waterdog turned salamander

Offer it food every day. Do not feed it mealworms, they will plug him up and colic him, an agonizing death.

Your raw meat, cooked meat (any meats work other than processed lunch meat, salty type stuff), egg yolk, earthworms, perhaps snails and a variety of insects such as moths, spiders, crickets and stuff that flies to your porch light will be relished by the little girl or guy.
 
When I had turtles it was better to feed them crickets and minnows rather than raw meat, because the critters have calcium and keratin that the turtles needed for strong bones & shell. I know the salamander has no shell, but I'll bet the crickets and bugs would be better for him anyway than the ground beef.

Is he strictly in water? Maybe you can make him a terrarium-type set up so the crickets have a little ground to live on? Then he could self feed on them when he wanted, and earthworms, too.
Plus, don't salamanders come on land part of the time?
 
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Some things I found:
http://members.chello.nl/a.kente/salamanders-english-Feeding-and-housing.htm

What do salamanders eat?

W e l c o m e a t A l e x ' s s a l a m a n d e r s h e d y o u r s i t e f o r s a l a m a n d e r s ! ! ! ! !

The answer to that question depends of the age of the salamander. How younger the salamander, how smaller the food. In most of the cases the larf eats his own eggchell and lives the first week of micro-organisms called 'infuus' that lives in water what is already in culture (pond water). After a week the larf starts eating small animals, such as little daphnids or cyclopsen. After two weeks they like larger daphnids and after three or four weeks they are large enough for tubifex or red mosquito larvae. After six up to eight weeks they eat the same as the adult animals, only smaller formats.

Adult salamanders at the water stage eat also the aforesaid food animals completed with rainworms, maggots, and mysis.

Adult salamanders at the country stage eat almost everything what crawls and smaller is than themselves, like fruit flies, spiders, rainworms, maggots, springtails, flour maggots and buffaloworms. Also you can offer them red mosquito larvae on a wet tissue.

http://sleep1937.tripod.com/id13.html

Feeding

By nature, newts and salamanders have a carnivorous dietary habit; they eat insects, worms, slugs and fish as well as other smaller amphibians when times are tough.
A balanced diet of live foods is probably the healthiest option. Some nutritious and readily available live foods include: crickets, feeder fish (guppies, goldfish, etc.), houseflies and worms (tubifex, bloodworms, earthworms, nightcrawlers). Waxworms are also easily accessible, however they should only be served as an extra special treat since they contain a high proportion of fat, small chunks of frozen brine shrimp or beefheart may also be offered once in a while.
Like people, different newts prefer different foods; it may be necessary to sample a few different kinds of food to determine which fit the newt's fancy. Although my newts preffer live food and insects, they also love repto-min floating sticks, but one of them really hates bloodworms... Since newts don't chew their food, large food items must be chopped into smaller bits prior to feeding, also repto-min sticks, because they are also intended for larger reptiles and amphibians like african frogs and turtules.


when to feed

News and salamanders don't need to be fed on a daily basis. in fact three times a week is perfectly adequate. At mealtime, allow a newt to eat as much as it will take. Most newts take as much as they need and will turn away from food if they aren't interested. Don't be alarmed if a newt decides not to eat for a week, one meal may go a long way! If a newt stops eating for a long period of time and becomes gaunt, it is probably ill. if all your newts stop eating at the same time for a very long time, they might not be comfertable in their surroundings!

how to feed

Merely tossing a food item into the tank with a newt or salamander is an ineffective feeding method. The food item might not be located or even sensed when this method is used. A better method to feed newts requires some patience and a pair of forceps or tweezers. The first couple times this method is used it may not work, mainly because the newt needs awhile to become accustomed. The first step is to choose a food item to feed the newt. Using the tweezers, grip the food item, and the newt or salamander is in underwater, hold the food item in front of its nostrils (if the newt's head is dry, gently drip a couple drops of water on its head). Soon, the newt should smell and/or see the food and begin to take interest, at this point it may tilt its head or move a bit closer. If the newt likes what it sees and smells, he'll grab that food item before you know it!
 
Almost certainly he is in the genus Ambystoma (google for more info), possibly Ambystoma tigrinum but there are other possibilities, for one thing it depends where the bait store gets theirs caught from. (They are almost certainly wild-caught or from wild-caught egg masses, not captive bred). Newt larvae are too small to make decent fish bait.

I dealt with Ambystoma larvae some in my grad school work, and most of the rest of the lab I was in worked *on* Ambystoma species, the eastern ones (this was in NC).

THe adults are terrestrial, mostly burrowing in the shallow layers of the soil, eating small arthropods and worms. They can be kept alive for a reasonable amount of time in captivity but they cannot be kept *well* in captivity - the best you can do is a large flat rubbermaid tub with damp soil and moss and 'woodland debris', kept in a cool cellar or fridge. (They do not do well with warm temperatures, plus they need less food at lower temps).

Normally I would say 'release it if possible' but I'm not going to because, having gone through a bait sales environment, there is a reasonable chance that it is now carrying any of a variety of exciting fungal or bacterial diseases that can be a very serious problem if introduced into a wild population that previously lacked 'em. So I would suggest you either use it as fish bait, honestly (sorry
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), or give it as decent a home as you can for as long as you can. You can roll logs in the forest to catch very small insects/arthropods/worms to chuck into the rubbermaid tub with it. Make sure the environment stays damp but not soggy or wet, and if you see any sign of mold or anything funky, change out the entire contents *at once*.

Good luck,

Pat
 
I had a tiger salamander for a while that our dogs had been harassing in the yard. I fed him live crickets and he just loved them. He also loved live mealworms. He wouldn't eat anything dead and couldn't eat nightcrawlers or anything else that large.
 
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I thought the same thing but I read online that mealworms have too much creatin (i am sure i spelled that wrong) Anyway it supposedly plugs them up over time.
 
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THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU ALL
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I just knew you guys would come through for me once again. I really wasn't lazy. I tried for quite a while online to find out how often but everything just said what to feed and not how often to feed.

So after reading everything from you guys I have decided that a good helping once every other day sounds good to me. These creatures are very slow but really cute in a weird sort of way lol.

One person asked if it lives in water....the waterdogs live in water and if you keep them cold they won't change to a salamander. I have my waterdog turned salamander in a big round flat tank thing with substrate built up on one side so he can go in and out of the water as he wishes.

Again thank you all for taking the time to read this and help me and my little amphibian friend out.
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They get tame quite quickly
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Mine would eat mealworms from my hand after a couple of weeks.
 

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