Wanting to get rabbits any tips???

I'm not sure anyone said he (or anyone else) had to get pedigreed rabbits. And you're absolutely right: a pedigree is simply tracing back three generations. And yes, any unethical farmer can fill in a pedigree with any information he/she wants, but that person won't be in the rabbit business for long. Just like you, I have non-pedigreed rabbits, who are some of my strongest producers. I have pedigreed rabbits that are shown. I mix them both for a variety of reasons.

What I've never heard a rabbitry say is "start with substandard stock and hope for the best." I love rabbits, and my rabbitry is a great addition to the homestead as well as a source of homesteading stability and sustainability. There's a lot of good advice in this thread, but it's ultimately just that: advice. Take it or leave it or ignore it. I've objected to some of the tone here that is dismissive of some of the experience on the thread, but that's my own issue.

Your rabbit, by the way, is absolutely lovely.

Thank you. She is a very pretty girl which is why I am working to fix the crazy instead of get rid of her. I think her offspring will be very good to take to fairs and shows in the future once I have finished building up my lines.

What I was trying to say is that one's goals as a breeder or rabbit keeper may have nothing to do with how a rabbit is sold, pedigreed, whether the rabbitry is registered or how much the rabbit costs, etc. If someone were going right into show it'd make sense to have all those things... But my best and oldest production doe that produces kits with an 82% dressage ratio, 4-5lbs at 10 weeks, and consistently has litters of 7-9 is a non-pedigreed, non-show quality, not even very good looking for the breed (kind of longer and lower, not very compact) doe with no background on her I got for $15 off of CL. She is low, long and what people would call a poor quality rabbit looking at her... In a pedigreed, show, ARBA, etc herd she would have been culled years ago. But given that her kits consistently dress out to crazy numbers, I call her one of my best rabbits and I will work with what I was given. (Several kits from multiple litters dressed out from just under 4lbs live to a flat 3lb carcass, plus livers which I didn't weigh.) (Mind, I don't sell the kits as SQ or anything, just really good quality producers! One of her kits is in my herd right now and had 11 in her second litter!) Considering I expected to get lucky if I got rabbits that had 6 kits regularly, I got a great deal!
The nice thing about rabbits is that meat is meat and unless your rabbits won't reproduce/care for the litters then it's hard to screw up getting meat out of a rabbit! And one can always cross the getting stock with certain traits (such as peds, SQ, etc) bridge later if they feel the need once they have some experience under their belt. Kind of like getting a mutt pet dog before ever trying to breed something purebred. And rabbits, of course, typically reproduce like rabbits. :3 So unless someone gets a bunch of rabbits and proclaims they're SQ rabbits without knowing even what that means there shouldn't be a problem. Just know what you've got if they're good stock or have no idea and say so.

~~Chicken farmer; I do agree that crocks for water suck, though! :( Even in freezing temps like Ohio got this year, I cling to my water bottles like a leech. I will never use water crocks again... I also agree that the rabbit doesn't need the salt/mineral blocks if it's on pellets. One buck we have would not stop eating salt blocks no matter what... He was going through like a whole 32oz water bottle a day and he's a mini lop (pet)! We just took his salt away in the end... He doesn't need 'em.

I would get your rabbits some long-strand grass hays if I were you. See if your feed store has orchardgrass or timothy bales. Alfalfa is very high in calcium but could make a good high-calorie treat that's also high fiber. He does look a little malnourished and getting him up to weight and condition will mean good quality feed and lots of fiber and water! A malnourished buck won't breed. Feed him as much hay as he will eat and give a rationed (but lots of) high protein (16%+) pellet every day; he will get his condition back soon enough. If you wanna feed veggies, go slow and feed one fruit/veggie at a time until he's used to getting them regularly in case something upsets his tummy, that way you can stop fast. The last thing you need in a malnourished rabbit is an upset stomach!
 
Thank you. She is a very pretty girl which is why I am working to fix the crazy instead of get rid of her. I think her offspring will be very good to take to fairs and shows in the future once I have finished building up my lines.

What I was trying to say is that one's goals as a breeder or rabbit keeper may have nothing to do with how a rabbit is sold...
The nice thing about rabbits is that meat is meat and unless your rabbits won't reproduce/care for the litters then it's hard to screw up getting meat out of a rabbit! And one can always cross the getting stock with certain traits (such as peds, SQ, etc) bridge later if they feel the need once they have some experience under their belt. Kind of like getting a mutt pet dog before ever trying to breed something purebred. And rabbits, of course, typically reproduce like rabbits. :3 So unless someone gets a bunch of rabbits and proclaims they're SQ rabbits without knowing even what that means there shouldn't be a problem. Just know what you've got if they're good stock or have no idea and say so.


I would get your rabbits some long-strand grass hays if I were you. See if your feed store has orchardgrass or timothy bales. Alfalfa is very high in calcium but could make a good high-calorie treat that's also high fiber. He does look a little malnourished and getting him up to weight and condition will mean good quality feed and lots of fiber and water! A malnourished buck won't breed. Feed him as much hay as he will eat and give a rationed (but lots of) high protein (16%+) pellet every day; he will get his condition back soon enough. If you wanna feed veggies, go slow and feed one fruit/veggie at a time until he's used to getting them regularly in case something upsets his tummy, that way you can stop fast. The last thing you need in a malnourished rabbit is an upset stomach!

Well said. My top producer also is a non-pedigreed rabbit. She just kingled a litter of 9 Friday morning, and all her other litters have been double digits. I have two lines. And depending on what someone is looking for, I help them decide which rabbit is best for them. If someone is looking for straight meat production on a homestead, I'll absolutely suggest one of the non-pedigreed kits, some of which I keep and raise to adulthood for that purpose. If someone is looking for show-quality rabbits, I have a pedigreed line that comes from a couple well-known breeders here. Their litters produce prettier kits, but smaller litters (5-7 on average).

Like you said, as long as you know what you've got, and you sell them as that, then it's hard to go wrong.

Re: hay. My feed store only sells timothy by the full bale, which for one or two rabbits is a ton. They did finally start carrying 15-pound bags of it, which fill a 25-gallon galvanized can fully. The point being, you might have to ask specifically for something that works for you, but it IS out there. A feed store is definitely your best bet.
 
I buy my hay bales 40#s each a dozen at a time. I use them as bedding and they are a major part of my feeding routine so I go through a lot! I just put them on pallets in my garage and cover them with a tarp and an old sheet to prevent sun bleaching and leaching of nutrients. Hay stores really well if you just keep it off the ground and cover it!
 
my best and oldest production doe that produces kits with an 82% dressage ratio, 4-5lbs at 10 weeks, and consistently has litters of 7-9 is a non-pedigreed, non-show quality, not even very good looking for the breed (kind of longer and lower, not very compact) doe with no background on her I got for $15 off of CL. She is low, long and what people would call a poor quality rabbit looking at her.
Whether by accident or design, you have here one of the great conundrums of the meat rabbit. Old timers have said for many years that the long-bodied rabbits are the producers; yet the breed standard calls for the shorter loin and more compact body. Go figure!
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I'm curious about the OP's buck - any idea how old he is? I understand he was in dreadful condition before the previous owners got him; it takes a while to get into that shape. He isn't like that now; clearly, the immediately previous owner(s) had him for a while, too, to have gotten him cleaned up and socialized. It doesn't take very long to get weight back on a healthy, vigorous rabbit, but an older rabbit may never get to good flesh condition, no matter how much you feed it. The only reason I bring this up, is that fertility decreases with age in both the does and the bucks. A lot of bucks past the age of 5 are "shooting blanks." If you have trouble getting kits from this animal, it may be that he's just too old to be useful.
hmm.png
 
Whether by accident or design, you have here one of the great conundrums of the meat rabbit. Old timers have said for many years that the long-bodied rabbits are the producers; yet the breed standard calls for the shorter loin and more compact body. Go figure!
th.gif



I'm curious about the OP's buck - any idea how old he is? I understand he was in dreadful condition before the previous owners got him; it takes a while to get into that shape. He isn't like that now; clearly, the immediately previous owner(s) had him for a while, too, to have gotten him cleaned up and socialized. It doesn't take very long to get weight back on a healthy, vigorous rabbit, but an older rabbit may never get to good flesh condition, no matter how much you feed it. The only reason I bring this up, is that fertility decreases with age in both the does and the bucks. A lot of bucks past the age of 5 are "shooting blanks." If you have trouble getting kits from this animal, it may be that he's just too old to be useful.
hmm.png
They think around 3 years,and if he is a bad breeder when it comes time I get my doe and let them get use to there new home and it comes time I will probably sell him as a meat rabbit
 
They think around 3 years,and if he is a bad breeder when it comes time I get my doe and let them get use to there new home and it comes time I will probably sell him as a meat rabbit
Fingers crossed! It's hard to tell on the age. It looks like he's past his prime, but time will tell.

As to selling him as a meat rabbit, I'd suggest you process him (if it comes to that), and try out a pressure-cooker recipe. At that age, he'd definitely be a broiler, and a lot of people might balk at that. Of course, a lot of my clients actually prefer the older rabbits, because they think they're more flavorful. Go figure. :)

And yes, the longer, leaner rabbits in my rabbitry definitely are the bigger producers! Here's a pic I snapped today of one of my foundation does. She's due to kindle in 2 weeks.

And this is the buck she was mated with:



And here are a couple kits from their last litter (7 weeks +1 day old):

 

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