Wheels on coop -HELP!

Is there a washer between the head of the pivot bolt and the wood?.....it doesn't look like it.
That's part of the problem.

The pivot lever is not tight enough, that's why it's wobbling....wheel is probably wobbling also, so the misalignment is exponentially worse.

You really need to use bushings in the pivot lever where the bolt goes thru so you can tighten the bolt but not impede the pivot action, probably have the same problem where the 'axle' of the wheel is mounted.
 
I think this is what you asked. ( I do not know what a bushing is.)

Bolt head - washer - wood - washer - tire - washer - lock nut. That is the wheel component.
Bolt head - washer - wood - 3 washers - wood coop - washer - lock nut.
 
This problem has stuck in my mind........

Try this...might need a longer bolt, 4 1/2", fully threaded....and another regular hex nut.
The hole in the lever needs to be just barely big enough in diameter for the bolt to go thru or it will be sloppy..
or actually a bushing or bearing might help.

 
I meant bearing not bushing.....did you build these from a plan, can you link it?

This is the link to the page I got the plans for. I had 10" wheels, but my ground is really soft and the wood would consistently drag the ground, making it really hard to move. My hubby suggested 13" wheels, so I changed them out. The first few times they were wonderful. Now I can hardly get it to move at all. The play in the lever and wheel (which were SUPER tight to begin with) has caused the torque on the system to be almost immovable. I do not have the time to tighten them every week. I did place a 2x4 in between the coop and the lever the last time I moved it and it worked better, but was still very difficult....

http://www.avianaquamiser.com/posts/Wheel_lift_for_a_chicken_tractor/
 
This problem has stuck in my mind........

Try this...might need a longer bolt, 4 1/2", fully threaded....and another regular hex nut.
The hole in the lever needs to be just barely big enough in diameter for the bolt to go thru or it will be sloppy..
or actually a bushing or bearing might help.


I drilled a sink hole into the lever so that the outside bolt will sit flush with the wood and not tear up the tire. I think at the first, the hole was exactly to size, but it has worn a bit and now has some play.

If I understand you correctly, you think that a nut between the two boards will prevent as much play, correct? You mentioned using bearings - I am not exactly construction/mechanically minded - can you tell me how I would use those? I barely got the coop finished. I was hoping it would stay done. I am not really happy it is not. :0/ (Of course, if I had used plans instead of thinking I knew what I was doing and just making it up I might have had better time management in getting it done! :0) )
 
This problem has stuck in my mind........ Try this...might need a longer bolt, 4 1/2", fully threaded....and another regular hex nut. The hole in the lever needs to be just barely big enough in diameter for the bolt to go thru or it will be sloppy.. or actually a bushing or bearing might help.
I totally unassembled and reassembled my wheels. I put lock washers and locktite on the threads of the bolts. I added washers between the wheel and the lever. I even installed a 2x2 along the length of the coop to prevent the lever from having too much torque on it. It worked great about twice. Now, the back two wheels are still working fine, but the front two wheels are starting to lean in again because of the torque on them. The tire is still really tight. Should I add more washers? Would there be less torque on them if there were tires on the front of the coop under the run as well? I am at a loss.
 

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