Which Incubator to buy?

Date sort Score sort
brandy00 said:
Well, I just bit the bullet and ordered the Brinsea 20 Advanced. Wayfair.com has it on sale for 349.99 with free shipping. I was leaning toward the Rcom, but I couldn't pass up the Brinsea at that sale price. Now I have to find something to do with my time while I wait for it to get here!
:weee
Click to expand...


Yay!!! I hope you love it and PLEASE keep us updated once it arrives!! I have seen it at that price as well, maybe at incubator warehouse..? I think that may be why I feel the rcom seems more expensive to me is because I have seen the brinsea advance for $350 in a few places. The soonest I will have the money for mine is next week but I am so excited. One of the breeders I am hoping to buy hatching eggs from won't have eggs available for the chocolate orps for a few weeks so it will work out well I'm hoping :D
 
Last edited:
TattooedMama said:
Quote:
I was also VERY confused about humidity levels. Temp recommendations are quite consistent, but humidity recommendations are all over the place. Plus, everyone warns that if the humidity is wrong your chicks die. But I finally figured it out (I think -- those of you with lots of experience, please let me know if this is right or not). The reason humidity is so important is that humidity determines how much water evaporates from the egg white during incubation. When water evaporates out of the egg, the air sac in the egg enlarges. If the air sac is too small at hatch time, the chick can't breath after its internal pip, so it suffocates or drowns. If the air sac is too large, then the inner membrane has shrunk down too much and the chick can't pip properly, which some people call shrink wrapped. So the humidity has to be low enough to allow the excess water to evaporate out of the egg, but not so low that too much evaporates. But different egg shells and membranes have different porosities, so they evaporate differently. So for some eggs, the right humidity will be 20%, others 30%, others even higher. To determine how to adjust your humidity, you can either weigh your eggs or candle your eggs regularly. Weighing determines how much water they've lost, and candling determines how big the air sac is. There are references in the Hatching 101 article on BYC (and lots of other places) that tell you how much weight the eggs should lose per week or what the air sac should look like every week. If your eggs aren't on schedule, then you need to increase or decrease your humidity accordingly, I've been told that most people start out with a humidity between 20-30% the first week, then "let the eggs tell you what to do." At lock down, I've been told to use 65% humidity to make it easier for the chicks to reposition themselves in the egg -- otherwise it gets too sticky to move around.

A "dry hatch" isn't really dry. That's just what people call it when you don't have to add water to the incubator to get the humidity where you want it. People who live in very humid areas of the world will often have enough moisture in the air without needing to add extra. People who live in very dry areas of the world can't do this successfully. Often it's a seasonal option, all depending on your climate, and where you keep the incubator. People talk about winter and summer incubating being totally different.

Do I have it right, or are some of the details wrong?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
You've pretty well summed it up, I will also add another factor is how full the incubator is. My full incubator maintains itself well while half full requires added water to keep the humidity levels
 
Last edited:
Sydney Acres said:
I was also VERY confused about humidity levels.  Temp recommendations are quite consistent, but humidity recommendations are all over the place.  Plus, everyone warns that if the humidity is wrong your chicks die.   But I finally figured it out (I think -- those of you with lots of experience, please let me know if this is right or not).  The reason humidity is so important is that humidity determines how much water evaporates from the egg white during incubation.  When water evaporates out of the egg, the air sac in the egg enlarges.  If the air sac is too small at hatch time, the chick can't breath after its internal pip, so it suffocates or drowns.  If the air sac is too large, then the inner membrane has shrunk down too much and the chick can't pip properly, which some people call shrink wrapped.  So the humidity has to be low enough to allow the excess water to evaporate out of the egg, but not so low that too much evaporates.  But different egg shells and membranes have different porosities, so they evaporate differently.  So for some eggs, the right humidity will be 20%, others 30%, others even higher.  To determine how to adjust your humidity, you can either weigh your eggs or candle your eggs regularly.  Weighing determines how much water they've lost, and candling determines how big the air sac is.  There are references in the Hatching 101 article on BYC (and lots of other places) that tell you how much weight the eggs should lose per week or what the air sac should look like every week.  If your eggs aren't on schedule, then you need to increase or decrease your humidity accordingly,  I've been told that most people start out with a humidity between 20-30% the first week, then "let the eggs tell you what to do."  At lock down, I've been told to use 65% humidity to make it easier for the chicks to reposition themselves in the egg -- otherwise it gets too sticky to move around.

A "dry hatch" isn't really dry.  That's just what people call it when you don't have to add water to the incubator to get the humidity where you want it.  People who live in very humid areas of the world will often have enough moisture in the air without needing to add extra.  People who live in very dry areas of the world can't do this successfully.  Often it's a seasonal option, all depending on your climate, and where you keep the incubator.  People talk about winter and summer incubating being totally different.

Do I have it right, or are some of the details wrong?
Click to expand...


Thank you for the detailed explanation. I am soaking it all up for when it come time for me to put my own eggs in the incubator which anticipate will be within a months time. Humidity levels certainly vary between both incubator manuals and breeders alike (whether amateur or seasoned). I plan to run my incubator a few days ahead which seems to be a popular recommendation. I think once I "officially" decide on an incubator that humidity levels will be my next research subject.
 
TattooedMama said:
Yay!!! I hope you love it and PLEASE keep us updated once it arrives!! I have seen it at that price as well, maybe at incubator warehouse..? I think that may be why I feel the rcom seems more expensive to me is because I have seen the brinsea advance for $350 in a few places. The soonest I will have the money for mine is next week but I am so excited. One of the breeders I am hoping to buy hatching eggs from a breeder who won't have eggs availed for the chocolate orps for a few weeks so it will work out well I'm hoping :D
Click to expand...


I will keep you posted!
 
I love my simple LG still air Styrofoam incubator. Its simple and inexpensive. no bells or whistles but it gives me 75%+ hatch rate dozens of times
 

Similar threads

kuchchicks
    • Like
Best Incubator for a Classroom
Replies
4
Views
383
Mill Chick
Mill Chick
karint
    • Like
incubating shipped eggs
Replies
5
Views
587
Ridgerunner
Ridgerunner
karint
Dry hatch in a hova bator
Replies
2
Views
482
karint
karint
winterwolf4
    • Like
Brinsea incubator vs. Nuture right 360
Replies
7
Views
755
2ndTink
2ndTink
M
combo incubator hatcher
Replies
1
Views
312
HatchCraft
H

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom