When is appropriate time to let the bird out for roam freely each day?

Got the same 4 to go out again yesterday afternoon. The cubalayas were lifted out, they are still "nestle nicely in one hand" size. The Astralorp and EE went out on their own but it took a long time and a lot of grass seed from me standing on the outside. They are 2 handers and don't really want to be picked up anyway.

Then I went to mess with the pool some more, a long and not fun story of "what next?". I came back probably 1.5 hours later and all 4 had put themselves back in the inside run. An Ancona and a Partridge Chantecler were happily on the wrong side of the newly placed gate. Not sure how they got there (I knew there are things to tighten up) but they went back in the run with the others with a little encouragement when I opened the gate.

I shut the chicken door to the outside and went to mow the lawn. I came back at dusk and they were all in the coop on the roosts. Clearly they at least have the "go home when it gets dark" thing down. I had to turn on the light and go through their inside run to get to the adjoining stall to count them since I couldn't be sure none had gotten out of the inside run again.

As I've read here, chickens use less roost space than the "suggested minimum per bird" but these girls are taking it to an extreme, especially considering it is summer and not at all cold.

Attempt to show the roosts:

- 8 foot long 4" round fence rail
| 30" 2x4 on edge - 4' from left wall
= 8 foot long 2x4 on the flat

BACK WALL
|
|---------------------------------- SIDE
|
|
|=================== WALL

There was 1 bird on the back roost, far to the left
There were 2 birds on the front roost, also far to the left
There were NINE on the support that holds both of them up. Now I know that at 7 weeks they aren't fully grown, but 3" per bird?

Bruce
 
Knoxville chick, here is the gist of getting them to come to a call.

Thanks for the details. I've passed them on to my wife and we will be starting the "come now" training.

We've already screwed them up by bringing treats at any hour but I suppose we can fix that :)
They definitely expect earwigs when I come in the early evening, even when I don't have the familiar 1 quart yogurt container. Sadly for them, I've decimated the nests around the above ground pool. I need to find a new source.
 
Quote: They like to snuggle at night, even when it is warm out, when they are young. Makes 'em feel secure. If they had been raised by a hen, they are almost young enough that she'd still be sitting on them at night. As they get older, they won't snuggle as much in warm weather, but they'll do this in winter to keep warm.

Nonetheless, it is always good to have more roosting space than absolutely necessary, so if a bird gets bullied in the future, she'll be able to keep some distance from the bullies while roosting.
 
Nonetheless, it is always good to have more roosting space than absolutely necessary, so if a bird gets bullied in the future, she'll be able to keep some distance from the bullies while roosting.
Yep, that is the plan. Learned a LOT on BYC before I did the interior design. Since all the birds are supposed to want to be on the top roost, I made sure I had more than the "required" amount so they could ALL be on top. The top roosts are 18" apart so they can't pick on each other (another great BYC tip).

There is also a 2' high roost 9" forward of the forward top roost. It is there because they weren't full grown and I wanted to make sure they could get up off the ground. There are 2 plastic pool steps at 1 and 3 feet on the left edge (free from a friend). Same reason - didn't know how high up they would able to get at 4+ weeks old. At 7 weeks they mostly fly first to the 2' high roost then to the forward 4' high roost. From there they hop back and forth, or take the "long" road and walk around - at least before they decide it is bed time and the side brace is occupied.
 
So its safe to say that we can start these training methods before they are allowed to free range? Can it be done say once daily like you suggest Janine and start the free ranging say for a few hrs before dusk so that they all follow suit with the cooping at night or would this be phase 2 of the lessons to be learned? I have 9 pullets that are 6 weeks and they come out to free run the pen with each other bouncing back and forth to all of them out and then they all go for a nap and then all come out again in kind of 1 hr intervals sorta thing. I have been doing the treat thing once a day with mealworm in a large soup can and the calling and shaking of the can and really want to let the birds roam. The pen still has lots of green so its not a huge concern right now and Im also attempting to acclimate the chick and my 22 month old dog. I would start the ranging without the dog of course ( 1 step at a time ) But I am also home right now and would love to have them range for some time during the day. If I let them out during the afternoon and round them up (herding them myself due to the fact that they don't really know the calling part yet ) I won't be doing any harm will I by herding them myself without the call will I and will they start getting farther and farther on their own so they know their own way back. Maybe seems like a 6pm thing might be better but maybe it will prevent them from also exploring oout of their comfort zone
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I love being at home and acting as the shepherd for the flock, or would that make me a rooster
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Great thread and thanks in advance to all of you on this awesome forum!
 
Avedderflock, Yes, it would be fine to start teaching them the call now even though you already let them out. The important point is that you teach them that the the call is the one and only clue to the treat, so they will quickly learn to run to you whenever you call. So don't show them the can until after you call.
 
I'm training mine to come when they hear the sound of BOSS being shaken inside a mason jar. Shake shake, then I pour out a small amount at my feet to reward them for coming over. They're only 8 weeks old, but my two smarty pants BRs are already getting the hang of it. :)
 
Well thanks so much for a speedy reply and I have been rattling the can as well but now that you make mention of it I feel its a better way to go (without) the can rattle. After all I don't want to run around looking for a can or need to prepare in advance if I need them to come back fairly promptly.

Right now Im thinking that once everyone really knows the call and is 100% sold on the call then they may hustled back to the pen in case of emergency from flying predators or what have you, that can be seen by myself and I could call. Just might prove to be very useful in more than that scenario as well. Thank you for that insight. Iv been told that chickens can be very smart and might as well try to do what we can to prevent losses.
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Chickens adapt to a new home fairly easy, and certainly alot quick than say Guineas (who, by the by have to stay penned up for about a month in their new home), whereas chickens can be locked up a couple of days in their new coop and allowed to free range and then go back to their new home. I'd say you should keep them locked up for about 1-2 weeks. To be on the safe side.

I like to let my waterfowl out in the evenings, when it's cooler. That way I get to watch them, and make sure they don't get into any trouble.

~ Aspen
 
Right now Im thinking that once everyone really knows the call and is 100% sold on the call then they may hustled back to the pen in case of emergency from flying predators or what have you, that can be seen by myself and I could call. Just might prove to be very useful in more than that scenario as well. Thank you for that insight. Iv been told that chickens can be very smart and might as well try to do what we can to prevent losses.
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Yes, exactly. I do call mine back into the coop when I spot a predator before they do. It is really handy to have them trained.
 

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