Windows and other things

They really should have some sort of light to see by in the coop, to help them get to the roost at night and for ucky days when they don't want to spend all their time outside. And it seems silly to use an electric light to do that when you could more easily use natural lighting.

So, I cannot see any possible *reason* for *not* giving them a window that admits light even when closed. It is really really simple, just make a plexiglas (or other transparent material) cover for your closeable flap, ta da.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
Quote:
I raised my house closer to 2' off the ground based on a design from an old book that I have copied on My Page. I have standard birds and 1' would not have been enough for them. I am amazed at how much time they spend under there even with my run being completely in the shade. They run under the coop when loud noises happen or a loud bird is heard and just generally hang out there for some reason! So I'm glad I raised it. I have 11 birds, started with 12, since I thought, being a newbie, I'd lose 5-10%...the one that died was killed during a late night visit by some teenagers
barnie.gif
. The book I mentioned above states you can have 2 s.f. per bird in the coop and 5 s.f. in the run, but folks on this site are pretty dead set against it-they recommend 5/10. So far my birds have few problems or squabbles even though they're establishing their pecking order right now, but I definitely wish I had made the coop larger!!! BUT, I did make my run to average about 15+ s.f. per bird and once I finish getting it completely enclosed with hardware cloth, I hope to be able to leave the pop door open so they can get out at dawn's early morn. Also, my laying box will be exterior, so it helps with some of the s.f. issues.

Quote:
I definitely think you should put in windows. It will help in the winter months with egg production. I made my own using clear glass that I purchased @ Lowe's (and then etched...) and stained glass on the front windows (cuz I happen to know how to do that). I posted pics on My Page so you can see how I made them. My understanding is that chickens breathe a LOT of oxygen and therefore create high humidity in the coop. That's why I "raised" the coop roof to make a passive ventilation system that you can kinda see in my last picture. Just wished I hadn't used that @*#% Palruf clear corrugated roofing - they claim it's tough, but it didn't stand up to our hailstorms!! So, that will be replaced with corrugated metal some day... The window frames were constructed with cedar 1x2 cut to length with a "channel" running on the inside (used a dado blade on the table saw for that). I just ran the glass through the channel and put a finishing nail at each corner to join the pieces. Not the best design, but it works and since this coop and run is the first thing I've ever designed or made, it was the best I could come up with without having fancy equipment! On the inside I have both 1/2" hardware cloth and window screen cloth (to keep our dang dirt dobbers and wasps out!). My biggest problem is with the etched window - I made it to fit the opening to its exact size and with all the rain we've had it has swollen and is hard to close right now...I learn as I go. You can check My Page on the left for a few pics I've uploaded. Good luck with your project!
 
Valentine baby, beautiful windows! Thank you for your tips. I'm now politely asking my dh to make the coop 2' off the ground. It's wasted space otherwise and a great place for shelter! Thanks again!
 
I've noticed folks mentioning 4x6 coops....why not go 4x8 and use a sheet of standard sized plywood more efficiently?

Definitely have some good ventilation.

Great suggestion by valentinebaby on raising your coop but
I will suggest another 1/2 foot. With your original 5' height and then adding another 1 1/2' that would give your roof edge a finished height of around 6 1/2 feet. Unless you or your DH are very tall, by raising the roof this much neither of you should have problems bumping your head on the roof (metal/wood edges hurt!) as you near the coop. You could also extend the roof overhang a bit more without causing "stoop at the coop" fatigue.

Looking at the link to the Amish coop, the slope of the roof looks will drain rainwater on you if you must do maintenance in the rain...might it be better to slope the roof away from the door? You could put a small window in the door. Also, if you extended the roof out over the nestboxes it would protect you somewhat from rain and also protect the nestboxes themselves.

The two windows in each end appear to be fixed and non-opening. The roost appears to run between these two windows. Should these two windows be modified to open then in the summer time a draft would be created between them that would basically travel along the roost level which should be fine. In winter, though, this draft would be a no-no. I still would want to be able to open them during warm weather but I would think a narrow ventilation area placed around the roof/wall junction would work much better during the winter...and would help add to the ventilation effect in the summer. Follow patandchickens lead and delve into the wonderful world of plexiglas.
smile.png


Windows could actually be made of 1/2 hardware cloth, fake mutin bars could be installed on the outside of the wire to simulate window panes....in the winter pre-cut pieces of plexiglas predrilled with mounting holes in the corners and weather-stripping attached could be installed with thumbscrews.

Lot's of modifications you can do...have fun!

Just some thoughts...
Ed
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom