Worming questions - which, when, how often, and how much?

[dawg53]

It's not common to see worms in feces after worming. Normally they are dissolved and absorbed as protein in the digestive system. If there's been an infestation of worms, it's possible there might be one or two excreted. Worms cannot survive outside their host. I've seen pieces of tapeworms excreted after worming, some were flat and some were stringy. I've never seen roundworms excreted after worming.
Insects are the intermediate host for tapeworms. I suggest you look up the tapeworms lifecycle and you'll understand how it works. Then compare the tapeworms lifecycle to a roundworms lifecycle and you'll understand the difference between the two and what's involved.
Having a regular worming schedule is key to preventing worms from depositing eggs onto your soil, effectively stopping their lifecycle. No eggs, no worms. If your chickens get tapeworms you'll know it, you'll see segments in feces that look like white rice. Each segment contains hundreds of eggs and they will be in and on your soil:

 

[11squawkers]

Ok. Well I've never seen anything that looks like that pic, eek! That's good to know that I shouldn't see worms in the poop unless it was bad. Ive seen the diamgrams of both worm life cycles in my Chicken Health Handbook and it does make sense that by worming and disrupting the cycle by eliminating worm eggs that it will reduce the worm population. But unfortunately I cannot keep wildlife out where I live so suppose that's why you need a worming regimen. And I do free range my birds. Thanks for helping me through this first time! It'll only get easier from here!

 

[11squawkers]

Oh, and what about diarrhea after worming? Is that a common side affect? At least 2 girls had some pretty runny poop, one so bad she sprayed the coop wall and it ran down to the floor

 

[NewtonZapple]

Hello BYC members. OK, here we go!
It's my turn to be confused and ask about worming. As we all know there is SO much conflicting information both online and in the few book I have read on poultry health concerning worms and worming regimens, but also some great and helpful info from BYC members that I have decided to worm my flock, although some say there is no need to. (?!)

First my flock consists of:
1 Barred rock hen 4lbs
1 Jersey giant hen 5 lbs
1 Barnevelder hen 4lbs
3 guinea hens 7 - 8 lbs each
3 guinea cocks 7.5 lbs each
1 handicap guinea cock w/slipped tendon 3lbs
Weighed them all yesterday, ugh, so not easy.

These are the various wormers I have acquired over the last few weeks from all the various research and info I've come across but have not yet used anything due to confusion and, I suppose, fear.

Well I have finally decided it just needs to get done and I am thinking to start with valbazen, as my flock has never been wormed and they are now 1 year old. But good to have the others to put into rotation in the worming regimen since I read worms can become resistant to a regularly used wormer.

So begin my questions:
Do I worm the guineas the same as the chickens?

Should I give 0.08ml of valbazen per pound to each bird or do the standard 1/2 cc to the larger and 1/4 to the smaller? ( I do have a small oral syringe for exact ml/cc dosage)

Then given again in 10 days, done same way as the first round.

Withold feed 18 or the full 24 hours prior? Chicken Health handbook says 18, BYC members state 24, what is best and does it matter either way?

I have already blocked access to feed as of 7pm last night.

I am assuming that the birds need to be kept in, not allowed to free range, during this 18-24 hour feed withholding period, is this correct?

And after the dose of valbazen is given how or what feed is reintroduced? I have read to give small amount of mash, plain yogurt, or buttermilk, mash mixed with buttermilk, scrambled eggs, and/or probiotics and other nutrients. I bought the following buttermilk, will this work?

And should I give it straight in a dish or mix with feed to make mash? Give probiotics with it? Or other nutrients/ vitamins? I have Savachick probiotic pack and electrolyte packs, as well as Nutridrench and Rooster booster B 12 vitamins. Don't know if anything would counteract with a wormer?

I will be worming twice a year, spring and fall, since we live in the Sierras in California between Tahoe and Sacramento, which has been pretty warm and dry. But I'd like to know what wormer should I use next? The valbazen again or one of the others? How should the rotation go? And is there any wormers from my picture that is ineffective or should not be used? Some say to use wazine and some say not to but what about in a rotation? And horse paste wormer ok for poultry? (Oh boy)

I know this is kind of a bombardment of questions but its hard to find straight forward info on this topic. I have read so much here on BYC, other online sources, as well as books and it seems it all conflicts and is confusing and frustrating, so sorry to ask all these questions, and/or repeating previously posted questions. This is my first time worming and i just want to get it right and get it done!

So thanks in advance for any and all help. And if i can ask please dont refer me to other pages, as I am pretty certain I have already read it and it wont help just add to the confusion.

Guess I'm basically asking to just please tell me what to do/ what do you think?



ugh and *sigh*

You sound like the best chicken parent in the world! I am going through the very same issues and feeling so overwhelmed about wormer to choose and how/when to administer. You saved me tons of time writing basically all the same questions (although I have no idea how much my chickens weigh or even how to weigh them!

 

[Kiki]

You sound like the best chicken parent in the world! I am going through the very same issues and feeling so overwhelmed about wormer to choose and how/when to administer. You saved me tons of time writing basically all the same questions (although I have no idea how much my chickens weigh or even how to weigh them!

Safe-Guard goat or horse wormer.