What Are Your Top 5 Picks For Medications To Have On Hand And Why?

[ThePamperedPullet]

Lensters
That's the way to do it.
Saves a lot of time and trouble but for us who pamper our birds that would only work if all else fails.

 

[threehorses]

Quote:
Well the one I listed was procaine (because that's what our stores here carry mainly), but the reason I prefer injectable over oral (most particularly in the case of the pen's) is to avoid unnecessary harshness to the gut. In either case, you probably don't want to use eggs as the Pen injectable still goes through their system. I also don't like to use it often, but I find it irreplaceable in the case of wounds. In fact, i was reading that with cat bites you should always use Pen - EVEN if you use Baytril because of the deadliness of pasteurella and pen's effectiveness towards it.

On my list, I worm twice annually with ivermectin. Fenbendazole aka SafeGuard, and Levamisole are another two good subs. But I like ivermectin's actions on external blood-taking parasites and its ease of use. (I hate having to give a med in the beak.) That's a prevention, but a necessary one.

Probios and other probiotics - I use those weekly for any bird under 5 months, and weekly during the first week of laying (though then I prefer plain yogurt), and I treat them with yogurt occassionally - any time I see more than the occassional funky poop. They're not at all medicines - they're just living bacteria. They replace the old method of using milk products that used to be done.

On the antibiotics, I only ever use if I know they're needed or if a bird very very likely has a bacterial issue of the exact type for which the antibiotics work. I find the veterinary version of drugs.com to be very helpful when making that call. I do so not really because I dislike any chance of antibiotics getting to humans, but mainly again because antibiotics are hard on the bird (just diseases are harder) and I don't want to risk not being able to use that antibiotic again for something.

The permethrin I'll also use at least once a year whether or not I need it - in the bedding during replacement time. I'll use ivermectin again if I have lice or mites (along with retreating the premises with permethrin dust). Or if I suspect worms - which never happens because I worm twice a year. Wellll I take that back - I was overdue on two hens this year, and then I DID suspect worms - and I wormed (mainly because we had a case of lice from, I suspect, a visiting buzzard or one of the goats) and they gained weight. I never saw a single worm. I doubt I ever will even if they have them. I learned from working at a vet that many animals have worms and will never shed one that we will ever find.

Otherwise I only use my other items if I have an injury. Mostly these days, because of quarantining, probiotics, and trying to keep a very closed flock, my Sulmet rarely gets used.

Oh since Lensters added axe and shovel, I'd add Lime ... if you ever have to bury one. So that way creatures don't dig them up.

 

[kathyinmo]

Thanks! I am learning so much. Honestly though, I thought I would just get a few chickens and have fresh eggs. Now, I am beginning to think .... THIS IS ALOT OF WORK!

 

[threehorses]

Quote:
AHhh really if you get the basics handled all the time, it's quite easy.


For me, the basics are:
Always feed 90% a complete age-appropriate food. It must smell fresh when I open the bag. If it smells like cardboard, I find a different supplier.
Raise babies on dry bedding and use medicated (amprolium only) feed.
Lots of fresh air and sunshine and good ventilation always.
Babies over 4 weeks get chick grit, adults always have granite grit and oyster shell available.
Any time I see any diarrhea, I give probiotics for a couple of days.
Water with nothing in it 99% of the time.
If I use grains (other than a handful of scratch scattered for entertainment) I use whole oats primarily (oats will hulls on from the feedstore, not oatmeal) then chops. Always less than 10% of their diet.
Dry but not dusty bedding. Keep all things dry.
Worm twice yearly, use natural stuff inbetween.
Examine birds requently (weekly) when growing at least, monthly as adults - no less than that often.
Quarantine everything new for over a month. Try to keep a closed flock instead.

 

[phoenixbantam]

Thanks everyone for the great tips!

 

[ThePamperedPullet]

I had hoped for a better turn out for this question. This will help others to know what to have on hand to keep their chickens healthy. Come on now, don't be affraid. You can post here too....

 

[PeepsInc]

OMG that one person has more stuff on hand than my vet does......One question, if you bought a chicken with an occasional cough(I think it's a cough,Maybe a sneeze) Other than yogurt and cider vinegar. What should I give it? I have penicillin on hand. I know I should cull it,but I have the 2 off by themselves, & I'd rather cure it than cull it. Any advice from you med connoisseurs?

 

[Brindlebtch]

You mean you use Cattle Ivermectin and just pour it on the chicken? How much or how much/pound?

 

[kathyinmo]

What about vaccinations? Should we have this on hand, aand if so, what vaccinations?

 

[threehorses]

I've never vaccinated - but this year is going to be the year of change.

Because we had such a horrible case of pox this year, I'm considering vaccinating against it from now on. At least in new turkeys. And in show birds (as one of my hens lost a spike on her comb from a pox scab).

Honestly because I had Marek's here, but always buy vaccinated stock, I'm also going to start vaccinating against Marek's with next spring's babies. There's a way to do it and booster. First State Vet's Dr. Peter Brown has a good article on that.