Quote: Stick a screw in it to attach it to the wall, or tie a bungee cord around it.
Build a rack to set it in
IMPROVISE
LOL
Build a rack to set it in
IMPROVISE
LOL

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How cold do your winters get. We get -40 c here. Do u think this will work here.Thanks for the shout-out! I have been using these cookie tin water heaters here in New England for several years. They're super simple to make and work like a charm with both metal AND plastic waterers!![]()
That having been said, I don't use traditional waterers anymore. I installed three Chicken Fountains, one in each coop, and they will stay liquid in the winter months with the heater accessory.
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So, all of your watering systems are in the run, and not in your coop? How do you set up electric to be weather proof? Does your 250W deicer have a built in thermostat?This year I am trying out some heated dog water bowls, but in an unconventional way. A 5 gallon bucket will just fit inside an extra large "granite" bowl. I fit a bucket with horizontal nipples that clear the sides of the bowl and set it in the partially filled bowl. So far the the dog bowl has kept the water in the bucket from freezing - in 13F temps - and the nipples have not frozen. The heating element is only 60 watts and is economical to use, and the nipples ensure that the water stays clean. My biggest issues with buckets are that the birds like to sit on them and knock them over, and the lids are hard for me to open and close.
Another system I like a lot is a large rain barrel fitted with a spigot near the bottom and heated with a 250 Watt de-icer. This is set on a stand about 30" high, and the spigot hangs over the edge of the stand, so that when I open it the water flows into my 12 gallon waterer. This is a sterilite flip latch tote fitted, again, with horizontal nipples. I put a de-icer in it, too, and it provides clean water for a while. The nice thing about these flip latch totes is that they are VERY easy to open and close, and they remain secure no matter how many chickens like to get up and hop around on them. When mine needs refilling, I just flip the latch and lift the lid under the rain barrel spigot and fill it up. For larger numbers of birds, it is easy enough for even an old hen like myself to use, but it is not the most economical of set ups.
Here is an idea that has worked for me since I started using horizontal nipples: I put my water vessel OUTSIDE the coop or pen, and make an opening in the coop or pen side through which the nipple can fit. This sort of arrangement can be made to serve two sides of a fence, pen, or divider in a coop, but I especially like it because the vessel is not available for the birds to defile, and I don't have to go in to the pen or coop to fill it or clean it. Works great for a brooder or any place where space is at a premium. The water vessels themselves must be flat sided for this application, though.
These are some ideas for getting water to your chickens, mostly learned the hard way. Am still working on ideas and will appreciate feedback.
In my smaller coop (4 x 8) the first year with 5 birds, I gave them a flower pot heater for those days on end that never got up to 0*F. It may have raised the temp a few degrees, and they could have snuggled up to it if they wanted. Last winter, in 10 x 12, I gave a bit of heat, at night when they were hypothermic. (depressed appetite, as well as decreased activity level: standing around with feathers fluffed all day) In your smaller coop, you will need to be sure that they have plenty of ventilation which is not at comb level. Also, be sure that when they roost, that they are not too close to the wall. If their faces are close to the wall when roosting, their exhaled moisture condenses and produces a perfect set up for frost bite when they are close to the wall. You'll also need to be sure that when they are on the roost that their feet can be flat, not curled around a skinny roost pole. 2 x 4 laid on the flat is good. Do they have a run that they can access in the winter? "They say" that chickens DON'T need heat in the winter. For the most part, I'm inclined to agree. But, when I see my flock eating LESS, and not moving well, IMO, they are NOT doing fine, and will benefit from a few degrees of heat. Katelyn, have you been to the Maine thread? You might want to join us over there. Also, are you going into the winter with a flock as big as you'd like? An extra body or two might help, but you would also be dealing with introducing birds as they are moving into the most stressfull time of the year. It would depend on your set up, and if you have a run that is sheltered enough that they will use it in the winter. I have been using a 5 qt heated dog bowl with a gallon jug of water set in the middle for my smaller flock. Need to upgrade for larger flock this year.I have 2 chickens. I did have 3 and 2 ducks but they got eaten by coydogs. I am in Maine and I am having trouble with the water freezing. I really don't want to out a heat lamp out there due to them being inside thier 4x4 coop all day until I get home. And I have heard that when you do heat the coops and then you let them out they will get sick and freeze. Will they keep eachother warm or should I get another chicken or 2. And also will they keep eachother warm or what should I do. It's my first winter with chickens. And Maine can get COLD
So, all of your watering systems are in the run, and not in your coop? How do you set up electric to be weather proof? Does your 250W deicer have a built in thermostat?
In my smaller coop (4 x 8) the first year with 5 birds, I gave them a flower pot heater for those days on end that never got up to 0*F. It may have raised the temp a few degrees, and they could have snuggled up to it if they wanted. Last winter, in 10 x 12, I gave a bit of heat, at night when they were hypothermic. (depressed appetite, as well as decreased activity level: standing around with feathers fluffed all day) In your smaller coop, you will need to be sure that they have plenty of ventilation which is not at comb level. Also, be sure that when they roost, that they are not too close to the wall. If their faces are close to the wall when roosting, their exhaled moisture condenses and produces a perfect set up for frost bite when they are close to the wall. You'll also need to be sure that when they are on the roost that their feet can be flat, not curled around a skinny roost pole. 2 x 4 laid on the flat is good. Do they have a run that they can access in the winter? "They say" that chickens DON'T need heat in the winter. For the most part, I'm inclined to agree. But, when I see my flock eating LESS, and not moving well, IMO, they are NOT doing fine, and will benefit from a few degrees of heat. Katelyn, have you been to the Maine thread? You might want to join us over there. Also, are you going into the winter with a flock as big as you'd like? An extra body or two might help, but you would also be dealing with introducing birds as they are moving into the most stressfull time of the year. It would depend on your set up, and if you have a run that is sheltered enough that they will use it in the winter. I have been using a 5 qt heated dog bowl with a gallon jug of water set in the middle for my smaller flock. Need to upgrade for larger flock this year.
Does anyone know where to get copper tips for water nipples? Colorado winter issues!