winterizing and coop humidity

[MrFuzzyPants]

I am glad I found this hundred year old book titled 'Open-air Poultry Houses for All Climates' when I built my coop out of our toy shed two years ago. The book is available for a free download, very nice reading for all byc enthusiasts. My easter eggers never mind the cold. Waterer sits on poultry water warmer in winter. Keeping the air fresh is really important. Even on single digit days here in the northeast, they sleep on the roost right on

the door, looking out. So, I would say - err on the side of more ventilation vs keeping them warm.
Also, common humidity meters are unreliable by design. They use a piece of paper rolled up in a coil. Unlike thermometers, these get saturated and then are completely useless. The only reliable way is to use a dew point meter used in HVAC equipment-this uses a laser beam to find the precise temperature at which a small mirror fogs up. I would like to know if anyone tried out one of those.

 

[Indoroowet]

Regarding ventilation, as it has been mentioned umpteen times all over BYC,
you need 1 square foot per chicken ventilation open area.
You have less, you need more !!

 

[aart]

I am glad I found this hundred year old book titled 'Open-air Poultry Houses for All Climates' when I built my coop out of our toy shed two years ago. The book is available for a free download, very nice reading for all byc enthusiasts. My easter eggers never mind the cold. Waterer sits on poultry water warmer in winter. Keeping the air fresh is really important. Even on single digit days here in the northeast, they sleep on the roost right on

the door, looking out. So, I would say - err on the side of more ventilation vs keeping them warm.
Also, common humidity meters are unreliable by design. They use a piece of paper rolled up in a coil. Unlike thermometers, these get saturated and then are completely useless. The only reliable way is to use a dew point meter used in HVAC equipment-this uses a laser beam to find the precise temperature at which a small mirror fogs up. I would like to know if anyone tried out one of those.

Although your setup is not quite in proportion to the Woods concept, it look as tho it might behave as such in winter....but what do you do in summer??

Hygrometers are easily tested for accuracy:

Hygrometers can be tested by putting 1/2 cup salt and 1/4 cup water in a dish or jar and mixing it to a slurry.
Put the salt slurry jar and the hygrometer next to each other in a large sealed plastic bag.
After 8-12 hours the hygrometer should read 75%... note any differences to take into account while taking readings and you're set.

 

[Lilyput]

Hello all

I am new to this site. I have come to back yard chickens for help on so many things but this is my first post.

My husband and I decided to change to a larger coop. Its an 8x12 ft shed we had built. We figured the birds would winter better with space, and that it would be easier to manage and clean. It is vented on both ends near the pitch for cross ventilation. My husband insulated the inside with good insulation and hung plywood interior walls 6ft 6 inches. ceiling is open.
Everything I have read has talked about proper ventilation and how important it is.
Why is my coop 30 degrees with 80% humidity??

This is making me so nervous.
I clean the coop just about everyday by scooping, so poo is not problem I do have feeder/waterer inside with a warmer I made from a cookie tin and lighting kit, to prevent water from freezing.

I am really hoping my cheap tractor supply thermometer/humidity gauge is faulty.

Any suggestion?

I don't know where you are located, but I am in NC; it only gets to about 32 at night and days average around 45 through the winter (not very cold) I have a 3 sided shed approx. 12 x 20. One whole side is completely open as well as about 3 feet along the bottom of one side. Where the roof meets one of the sides that is also open between each rafter. Within that shed, I have a 4 x 4 coop with 2 nesting boxes. Because the coop is within the shed, about 3 1/2 feet x 1 foot is open at the top and there is a door which is about 3 1/2 feet by 1 1/2 feet, on one side and the other side where the roosting bars are is completely enclosed except for a small opening about 5 inches x 3 x feet on the side above the roosting bars (I close this every night during the winter.) I'll try to give you some pictures but sometimes I have trouble attaching. I have five hens. My point is I have a ton of air going through this place. It sounds to me that you don't have half the air you need. even if you are in a lot colder climate.


These pictures are when we were building. The additional opening I spoke about would be along the side of this picture; air goes in and right out through the "roof" which is visible above my daughter's head; and of course the door is fully aerated. The full side of the shed is always open. Outside the shed I have a fenced run about 15 x 20 feet. So the chickens have plenty of room inside the run; plenty of room outside the run and a cozy coop to sleep in and lay eggs. Again your weather may be too cold; but I think minimally you would want a lot more air in your shed than you have.

 

[MrFuzzyPants]

good observations. The coop has a maple tree behind it - shades it partly in summer. Also use a small fan on top corner through the hot part of summer. The coop does get plenty of sun inside round the year though.
The Open Air Poultry Houses book by Woods is really amazing. I used it as a guide for my toyshed conversion.

After seeing the amount of dust the critters generate in the coop, I dont think any hygrometer will survive for a week. Pretty sure the input vent and insides will block up and cause irreversible damage

I will try out your calibration 'recipe' for home use. It sounds like a fun science experiment!

 

[MrFuzzyPants]

Although your setup is not quite in proportion to the Woods concept, it look as tho it might behave as such in winter....but what do you do in summer??

Hygrometers are easily tested for accuracy:

Hygrometers can be tested by putting 1/2 cup salt and 1/4 cup water in a dish or jar and mixing it to a slurry.
Put the salt slurry jar and the hygrometer next to each other in a large sealed plastic bag.
After 8-12 hours the hygrometer should read 75%... note any differences to take into account while taking readings and you're set.

good observations. The coop has a maple tree behind it - shades it partly in summer. Also use a small fan on top corner through the hot part of summer. The coop does get plenty of sun inside round the year though.
The Open Air Poultry Houses book by Woods is really amazing. I used it as a guide for my toyshed conversion.

After seeing the amount of dust the critters generate in the coop, I dont think any hygrometer will survive for a week. Pretty sure the input vent and insides will block up and cause irreversible damage

I will try out your calibration 'recipe' for home use. It sounds like a fun science experiment!

 

[aart]

Quote: Not really calibration, that requires adjustment of device which most residential hygrometers do not have...
......but you can test it for accuracy so you can 'adjust' your readings.

 

[freedom chick]

I have a set of 8"x16" louvered exhaust vent for this coop. They are directly across from each other at roof gable (?).
This is the ventilation this 8'x12' shed came with.
Is it enough for 6 chickens?

Coop humidity has been running with outside humidity -so much rain.

I ready 1 sq ft of vent opening per bird or per 10 sq ft floor space. ????
I may as well take out a whole wall!
What now?
Any suggestions?

Thanks guys

 

[RonP]

I have a set of 8"x16" louvered exhaust vent for this coop. They are directly across from each other at roof gable (?).
This is the ventilation this 8'x12' shed came with.
Is it enough for 6 chickens?

Coop humidity has been running with outside humidity -so much rain.

I ready 1 sq ft of vent opening per bird or per 10 sq ft floor space. ????
I may as well take out a whole wall!
What now?
Any suggestions?

Thanks guys

Having a large coop for few birds will help, as there is a greater volume of air to hold trapped moisture, but rest assured, your birds will create a lot of moisture.

Keep vigilant.

 

[Lilyput]

I have a set of 8"x16" louvered exhaust vent for this coop. They are directly across from each other at roof gable (?).
This is the ventilation this 8'x12' shed came with.
Is it enough for 6 chickens?

Coop humidity has been running with outside humidity -so much rain.

I ready 1 sq ft of vent opening per bird or per 10 sq ft floor space. ????
I may as well take out a whole wall!
What now?
Any suggestions?

Thanks guys

You still don't say where you are living. Depending on how cold it gets and stays, I would probably screen in one whole door or the tops of two doors if that is what the shed came with and keep the exhaust vents, and I think without this ventilation, you'll be serving baked chicken in the summer. As you can see by my pictures above, one whole wall is missing from my shed!