What temperature is safe for keeping young squabs out of the nest?

LamarshFish

Crowing
9 Years
Mar 26, 2015
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I'm sort of dealing with a clutch where the squabs are looking like they might unfortunately be born 3-4 days apart, thereby creating a size difference issue and feeding squabbles. Squab #1 hatched a few days ago, and the other egg was still not hatched this morning. If it hatches I am planning on standing ready to step in for the smaller squab. Hand feeding has never worked too well for me, so my plan is to remove the larger squab for a few hours to get the smaller squab fed and not have to fight with the larger squab for food.

Just wondering if the larger squab, when removed, will be ok for a few hours at room temp indoors, which is around 70 degrees F.

Also any advice relating to when is the best time(s) to remove the larger squab so the smaller squab gets fed is appreciated!

Thanks
 
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:caf I'd like to know this too. Just went to band 3 and found 1 with an empty crop. It's only just a bit smaller the nest mate.
I hand fed one from day 12 to now day 22. He has become a youtube addict. lol
P1010282.JPG

I am not eager to hand raise another, especially that small, since I'm scared to use non-stick cookware with them indoors for fear of toxic fumes, not to mention the dander.
 
I got out the seedling starter heat mat but of course did not have to use it for the 12 day old. Maybe it would work for a 6day old. Currently it is heading toward 90° again for the third day. I would want to guard against a sudden large drop in temps.
 
Are they under the parents or did you incubate the eggs and are doing the feeding yourself?
with the years ive been raising birds, but pigeons in general, the first egg will hatch on day 18, the second egg sometimes will hatch the same day or even up until day 21.
the squab should be okay if it is only a 3 day difference. the parents will still feed however much each squab needs
 
I am now thinking egg #2 will not hatch. It's been quite a while, I think a few days too long. Also noticing another bird with two eggs not hatched that were due a few days ago. Not sure if this is related, but there is some sickness running through my loft, to YBs with green poop for about a week now, likely just YB sickness, but today I found one of my mature cock birds with a cough/sneeze every few minutes, I think surely a respiratory infection, so I am now treating with a 4 in 1 broad spectrum until the respiratory meds I ordered come in, hopefully soon.

I recommend you guys have at least a 4 in 1 broad spectrum anti biotic, plus a respiratory anti biotic on hand at all times ready to treat birds so you don't have to wait like I am for it to be shipped when your birds need it ASAP. The powdered meds have a very good shelf life.
 
I am now thinking egg #2 will not hatch. It's been quite a while, I think a few days too long. Also noticing another bird with two eggs not hatched that were due a few days ago. Not sure if this is related, but there is some sickness running through my loft, to YBs with green poop for about a week now, likely just YB sickness, but today I found one of my mature cock birds with a cough/sneeze every few minutes, I think surely a respiratory infection, so I am now treating with a 4 in 1 broad spectrum until the respiratory meds I ordered come in, hopefully soon.

I recommend you guys have at least a 4 in 1 broad spectrum anti biotic, plus a respiratory anti biotic on hand at all times ready to treat birds so you don't have to wait like I am for it to be shipped when your birds need it ASAP. The powdered meds have a very good shelf life.
Did you order from Foy's?
 
if you think the egg is bad, it probably is. have you candled it?
you sure its not cocci or worms?
pigeons need to be dewormed every 4-6 months.
has it rained in the past couple of weeks?
usually when it rains and the loft gets very wet the birds will get cocci.

personally I don't like using antibiotics unless I know the bird really needs it.
I use "rooster booster" for my birds to drink in their water. it has probiotics and helps kill the bad bacteria while keeping the good bacteria alive.
antibiotics weaken their system and kills both bad and good bacteria.

we had a young squeaker that was lethargic, very thin, not eating or drinking on it own, green poop. so we gave through a syringe some corid, the "rooster booster" and also organic apple cider vinegar. within a couple of days he started to drink water and eat on his own and is doing well now.

so try the apple cider vinegar and especially the "rooster booster" its great for their bodies and you only use a little. you can find it at tractor supply or feed stores.
 
Did you order from Foy's?

Yes.

if you think the egg is bad, it probably is. have you candled it?
you sure its not cocci or worms?
pigeons need to be dewormed every 4-6 months.
has it rained in the past couple of weeks?
usually when it rains and the loft gets very wet the birds will get cocci.

I have a wormer med but haven't used it yet. If I am going to use it I'm going to wait until this round of antibiotics is finished because I think the wormer has be be used with nothing else.

anytime you do need to use antibiotics, make sure to give them probiotics

My birds get probiotics once a week in their water for a two day period. I plan on providing the probiotic immediately at the end of the antibiotic round.
 

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