What do I need to gather to build this coop? No building skills!

[janieschicks]

I just need a rough idea what to be looking for as far as materials. I found a coop design from an ebay member. She was gracious enough to send me photos. This is perfect because I can add to them as needed. So for starters, I will start with one bungalow.
I think these are 4'x4'. I may need to make them a little bigger. ? Each one will house 5 silkie chicks. Any help as far as a material list would be greatly appreciated!

 

[patandchickens]

Hey, those are *cute*!

4x4 should be fine for 5 silkies, in combination with a run of course.

It looks to me like she has used cedar fenceposts (she seems to have 5-6" diameter, but 4" would be ok too) and scrap 2x6s from an old fence or barn or such, with a few 2x4s as braces on the door and doorway. The wire on the door is 1x2" HEAVY GAUGE galvanized wire. The roof appears to be shingles over plywood, with random pieces of 1x4 and 1x6 used as purlins.

If it were me I'd add a bit of diagonal bracing somewhere, since the walls are boards not plywood and thus don't provide any themselves -- but otherwise, that is one of the most attractive 4x4 coop designs I've seen, and probably pretty good'n' functional too since the purlins provide little ventilation spaces all around the roof edges.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[janieschicks]

Thanks pat! Any idea how long the fence boards should be that I need to gather? A lot of barns fell down in my area because of the heavy snow, so I need now is permission....and I can go hunting for wood!

 

[Intheswamp]

Those do look really nice and airy and a good use of recycled wood. The construction, though, is of a single structure with individual coop units joined together. The roof's driplines butting into each other create valleys that will have to channel the water off of the structure...I don't like that a bit. Seems that would possibly create a problem area that might give rot a good place to start and if not sealed *really* well then could possibly cause a problem with water infiltration into the coop. Individual, stand-alone coops of this type would be nice, but co-joined coops with those valleys bother me. ???

Best wishes,
Ed

 

[Intheswamp]

Quote:
You need a circular "skil" saw. Then just load up on the width and thickness that you need on boards that are at least 1x the length you need. Boards over 2x or 3x your needed length are good because you get 2-3 boards out of them and only have to haul/handle 1 board until you get to the construction phase...of course you have to have some way of hauling the longer boards.

Best wishes,
Ed

 

[janieschicks]

Thank you Ed! I have a pick up with 8 foot bed so that should be ok for hauling. How long is one length of board? Then I can cut it 2 or 3 times but how long should I start with so I can figure the length I need? Sorry, like I said no building skills at all but I'm going to learn!

 

[patandchickens]

The gable roof is fine for a single unit.

Honestly though, now that you bring it up Ed, not only is it a rather dysfunctional design for the "shedrow" thing she's got going there, it is also a giant big waste of time and material doing it that way. A shed roof, about a foot higher on the front (where the door is) than on the back, would be far cheaper and easier to build, and easier to add onto if you want to stick more units onto the row. And from a functional standpoint it would work as well or better. You might want a tad bit of purpose-built ventilation that way, but it'd be so *easy* to do, why not.

As far as what materials: just get the longest soundest boards you can easily transport, and if you have a choice get the ones with the fewest nails etc in 'em. Hers seem to be built from mostly 2' or shorter lengths for the siding (with some 4' ones for the main framing), so you will have lots of flexibility, but long boards mean less waste (ends, short cutoffs) than you get with short boards. SOUND is the most important thing though. Some old barn boards are in good shape, some are not. The lumber should still feel heavy and hard. Don't try to take apart old barns that were originally made with green oak boards, though, as you will not be able to and couldn't easily work with the wood if you *could* get it

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[elmo]

One other thing about the design: think about how you're going to be able to get in there and clean it out. The access door looks like it might be a tad small.

 

[janieschicks]

ummmmmm, I see what you mean. Here's a pic of the backside, I do think a single slant roof would be easier for a beginner.

 

[Intheswamp]

Oh yeah, there's *much* easier designs to build!!! A more simple shed type roof will be a lot easier and for a 4x4 coop could be built with hinges to allow lifting and easy access for major cleanouts, etc.,. Look at the coop designs here on BYC (link at top of page). There is several catagories of coops...check out the small ones. Lot's of good food for thought!

As for wood....grab wood that is 3/4"-1" for siding (1/2" will work, but might be more prone to warping) and 1.5"-2" thick for framing. Thicker, more square 3.5"x3.5" or bigger stuff is good for posts/legs. Look at the wood from different angles to keep from bringing home *really* crooked stuff. For the thinner siding boards it's definitely better to sight down the narrow edge being as this edge will be butted up against another piece and it's so much better if these pieces have straight edges. The bigger stuff is important, too, so look down one side, turn it and look down the other side. There's not going to be any perfect pieces (Lowes doesn't have perfect pieces, either) so don't stress to much over this.

While you're getting...some pieces of tin roofing might come in handy! And while you're around barns...what about that old welded wire fencing lying over there...."Farmer Brown, you want me to haul that old fencing off for you?"

Best wishes,
Ed