Worms or Shed Intestinal Lining - Yucky Pics!!

Anyway, I'm going to try to call the manufacturer. sometimes they will give help over the phone if you ask. I think one of our peahens might be having a bad reaction to it.
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According to the directions, you can store the mixed solution for ninety days.  
does it specify what kind of water to use? With most medications in solution, other contaminants like chlorine, fluoride, calcium, phosphorus, etc. The mixture doesn't keep its efficacy due to being forced out of solution.
With chlorhexidine solution, it stays good for a long time in a tub, but if you use non-deionized water, it becomes cloudy and there's a lot of particulates.
With duramycin, water that is too hard (too much contamination) will render the antibiotic useless.

I wouldn't personally risk it, unless you are using distilled or RO/DI water.
 
does it specify what kind of water to use? With most medications in solution, other contaminants like chlorine, fluoride, calcium, phosphorus, etc. The mixture doesn't keep its efficacy due to being forced out of solution.
With chlorhexidine solution, it stays good for a long time in a tub, but if you use non-deionized water, it becomes cloudy and there's a lot of particulates.
With duramycin, water that is too hard (too much contamination) will render the antibiotic useless.

I wouldn't personally risk it, unless you are using distilled or RO/DI water.
No it doesn't but that is good to know. Thanks. We have well water and obviously it's not pure. The dewormer is so expensive though.
We carefully divided it by measuring and weighing, so we still have some dewormer powder to use later on.
 
No it doesn't but that is good to know.  Thanks.  We have well water and obviously it's not pure. The dewormer is so expensive though. 
We carefully divided it by  measuring and weighing, so we still have some dewormer powder to use later on. 
do you happen to know the pH of your water?
 
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If you're going to have chickens and their feet touch the ground, they WILL get worms. It's a fact and I've been saying that for a long time despite what others might say as you know. Capillary worms are probably the most dangerous worm because they infect chickens by the thousands and we cant see them like most other types of poultry worms. There are basically three types that infect chickens, possibly more. There are two types that infect the lower intestine and one type that infects the crop/esophagus. They will kill a chicken as you've found out. If you look at the symptoms and damage they cause internally, and then read a lot of the problems going on in the emergency forum, I would say worms would be the root cause of many problems because they weaken the birds immune system opening the door for many types of disease to invade their system....we are talking about one TYPE of poultry worm, not including the many other types of worms that chickens get. Your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and they are picked up by your chickens. Think about it, that's what chickens do...peck the soil constantly picking up tiny bits of anything and everything. Here's a link for you to read, a couple of paragraphs about capillary worms and what damage they do internally to a chicken: Scroll down in the link.
http://msucares.com/poultry/diseases/disparas.htm
Also, deep litter coops harbors capillary worms. This is one reason I've never had a deep litter coop, especially down south here.
People readily worm their cats and dogs monthly, yet chickens take a backseat to worming and are more susceptible in getting worms...why not worm a chicken with chemicals just like cats and dogs? It's all about the eggs, no one likes tossing them for a few weeks including me, a small price to pay for healthy chickens. Rotating wormers prevents worm resistance.
There are wormers that are available without withdrawal periods that will get rid of capillary worms; Flubenvet and Rooster Booster wormer which are added to the chickens feed for a period of days. I've never used neither.
http://www.jefferspet.com/rooster-booster-multi-wormer/camid/LIV/cp/16800/

What technique or method can be used in a shaded run to maintain a balance in the soil? (There is no grass) Im in Atlanta and humidity creates a wet soil and their run is shaded. I will treat for worms twice a year, but I would like to know what I can do to help reduce eggs in the soil... Thoughts??
 
Reduce eggs in soil? Keeping the soil as dry as possible, sunshine helps. Sand in the pen is your best bet keeping the soil dry deterring insects and parasites. Sand dries quicker than dirt/mud and doesn't wash away like dirt in a rain storm. Think beach. Poop is much easier to scoop as well.
 
Maybe my post wasn't worded accurately, but I'm glad you understood anyway. I have been adding course sand slowly to the run, it's large so the cost adds up, but I think I'm approaching this the right way. Thanks.
 
Maybe my post wasn't worded accurately, but I'm glad you understood anyway. I have been adding course sand slowly to the run, it's large so the cost adds up, but I think I'm approaching this the right way. Thanks.

Perhaps you can get a nursery or landscaping company to deliver a pickup truck or dump truck load of sand for you; it might be cheaper.
 

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