Working on Ventilation

[MRichmond]

I posted this coop repurpose before, but it’s here now and I actually have time to work on it. I’m trying to figure out the best ventilation I can. It is 6x6x8 at the peak. I have 8 pullets, so if I understand correctly, I need 1 sq ft (144 sq inches) per bird minimum, which comes up to 1152 sq inches. If I cut out the eaves and replace with hardware cloth, I’ll gain 660 square inches. There are currently 2 small windows that combined add 192 sq inches. I have 2 additional 18x24 windows that will add 392 sq inches for a total of 1136 sq inches, a little short of my minimum. There is a continuous ridge vent, so that adds some additional venting as well. I could also add some gable vents, but I want to make sure not to put a draft on the roost area that will be opposite the current door. The door seen here will be 24”x68” once it’s done. I want to make sure I do right by my birds, so any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[DobieLover]

I posted this coop repurpose before, but it’s here now and I actually have time to work on it. I’m trying to figure out the best ventilation I can. It is 6x6x8 at the peak. I have 8 pullets, so if I understand correctly, I need 1 sq ft (144 sq inches) per bird minimum, which comes up to 1152 sq inches. If I cut out the eaves and replace with hardware cloth, I’ll gain 660 square inches. There are currently 2 small windows that combined add 192 sq inches. I have 2 additional 18x24 windows that will add 392 sq inches for a total of 1136 sq inches, a little short of my minimum. There is a continuous ridge vent, so that adds some additional venting as well. I could also add some gable vents, but I want to make sure not to put a draft on the roost area that will be opposite the current door. The door seen here will be 24”x68” once it’s done. I want to make sure I do right by my birds, so any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.View attachment 1853764 View attachment 1853761 View attachment 1853762

I would add a vent on each gable end by cutting a 2x4 and attaching as shown in the diagram below. Drill holes where the yellow circles are large enough to fit the blade of a sawzall to cut out the siding, install 1/2" hardware cloth and trim the rough edges on the outside with some trim to hide the cut marks on the siding.

 

[TexasWineGuy]

Another suggestion would be to install this Coop Window in that space. These windows come with installed welded wire mesh.

A big benefit of these windows that that since they open from a top hinge you cal leave the window open when it rains and still keep the coop dry.

I have 2 installed on my project coop, and just ordered 2 more for the other wall.

Texas Wine Guy

 

[MRichmond]

I would add a vent on each gable end by cutting a 2x4 and attaching as shown in the diagram below. Drill holes where the yellow circles are large enough to fit the blade of a sawzall to cut out the siding, install 1/2" hardware cloth and trim the rough edges on the outside with some trim to hide the cut marks on the siding.
View attachment 1853951

Another suggestion would be to install this Coop Window in that space. These windows come with installed welded wire mesh.

A big benefit of these windows that that since they open from a top hinge you cal leave the window open when it rains and still keep the coop dry.

Texas Wine Guy

These are both great suggestions! Thank you so much. I wish I’d seen those windows before I bought the single hung windows. Maybe I could return them...

 

[FredsGobblers]

@TexasWineGuy does the window lock in an open position or do you have to hook it to something to keep open?

 

[TexasWineGuy]

@TexasWineGuy does the window lock in an open position or do you have to hook it to something to keep open?

It will stay open in any position you desire. I really like them.

TWG

 

[aart]

Don't get too hung up on the 'numbers'.
Make as much ventilation as you can but keep in mind some of it may need to be closed or dampened in winter.
I'm a big fan of open eave ventilation, you can tack cardboard onto bottoms of rafters from eave up about a foot or so to redirect any drafts there around roost area.
Still scratching my head over how they constructed the eave area.

 

[MRichmond]

Still scratching my head over how they constructed the eave area.

I have a building by the same company today, so I’m getting a firsthand view of how they do the eaves. The walls are assembled first, then the eaves are attached. The walls are then raised into position. Instead of traditional trusses, it will be open to the rafters the same way the chicken coop was built.

 

[Cryss]

You could also add more ventilation using baffles. Here's a shot of mine started.

Basically I utilized the edge of the roof which stuck out over the end. I attached plexiglas to that edge so it totally covered the screened opening and slightly below it without touching it. Plexiglas lets it double as a window. You could open up your gable(s), cover with 1/2 inch hardware cloth. Then attach plexiglass to the roof edge OR attach like a 2x4 above the cut out and along the sides. Then attach plexiglass to those. If you don't need windows just use plywood.

 

[aart]

I have a building by the same company today, so I’m getting a firsthand view of how they do the eaves. The walls are assembled first, then the eaves are attached. The walls are then raised into position. Instead of traditional trusses, it will be open to the rafters the same way the chicken coop was built.

I can see how, just don't understand why.
The rafters sitting on those outriggers has less strength than if they were sitting right on the walls. Also looks like the soffit board goes under the edge of fascia board,
the bottom edge of fascia should be below the soffit material so rain water drips off.