 2 reasons---I can use a less wattage bulb(makes a difference when you are running 25 +/- brooders some times at one time) and I only heat a small section of the brooder and the chicks do good. I might do less bedding than some----I do not do the deep bedding---a very thin layer of bedding is used and I change it often/as needed. So that would stop any pile ups under the light, plus the lower wattage bulbs are not as hot so I never have a scorched feather problem. I do change out the bulbs with new ones and use the still good one I take out in brooders that use a bulb as extra heat or in some thermostat controlled brooders that have more than one bulb----sure would not want a bulb to go out on a cold night. Thanks.

 

[lazy gardener]

Eliminate the whole hassle about heat lamps and use the much safer heating pad cave brooder. I am brooding 46 chicks, using 2 pads that are 12 x 24, outdoors. But the HP system works equally well in a house. The chicks use it just like they would a broody hen, they self regulate their heat needs, they wean themselves from heat without intervention, and they are adjusted to day night cycles from day one instead of living with a lamp shining on them 24/7.

 

[PD-Riverman]

Eliminate the whole hassle about heat lamps and use the much safer heating pad cave brooder. I am brooding 46 chicks, using 2 pads that are 12 x 24, outdoors. But the HP system works equally well in a house. The chicks use it just like they would a broody hen, they self regulate their heat needs, they wean themselves from heat without intervention, and they are adjusted to day night cycles from day one instead of living with a lamp shining on them 24/7.

I agree---there is a better way, even though I do not have any problem at all with my hanging light back-up brooders---none. I still had rather use the factory brooders with heat strips, thermostat controlled. I even have home-made thermostat controlled hovers that use 3 smaller bulbs---2 cycle on and off with the thermostat, one small bulb stays on 24/7 and they work great---but most do not have that or the heat pads. So I try to help the chicks from those deadly heat lamps when I feel I see a problem. I also have Never heard of a house/coop being burned down with those heating pad/hover type brooders either---for sure a lot safer!!

 

[Stephine]

That's fine---you do what you feel you need to do. I agree his light is a little low in the pic that's why I said "similar" Need to check the temp under the light. I have about 10 of these back-up set-ups(use when the thermostat controlled ones are filled) and mine is real similar. I never have any of the problems you mentioned so I am good!! I mainly keep them low for 2 reasons---I can use a less wattage bulb(makes a difference when you are running 25 +/- brooders some times at one time) and I only heat a small section of the brooder and the chicks do good. I might do less bedding than some----I do not do the deep bedding---a very thin layer of bedding is used and I change it often/as needed. So that would stop any pile ups under the light, plus the lower wattage bulbs are not as hot so I never have a scorched feather problem.  I do change out the bulbs with new ones and use the still good one I take out in brooders that use a bulb as extra heat or in some thermostat controlled brooders that have more than one bulb----sure would not want a bulb to go out on a cold night. Thanks.

PD Riverman - you are a pro. I totally respect what you do - though the light bulb this close would still wirry me (though I admit I haven't touched a 25W bulb in action, should try that to see... ) The poster is a newby. Big difference. You don't know bedding and bulb specifics etc. I think in this case simpler is better - and safer.

Eliminate the whole hassle about heat lamps and use the much safer heating pad cave brooder.  I am brooding 46 chicks, using 2 pads that are 12 x 24, outdoors.  But the HP system works equally well in a house.  The chicks use it just like they would a broody hen, they self regulate their heat needs, they wean themselves from heat without intervention, and they are adjusted to day night cycles from day one instead of living with a lamp shining on them 24/7.

Lazy G. , I really think for a person new at this a bulb is easier and safer. I know the mhp is popular, but the set up is more complicated and there are some drawbacks with that method, too (need to make sure chicks don't get trapped, hard to see chicks under it to monitor, top will get soiled, etc...) . I think it's fine for someone new to this to just start with the simplest set up. It's good for the chicks to have a red light for 48 continuous hrs at the beginning if they have been shipped. After that, one can go with a heat emitter bulb if one wants - I have one - to have the chicks sleep through the night. But I feel bulbs allow a bit more room for error and are easier to set up and adjust as chicks grow, so they are better for someone just starting out.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Yes, you are here for help. Instead of trying to make you feel guilty or trying to convince you to just scrap everything and do it one certain way, I’ll try to help you with a method that has been very successful for over 100 years. There are many different ways to provide heat to chicks. They all have their benefits and limitations, there are wrong way and right ways for any of them. But they are all successful is used correctly.

The basic idea with a brooder should be to keep one area warm enough in the coolest conditions and an area cool enough in the warmest conditions. I assume you are brooding in your house which means you should have pretty steady temperatures to work with.

There is no perfect temperature for chicks. They can handle a pretty wide range of temperatures, just like you can. Some prefer it cooler, some warmer than others but they are not going to die if the temperature is off a bit. Too much heat is more dangerous than too little though. What you want to avoid is to have the entire brooder too warm. As long as one end is warm enough it doesn’t matter how cold the far end is. Straight out of the incubator or from the post office, chicks are really good at self-regulating as long as they have a range so they can do that. During the first two or three days mine tend to spend a lot of time in the warmer area but after that they roam into some fairly cool areas, just going back to warm up when they need to.

I haven’t used a thermometer for many years but for someone just starting out they are a fairly good idea just to help your confidence. Put the thermometer directly under the lamp on the floor where it is the hottest. How warm do you want the warmest spot? I don’t know. If you are in a place with constant temperatures like in your house I’d not want it above 90. Anything warmer than that and it is warmer than it needs to be. Overheating them is my biggest concern. As long as the chicks are happy I don’t have a minimum acceptable temperature. If they’re OK at 75 degrees, I’m OK at 75. Your chicks will tell you if they are too cold.

Then check the farthest spot. How much cooler should it be? I don’t know as long as it is cooler. My 3’ x 6’ brooder in the coop sometimes has ice on the far end. It doesn’t matter how much as long as it is cooler. They will find their comfort zone as long as they have a range to work with.

As I said, the first couple of days they will probably hang under the heat quite a bit, but after a few days what you want is for them to be scattered when they ae awake. It’s normal for mine to sleep in a group pretty near the heat, even after a few weeks so don’t be too concerned about that. But during the day SueT’s chart is pretty good. If they are as close to the heat as they can get it’s too cold. If they are lined up against the far wall they are too hot.

Since you have a heat lamp, I strongly agree with securing it so it cannot fall or accidentally be knocked down. I throw away the clamp that comes with it as I consider that an accident waiting to happen. I secure mine with wire, not string that can melt or burn. You sure don’t want it to fall and start a fire or burn your chicks.

There are a few ways you can control the heat. One is to use different wattage bulbs. I personally like the red ones but for over 100 years people have been raising chicks with regular white incandescent bulbs. People will tell you all kinds of reasons why that won’t work, but they have been successfully used for over 100 years. Another way is to raise or lower the lamp. How you do that is up to you, just make sure it is very secure. Another way is to focus the light. If you put that lamp on the end of the brooder so you direct part of the heat inside the brooder and part of the heat outside you can reduce the heat going in. My concern with this is that if it is too close to the plastic on top, it might melt the plastic. If you go this route be a bit careful. Some people use a dimmer so they can adjust the heat with the turn of a dial.

Another trick to give them a cooler spot is to put a wall halfway across the brooder. Give them something to hide behind so they can get out of the direct heat. To me the best thing is to have a large enough brooder to start with. Having enough room just makes the whole chicken keeping process so much easier at any age.

There are different kinds of chirping. They may just be happy, they may be a bit nervous in a new spot, things like that are no big deal. But there is one that is a concern, the plaintive chirp. It’s a soul rending type of chirp, you know something is wrong when you hear it. The regular chirps are sort of random: chirp.. chirp chirp…chirp. The plaintive chirp is regular and steady: chirp..chirp..chirp..chirp, it’s really hard to misinterpret. Once you hear it you will know it.

One requirement in any brooder is good ventilation for different reasons. One is that the brooder cannot cool off if it doesn’t have good ventilation. That was an innovative way to provide ventilation with your cover but it is not easy for you to heat one end of that brooder and let the rest cool down. You might want to rethink that.

I’ve seen two week old chicks fly 2 feet vertical and 3 feet horizontal. It’s amazing how fast they grow and develop. You do need some type of cover over the brooder or they will soon be escaping. For ventilation purposes some kind of wire mesh is a good choice.

A lot of people are successfully raising chicks in those plastic bins or aquariums with heat lamps right now. They have been for many years. They are usually successful, even if they don’t follow everything I’ve said. Those chicks are incredibly tough. Broody hens raise chicks in temperatures below freezing. They raise chicks in temperatures well above 100 F. But those broody hens normally have a lot of room to work with. When we raise them in small restricted areas we need to be careful to not overheat them, give them an escape to a cooler area. If you can do that they can manage quite well.

Good luck!