Woods Style Open Air Chicken Coops

[cholland]

I think the trick is regulating the venting with the upper windows. Seems that you would want it open just a crack even down to just freezing temps.
I'm in a warmer climate. Barely gets down to 25 once or twice in the winter and then only for a few hours in the early AM. I should have an 8x12 woods done in a couple of months. Will probably leave the upper window open, at least partially, all year. My current shed coop is open near the top all year now, with no issues.

 

[GinaNew York]

[E="bruceha2000, post: 19485888, member: 136929"]This part confused me. No vents means the windows in the front of your coop are closed??

It would make sense that if the front is open there wouldn't be a draft on the birds on the roosts in the back even with a ridge vent, assuming there is no way for air to escape the building behind an imaginary vertical wall going up to the peak. I would GUESS though, that some amount of rain or snow could get somewhat farther into the front of the coop with the ridge vent there allowing air flow. Of course the same would be true if any of the upper windows were open.[/QUOTE]

sorry if I'm not clear - the soffit openings on the sides of the coop were never made - there are three windows in the front, one on the shed side and two on the run side for a total of six huge windows -

so with the acurite system, we're seeing what days the humidity rises inside and it's the days of warm/snow not the minus zero days - we control the air flow with the windows - the roosts are at the back of the 16 foot depth 24 and 36 inches off the ground - the ceiling I closed/open with wire mesh covering the openings

we haven't seen any humidity on the windows or walls inside the coop area but did by the shed side when the window was closed - no wind inside and the air inside is almost the same as outside - only the run is 10 degrees warmer

 

[GinaNew York]

I think the trick is regulating the venting with the upper windows. Seems that you would want it open just a crack even down to just freezing temps.
I'm in a warmer climate. Barely gets down to 25 once or twice in the winter and then only for a few hours in the early AM. I should have an 8x12 woods done in a couple of months. Will probably leave the upper window open, at least partially, all year. My current shed coop is open near the top all year now, with no issues.

if you read the book, Woods is saying to close the windows with the snow and I think it was open from April forward - climates and humidity are so different and with this changing of the weather even harder to make generalizations, it's a day by day thing - our one girl with the comb that is so huge it folds over and lands in her eyes has black on the tips of the comb - we keep watching it but no change - the others are all ok

 

[GinaNew York]

I think the trick is regulating the venting with the upper windows. Seems that you would want it open just a crack even down to just freezing temps.
I'm in a warmer climate. Barely gets down to 25 once or twice in the winter and then only for a few hours in the early AM. I should have an 8x12 woods done in a couple of months. Will probably leave the upper window open, at least partially, all year. My current shed coop is open near the top all year now, with no issues.

 

[swar40]

Just got the windows for my coop but now questioning the size.

We have decided on building the 10x16. I got 3 windows that are 32x36 for the top monitor windows and the same size for each window on the sides. Are the monitor windows too big? And the side windows too small?

 

[swar40]

Can I put a poop shelf under the roosting bars or will that ruin the design?

Also, how far from the wall should the roosting bars be and how far apart. I know it’s in the book but I’m not finding it.

Hoping to finish this part of the coop tomorrow!!!

 

[aart]

Can I put a poop shelf under the roosting bars or will that ruin the design?

Also, how far from the wall should the roosting bars be and how far apart.

Yes.
12" away from back wall and 18" apart (Logical guesstimate, not from book).

 

[bruceha2000]

12" & 18" is what I've heard for roost spacing regardless of the coop design. 12" gives them room to not hit the wall and 18" keeps them far enough apart they have to work at annoying each other (still happens) and they can hop from one to the other.

 

[Howard E]

Specs in the Victory House were 9" from back wall and 12" apart. But 12" and 14" to 18" will work. If you are using three roost bars, and need the space, closer together is OK.

Woods originally included a droppings board in his plans, but quickly decided he liked it better without one and never used them. I don't have one in mine and don't miss it. If manure builds up on top of the litter. toss in a few cups of raw oats and they will go at the litter and bury it all for you. No smell that way. With a full load of birds, you might need to clean it out about 3 or 4 times a year. With a light load, only once or twice.

 

[swar40]

Specs in the Victory House were 9" from back wall and 12" apart. But 12" and 14" to 18" will work. If you are using three roost bars, and need the space, closer together is OK.

Woods originally included a droppings board in his plans, but quickly decided he liked it better without one and never used them. I don't have one in mine and don't miss it. If manure builds up on top of the litter. toss in a few cups of raw oats and they will go at the litter and bury it all for you. No smell that way. With a full load of birds, you might need to clean it out about 3 or 4 times a year. With a light load, only once or twice.

Thanks!!! I was hoping to have space under the droppings board for a broody box or unjust wf bird. What are your thoughts? Is it not worth it? The other thought was shelves off to one side that were hardware cloth bottoms and sides that could be used for broody boxes.