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Yes, this is true!
I incubated geese and chickens this year. I had a time of it with the geese. Not much success but it was worth it for the few I did get.
Ok, learn from my mistakes and DO NOT USE cheapy
walmart digital thermometer/hydrometer units. They were all off when tested and the high temps cost me dearly.
Instead, use 2 or 3 of the ones made for incubating that sit on top of the eggs and it has the red alcohol that rises. I have also found that using a wet bulb thermometer is much more accurate for testing humidity. You can buy one or use one of the incubating thermometers I already mentioned but have a shoelace wrapped around the bulb so it always touches. I just stapled it on and then set the other end of the shoelace in the water pan to wick water. Keep the pan full.
Write down what your temps and wet bulb readings should be and have it on a sticky note near your incubator.
I have a poultry book that recommends keeping the still air incubator at 100.5... no, that is too low. I lost 20 out of 25 and the few that hatched were 4 and 5 days LATE. Instead keep it closer to 102
Forced air at 99.5 is good though. I had good results with that bator. The incubator with the fan is worth the extra money... the egg turner is also awesome.
Um, have a way to add water to the incubator without opening it for hatch. I use a straw, funnel and electrical tape and add it through the vent holes.
What did I do right? Well I have chicks and goslings so I did something right! But next time I hope for a better hatch rate.
Lets see, one thing that noone told me but I kinda figured out. If the chick pips on the underside of the shell, and its the only one pipping, its worth it to open the incubator to turn it pip side up. They seem to do better.
Also, if the chick starts pipping on the small end of the shell, its worth it to help a little, opening a bigger breathing hole because the chick is not in the air pocket.