What are the 1 or 2 most important things you would tell me for my new coop?

My first suggestion is to not crowd them. Give them as much space as reasonable in the coop, run, brooder, nests, and roosts. Don’t do the minimums on any of these. I find the more I crowd them the more behavioral problems I have to deal with, the less flexibility I have to deal with issues, and the harder I have to work. Why make your life harder than it has to be by squeezing them anywhere?

The next thing is to build in flexibility. Things never work out exactly as you plan. You will be back in there adding things and changing things until you get it the way you want it. So stay flexible in your thinking. By building in flexibility I mean that you give yourself some options in how you manage them. I sometimes need to isolate a chicken or such. I made my nests so I can lock a chicken in there if I want to, that’s come in handy in many ways. I built my brooder into the coop, an elevated brooder with a wire floor. The top acts as a droppings board. With a wire floor it can be used as a broody buster. When I have chicks in there I insert something to give them a solid floor. I can isolate adults in there if I need to, and sometimes I do. Since I integrate younger chickens a lot I put an extra roost, lower than the main roost and horizontally separated but higher than the nests to give the younger chickens a safe place to roost that is not my nests. That’s actually over my nests. The flat nest tops act as a droppings board. A lot of this depends on how you manage your chickens, your goals, and your flock make-up. In a 10’ x 20 you have a lot of room to be flexible, so you are in good shape, but some built-in place to isolate a chicken is really handy.

Realize that we are all unique. There are so many variables in our goals, climate, rural versus urban, flock make-up, and our facilities that what works for one will not work for another. There is a big difference in someone keeping four hens in a small urban back yard in Florida versus someone having a flock with many hens and roosters in the country in Ontario. One of your biggest challenges on here when you see a suggestion or recommendation from me or anyone else is whether that actually fits your unique situation. There are a lot of different people on here with a lot of experience in different circumstances. Not everything applies to everyone.

Don’t believe magic numbers with anything to do with chickens. That includes coop space, run area, roost length, brooder space, hen to rooster ratio, hen to nest ratio, temperatures in a brooder, really anything. Consider most of what you see as guidelines, a starting spot for someone with no experience but don’t consider them absolute laws of nature. I’ve seen recommendations on coop space anywhere from 1 square feet per chicken to 16, sometimes considering run space, sometimes not. Which number is really the magic one? How big of a brooder do you need? Are the chicks moving out at 4 weeks or are you keeping in there until they are practically grown? There are so many variables with all of these that there is no real magic number that covers all of us in all conditions.

I’ll add one more and quit. If anyone on here, me or anyone else, ever comes across as you absolutely have to do something the way I tell you or civilization as we know it will forever be altered, get a second opinion. I regularly integrate five-week-old brooder raised chicks with my adult flock with no problems. Some people will tell you that you have to wait until they are 16 weeks to do that. I don’t but for some people and their unique circumstances 16 weeks might be the right answer, five weeks could lead to disaster. That’s an example of trying to match the recommendations to your unique situation.

I’ve probably made it sound harder or more complicated than it really is. There are so many different options that can work that it seems hard. You are probably going to do fine. Good luck!
 
My first suggestion is to not crowd them. Give them as much space as reasonable in the coop, run, brooder, nests, and roosts. Don’t do the minimums on any of these. I find the more I crowd them the more behavioral problems I have to deal with, the less flexibility I have to deal with issues, and the harder I have to work. Why make your life harder than it has to be by squeezing them anywhere?

The next thing is to build in flexibility. Things never work out exactly as you plan. You will be back in there adding things and changing things until you get it the way you want it. So stay flexible in your thinking. By building in flexibility I mean that you give yourself some options in how you manage them. I sometimes need to isolate a chicken or such. I made my nests so I can lock a chicken in there if I want to, that’s come in handy in many ways. I built my brooder into the coop, an elevated brooder with a wire floor. The top acts as a droppings board. With a wire floor it can be used as a broody buster. When I have chicks in there I insert something to give them a solid floor. I can isolate adults in there if I need to, and sometimes I do. Since I integrate younger chickens a lot I put an extra roost, lower than the main roost and horizontally separated but higher than the nests to give the younger chickens a safe place to roost that is not my nests. That’s actually over my nests. The flat nest tops act as a droppings board. A lot of this depends on how you manage your chickens, your goals, and your flock make-up. In a 10’ x 20 you have a lot of room to be flexible, so you are in good shape, but some built-in place to isolate a chicken is really handy.

Realize that we are all unique. There are so many variables in our goals, climate, rural versus urban, flock make-up, and our facilities that what works for one will not work for another. There is a big difference in someone keeping four hens in a small urban back yard in Florida versus someone having a flock with many hens and roosters in the country in Ontario. One of your biggest challenges on here when you see a suggestion or recommendation from me or anyone else is whether that actually fits your unique situation. There are a lot of different people on here with a lot of experience in different circumstances. Not everything applies to everyone.

Don’t believe magic numbers with anything to do with chickens. That includes coop space, run area, roost length, brooder space, hen to rooster ratio, hen to nest ratio, temperatures in a brooder, really anything. Consider most of what you see as guidelines, a starting spot for someone with no experience but don’t consider them absolute laws of nature. I’ve seen recommendations on coop space anywhere from 1 square feet per chicken to 16, sometimes considering run space, sometimes not. Which number is really the magic one? How big of a brooder do you need? Are the chicks moving out at 4 weeks or are you keeping in there until they are practically grown? There are so many variables with all of these that there is no real magic number that covers all of us in all conditions.

I’ll add one more and quit. If anyone on here, me or anyone else, ever comes across as you absolutely have to do something the way I tell you or civilization as we know it will forever be altered, get a second opinion. I regularly integrate five-week-old brooder raised chicks with my adult flock with no problems. Some people will tell you that you have to wait until they are 16 weeks to do that. I don’t but for some people and their unique circumstances 16 weeks might be the right answer, five weeks could lead to disaster. That’s an example of trying to match the recommendations to your unique situation.

I’ve probably made it sound harder or more complicated than it really is. There are so many different options that can work that it seems hard. You are probably going to do fine. Good luck!

X2 It may seem like you have to do it everyone else's way but you don't everyone throwing their ideas at you gives you a ton of options that you can pick from to do your own coop the way you like it, I suggested the poop board over the nest boxes that way you wouldn't have to worry about them trying to roost on top of your nest boxes, they will given half a chance:).
 
Hey Ccrow,
Liked your post. I am new to all this, but am starting to have a blast, I bought 20 baby chicks last autumn and they are now producing eggs:)...SO I was having sooo much fun that I started to build a chicken hutch out of PALLETS...It is my chicken Taj Ma Hall...:) Yeah it is big and as tall as I am, even bigger. I have nine nesting boxes in there now, and layered it and the nests with hay, burmuda. I plan on doing the layering method, which is perfect for my busy life. I have made there feeder with a homedepot bucket and a $1.00 snack tray on the bottom, so the grain goes out in six different sides, the chickens love it. I stupidly made a waterer out of a homedepot bucket too, but duhhh, I drilled the two holes on the wrong side, and when I tried to put the lid on top, it was not a good seal, and so the water just kept coming out...oh well learn as we go. I will take pics of the hutch when it is all done, still doing things to it, Maggie
 
Well, you're going big, that's great!!

Think about creating a separate but adjacent space with separate people door and maybe separate run.
I built one in and wish I had room for one, or two, more....best design decision I made.
I've used it for growing out new chicks, isolating a rogue cockerel, a broody hen, more new chucks, an injured bird, and isolation for a few to pinpoint that certain egg.

I love my poop boards, but I have a willing recipient for all I sift off there.
Check out My Coop page.


I did not read all the posts.....but I'll throw this in.
There's a 'stack up' aspect to coop design:
Bottom of pop door should be about 8" above floor so bedding doesn't get dragged out of coop.
Nice to have bottom of nests about 18" above bedding to allow use of that floor space under them(doesn't count if your nests are mounted on outside of coop).
Roosts should be about 12" higher than nests so birds won't roost(sleep) in nests and poop in them.
Upper venting should be as high as possible above roosts so no strong drafts hit roosts in winter...and hot/moist air and ammonia can rise and exit coop.
 
1) Design your roosts so you can easily get to all the birds on them. Some of the best times to treat your birds, do exams, etc. will be after they've gone to bed!

2) Warm, moist air rises so the best ventilation strategies take this fact into consideration. A roof ridge vent is awesome if you have a gable roof style. If you have the slanted shed roof style, be sure that you have ventilation near the top of the high wall. And I second strategically placing all moisture-generating things (such as roosts) near these prime ventilation spots.

3) The ability to access your nestboxes from the outside of the coop/run means that you won't have to worry about getting poop on your shoes every time you go to collect eggs.

4) Having some sort of "airlock" for the people entrance means less chance of chickens escaping from their designated area.

5) If you think you might one day have more chickens than this coop will hold, incorporate plans for expansion into the coop design now rather than later.
 
Well, you're going big, that's great!!

Think about creating a separate but adjacent space with separate people door and maybe separate run.
I've used it for growing out new chicks, isolating a rogue cockerel, a broody hen, more new chucks, an injured bird, and isolation for a few to pinpoint that certain egg.
Just my 2cents. I agree if you have room, a separate area is ideal! Wish I had that, someday maybe... Atleast take time to think about what you will do WHEN, not if, you have an injured bird or one that is sick. If it's an injury, they generally can be placed in something like a large wire kennel (in the run/coop) so she can still "interact" with the flock while healing. If it's an illness such a respiratory/contagious, she would need to be separated completely. So having a plan in place will cause YOU less stress. This isn't necessarily "coop" related, I suppose, but also have a few basic first aid supplies on hand for your girls. Doesn't have to be elaborate, just some bluekote and/or plain neosporin, qtips, rubber gloves and scissors to start. Makes life easier if you have them stored where you can get to them easily.
Good luck!
smile.png
 
1. What are some of the most important things you've learned by trial and error?

Cut you pop door for the chickens about 8 to 12 inches above your floor.

A good rule of thumb in a perfect world:
Make your ramp twice as long as the drop which would give you a 6/12 pitch and an angle of 22.5º.
"A 4x4 block attached to the end of your ramp to make a step up will do a lot to reduce the slope also."



Nest boxes
In my nest boxes I fold a feed bag to fit (nest boxes are 1 ft³). When a bag gets soiled; fold a new one; pop out the soiled; pop in the new. Feed bags are a nylon mesh bag.
Frozen poop just peels off in below freezing temperatures and just flakes off in summer when left out in the sun to bake and dry.


I have 65 trips around the sun it is the best method I have stumbled upon.

Make sure the twine is removed from the open end of the bag it can get tangled around your birds.

 
The biggest thing I wish I had done is made the coop easier to clean. Having lips on the bottom of the doorframe (i don't really know how to describe it, but hopefully you can tell what I mean) can help keep bedding from falling out and making a mess, but it is a lot easier to clean if you can just rake out the bedding. Keep how you plan to clean the coop in your mind as you build and save yourself a lot of work. Another thing you should consider is you nestbox. It makes it so much easier if you can access this without going into the coop. I have an old kitchen cabinet we got from a thrift store. We cut a hole in the wall and put a latch on the cabinet door, and now when I go outside to close them up for the night it is very easy to get eggs.

I wish you the best of luck!
 

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