Who here is into Photography?

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If you are just wanting to post the pics to the computer, not print them, you could take the pic you wanted the close up of, or take one as close as your camera can. Then crop extensively to only be what you wanted in the close up, if your original pic is clear enough (focus wise) and your pic is big enough (pixel wise) the enlargement should be good enough for the screen, but you wouldn't be able to make a print of it.
 
I've been wanting to upgrade my camera for ages. I happened to find the Nikon d7000 kit I've been hunting right in my local Best Buy. So, of course the first things I shot were the birds:









I'm lovin' this camera. It has video capability also, but for now I'm just playing with the still photography until I learn how all of the settings work.

Mary
 
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HELP!

I need setting advice.

This is my problem: During Basketball games...almost all the action is blurry.

I have a Nikon D40 and three different Nikkor Lens options.

My niece and my son both play tonight in an intercounty rivalry. Please Help.
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The easiest thing to tell you to do is to use the automatic mode(s). The little man that looks like he is running on your mode dial, is for sports.

The hardest thing to tell you to do is to read a book on the exposure triangle. The book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson is an excellent book for this. You're going to need high shutter speeds to stop the action, nearly wide open apertures or flash if you are inside, and high ISO speeds for night games.
 
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Ok, what lenses do you have? You need a lens that will allow you to let in enough light to up your shutter speed high enough to stop the action on that court. Can you list your lenses please? This shot was taken in bright sun with a lens rated "F 2.8" (the lens opens to a large diameter), so I had no problem with getting proper light (aperture) to match the high shutter speed. Taken with my Nikon d70s:

 
Assuming the basketball game is indoors and you are using a lens that came with your camera, try:

Upping the ISO as high as you can with your camera, watch for noise in the images and use a lower ISO (sensitivity to light) Try 400, 800 and up

Pick a shutter speed that is high enough to slow the action, you can freeze the player in space or allow some motion blur to show action. Try 1/250 and move up faster depending on what you want to see.

(FYI-you can use an auto setting other than the running guy, AV with that lowest f stop and setting your ISO up will let the camera pick the shutter speed)

Set your aperture value (AV) to the smallest number your lens has, f2.8, f3.5, f4, f5.6.... This is where your lens really makes a difference and why you see a lot of pro/series photographers using more expensive lenses (to get that 2.8 and some kind of image stabilizer) One thing you can try, might not focus as fast so you will miss a few shots, is the 50mm 1.8 lens that used to come standard with film slrs. A Nikon 50mm is just over $100 (the nifty fifty Canon is under $100)

Another plus with that lens is you can take some really nice low light photos with a well blurred background.
 
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Assuming you know how to shoot manual of course.... if all else fails, put it on the little green box.

The little green box is a good place to start.

The modes are also good places to start

The P (program on your Canon) is also a good place (and as a pro posted a couple of weeks back, he calls is P for Professional. My guy calls is P for Perfect)

But, using AV does not mean you need to totally understand shooting in Manual. The camera is still picking the matching shutterspeed for you, which is a big benefit in shooting in a building with various lighting situations. For many "those" buttons seem scary, they are not.
 
I shoot everything in Manual (we weren't allowed to use auto settings in school). One note about ISO though. I don't remember where the Nikon 40D stands in comparison to Canon's but a few years ago I had a Canon Rebel and depending on the lens mostly, the higher I got the ISOs the "noisier" my photos were. There was a lot of digital noise that sucks
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But if you don't zoom in real close or print it large you may not be able to see it anyway. I try to shoot with IS0 100 if I can. But sometimes it's just getting the shot that matters and so you bump up the ISO!
 
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I am with you on the low iso..... I like leaving it on 100. I just wish it went lower!

But, as digital cameras get better, I find I am happier using 200, 320, 400 than in the past. (first digital camera for me was the 10d-currently mostly using my 7d)

You can work with noise in post, but better to not have the problem.

I almost hate to share some sprint car shots because shooting a speeding object at night in a dark corner means a high iso.
 

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