Weight and types of feed

trafficgal

In the Brooder
5 Years
Apr 19, 2014
61
2
43
How much should a hen weigh? I lost a hen last month she was all skin and bones, I'm really worried about 2 other hens (who are having feather/skin issues, different symptoms then the hen I lost but I'm terrified!) I picked one up today and she felt lighter then I would have thought she should be... I know she is eating though I watch on and off all day, she runs over for treats also, they get a 16% protein feed (dumor I think is the brand its the generic from Tractor Supply) I have 3 feeders always with food in them so they have plenty to choose from plus they have a nice size run that they spend most of the day in scratching and nibbling the ground. Plus my kids pick dandalions and throw those in, I started giving scrambled eggs or oatmeal a few times a week plus they get our scraps. (no dairy, or meat or poultry though)

So I guess my question is, 1) how much should chickens weigh and how do I tell if they have enough weight on them (I have australoups and barred rocks and 2 easter eggers its the Australoups that are looking not so great)

2) is there a difference between the generic and name brand feeds?
 
Individual birds will vary from ideal weights, but feeling each bird and maybe weighing them periodically will be helpful. Birds hide signs of illness as long as possible, and only a necropsy would tell you why your hen died. Checking for parasites is important, and worming or treating for mites or lice if present. I feed Purina, not the Dumor, because it seems higher quality to me. I also had poor experiences with locally milled feeds, and haven't yet tried any of the new organic diets that are popping up everywhere. Good laying hens will not be fat, but there's a difference between thin and too thin. Mary
 
I have never wormed my flock how do I do that but still beable to eat the eggs?
 
I have never wormed my flock how do I do that but still beable to eat the eggs?


I usually recommend Valbazen for the first worming, but it's a 10 day withdrawl period with two doses. If you have a way to segregate the flock or have multiple color eggs, you can deworm half the flock, then the other half after the withdrawl period is up.
 
Do most people deworm their hens each year? seems a really long time to loose eggs, is it necessary?
 
I didn't treat my birds for many years, but then had a BIG problem, and since then have used Ivermectin once or twice a year, for internal and external parasites. It's not approved for chickens, but very few products are, and it has worked for me. Having fecals checked at your veterinarian's office is helpful, so you aren't treating something that's not there. Mary
 
Do most people deworm their hens each year? seems a really long time to loose eggs, is it necessary?
You can try a natural deworming method first to see if it helps, and you can still eat the eggs. DE isn't always 100%, and seems to work better as a preventative than a complete dewormer, but it does work very well. Mix food grade DE in with the feed and treats. DE isn't harmful in anyway, but can be irritating to lungs of mammals if it is allowed to get dusty/blow around. DE also works good rubbed into their feathers/down to control fleas, mites etc. Its a mechanical pesticide made of ground up fossilized plancton. Best way to think of it is microscopic razor wire, due to its small size it wont hurt the cells of any mammal, but will cut up the shell/body/exoskeleton of insects causing them to die of dehydration. If you have a really bad worm problem DE might not be 100% effective, but its a good start, and mixed in with the feed and with the dust bath area will help be a strong preventative treatment going forward.
 
In my opinion the best time to do an annual deworming with an actual chemical is during a birds molting phase. Otherwise use of DE in the feed on a routine basis has kept it in check. During that annual deworming during the molt i usually see very few if any worms expelled.
 

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