Wound Care Guidance (What To Use and Why)

XanderWiFi

Songster
Aug 6, 2017
299
346
131
Central Virginia
Many chickens are injured on a daily basis. One of the first recommendations from friendly and supportive chickens lovers is to clean that wound! And rightfully so. But many times with solution A-Z...Some right for the situation, some not, some downright counterproductive to the desired effect/outcome. Here is my breakdown based on personal experience working with my wounded chickens as well as people in the ER/SICU setting along with some added internet research to boot. Much research is conducted regarding the solutions I will detail on both humans and animals to support.

Step 1: Get a Clear Look

You MUST know what kind of wound you are dealing with before applying solutions. The treatment regimen changes depending if the wound is superficial, deep, organ complicated, etc. Clear the blood/debri/etc. with warm water initially. Then use scissors or other more effective item to cut away feathers until you have a clear view of the effected areas all the way to unaffected skin.

Step 2: Identify Wound Extent

Some chemicals and solutions are harmful to deeper wounds/organ involvement. That is why this assessment phase is extremely important. This is also where I am still learning as chicken anatomy obviously differs from human. Humans have much more adipose/fat tissue that is easy to identify in deeper cuts. It also creates more of a buffer; whereas, chickens primary protection is their feathers, then about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of skin surrounding internal organs and their respective spaces. I would love to incorporate additional information on anatomy from responses as applicable.

Step 2a: Superficial Wounds

Light scrapes, scratches, ulcers with small amounts of blood flecked on feathers with some feathers possibly missing. Ask yourself: when pulling lightly at wound edges, is a gap/gape/chasm created? If no, it is likely superficial. Chances are if you have a superficial wound your primary objective will be PROTECTION. Prevention of further injury from the cause of injury and also other birds is the priority here as well as monitoring to ensure proper healing. See step 1 prior to utilizing recommended products.

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS (spray and walk away):
Blue Kote
Chlorhexidine
Betadine/Povidone-Iodine

Step 2b: Deep Wounds

If you pull at wound edges does it create a gap/gape/chasm? Does the assailant use puncture attacks? Hawk/Owl claws, cat jaws, raccoon teeth/claws...Your poor bird was attacked and sliced and diced. A lot of lost feathers, lots-or little blood, but much outward damage. Blood vessels may be visible or flaps of skin hanging.

TREATMENT:
-SEE STEP 1

-IRRIGATE:
Acceptable irrigants: betadine/saline (betadine is toxic to cells), sterile saline, sterile water, potable water, hydrogen peroxide followed by saline/water. The idea behind irrigation is to FLUSH (not rinse, splatter, dribble) debris, bacteria, etc out of the wound to have a clean slate for healing. Note that having a chemical or solution added in does not mean it is better; betadine/saline is no more effective than plain saline in regards to organism reduction in irrigation.

(Xander's home method: flush repeatedly with hydrogen peroxide/tap water combination final rinse with warm tap water. Peroxide is great for debridement; it is terrible for wound healing which is why it is rinsed out.

-CLEANING and INFECTION PREVENTION:
Your wound is flushed and cleaned. It is now time to place a longer lasting microbial killer or plan to keep bacteria away. Ensure dryness by patting with gauze or clean cloth. Wetness/moisture creates an environment for bacterial growth and is to be avoided in wound care except in specific circumstances.

Betadine/Chlorhexidine: "Paint" wound and surrounding area. Note that betadine is more effective over time and must dry. It is important to "paint" the surrounding areas to prevent microbial migration. Start at the wound and "brush" circular away from wounds. Note that betadine/chlorhexidine are for TOPICAL USE ONLY. Chlorhexidine is not even considered for use as an irrigant but is overall more effective than betadine as a paint on; betadine on LARGE wounds can cause kidney injury, increased sodium and metabolic acidosis (bad) as it is absorbed through the skin. Moisture will decrease the efficacy of betadine/chlorhexidine.

Soap and Water: unscented soap, clean warm water and gentle scrubbing is the most recommended way to clean wounds. It will likely be the cheapest but the most involved and difficult on the bird and you; however, very effective.

Triple Antibiotic Ointment/Neosporin (lidocaine free; cream free only): Using a clean q-tip, or clean gloved hand apply and fill wound bed and affected area. The petroleum will act as an extra barrier to organisms but will "melt" over time with body heat.

(Xander's Method: I am confidant in my irrigation and use the triple antibiotic or "3x abx." If I feel it is necessary I will paint with chlor/beta and then apply 3x abx; however, only one method is needed to be effective.

PROTECT and MAINTAIN:
Cover the wound with gauze and secure with kerlix gauze, vet wrap or one of those cute hen shirts people make. The objective is to keep the wound clean, covered and secure. Redress daily or as needed reapplying cleaning method until strong scabbing or granulation (fresh tissue)

NOTE: with puncture wounds, the treatment should be the same but wounds will not be visible and the damage will be underneath more than outward. It is advisable to acquire systemic antibiotics (oral, injections) and anticipate the possibility of an abscess opening up which will have the same treatment regiment AFTER being opened and drained. The real danger with a puncture wound is the unseen damage underneath and systemic infection (sepsis) from bacteria deposited under skin by tooth or claw that cannot be removed by washing/painting.

Step 2c: Wounds With Organ Involvement
Wounds to this extent you must seriously consider the options of euthanasia versus treatment. Treatment will be extensive, taxing on both you, your bird and your resources. It will require specific medical methods and equipment. However, you can find multiple stories of heroic recoveries within this forum. Care in this section will be much of what NOT to do as much as what you can do.

TREATMENT:
-See Step 1. This will be imperative.
-IRRIGATE:
If you suspect organ involvement you must irrigate ONLY with saline or sterile water. If there is no time to sterilize water by boiling, warm tap water it is. Warm solution is preferable as shock is a real threat in these circumstances. You may literally have to peel back chunks of flesh/skin while flushing to enhance your view. Chemical solutions are to be avoided as they may damage internal tissues worsening the situation.

-IDENTIFY:
You do not have to know the exact organ compromised. You just have to identify that there is one compromised. It may be flesh that looks different, bulges, quivers, etc. Continue irrigation to assess

-ORGAN CARE:
Organs must be kept moist. A breach that deep will allow continuous evaporation of bodily fluids further damaging the organ itself and causing dehydration. Every situation is different but if you are unable to get a vet to sew the wound closed, or do it yourself, or if unable to close the wound, it will need to be packed with wet to dry dressings.

Wet to dry dressings provide nominal mechanical debridement but in this situation will provide the moisture to protect the organ/wound. It will consist of soaking sterile gauze in sterile water/saline (specialized items) and layering it within the wound bed finally covered by one layer of dry gauze. It will take a long time, but eventually the cavity will fill in with granulation and scar tissue. A collagenase product within the wound bed can help with faster healing.

SKIN CARE:
You cannot insert deep wound chlor/perox/beta or other chemicals into the organ wound but you can use them on other deep wounds as antimicrobial agents. Peroxide is NOT recommended for an antiseptic. "Paint" the chlorhexidine/betadine to the wound edges and surrounding tissue but do not apply to internal organs/body cavity as this will have negative effects on internal tissue.

SEPSIS PREVENTION:
Triple Antibiotic Ointment is not recommended for application to internal organs as well. Sepsis, or "blood poisoning/infection" will be a very real concern. Systemic antibiotics will be required and mode of delivery will be dependent upon organ compromise. Strict handwashing, clean/sterile wound care technique and environmental control will be needed to aid in the prevention of infection.

MORE TO COME IN FUTURE EDITS: ORGAN INVOLVED WOUNDS, ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE TREATMENTS, CONTINUED ORGANIZATION AND INCORPORATION OF CHICKEN EXPERT ADVICE. PICTURES DETAILING DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN TYPES OF WOUNDS. ALL HELP WELCOME.
 
Last edited:
I am glad to see this article written. I was amazed recently to see a chicken wounded in a way that seemed to involve the chest cavity and lungs from what I thought would be a superficial through and through type of bite. Regardless, the simple wound turned into something I would never flush vs suture in drains in an instant. I do recommend you turn this into an article on chicken Trauma care vs a simple post. I trust you to do it right!
 
Many chickens are injured on a daily basis. One of the first recommendations from friendly and supportive chickens lovers is to clean that wound! And rightfully so. But many times with solution A-Z...Some right for the situation, some not, some downright counterproductive to the desired effect/outcome. Here is my breakdown based on personal experience working with my wounded chickens as well as people in the ER/SICU setting along with some added internet research to boot. Much research is conducted regarding the solutions I will detail on both humans and animals to support.

Step 1: Get a Clear Look

You MUST know what kind of wound you are dealing with before applying solutions. The treatment regimen changes depending if the wound is superficial, deep, organ complicated, etc. Clear the blood/debri/etc. with warm water initially. Then use scissors or other more effective item to cut away feathers until you have a clear view of the effected areas all the way to unaffected skin.

Step 2: Identify Wound Extent

Some chemicals and solutions are harmful to deeper wounds/organ involvement. That is why this assessment phase is extremely important. This is also where I am still learning as chicken anatomy obviously differs from human. Humans have much more adipose/fat tissue that is easy to identify in deeper cuts. It also creates more of a buffer; whereas, chickens primary protection is their feathers, then about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of skin surrounding internal organs and their respective spaces. I would love to incorporate additional information on anatomy from responses as applicable.

Step 2a: Superficial Wounds

Light scrapes, scratches, ulcers with small amounts of blood flecked on feathers with some feathers possibly missing. Ask yourself: when pulling lightly at wound edges, is a gap/gape/chasm created? If no, it is likely superficial. Chances are if you have a superficial wound your primary objective will be PROTECTION. Prevention of further injury from the cause of injury and also other birds is the priority here as well as monitoring to ensure proper healing. See step 1 prior to utilizing recommended products.

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS (spray and walk away):
Blue Kote
Chlorhexidine
Betadine/Povidone-Iodine

Step 2b: Deep Wounds

If you pull at wound edges does it create a gap/gape/chasm? Does the assailant use puncture attacks? Hawk/Owl claws, cat jaws, raccoon teeth/claws...Your poor bird was attacked and sliced and diced. A lot of lost feathers, lots-or little blood, but much outward damage. Blood vessels may be visible or flaps of skin hanging.

TREATMENT:
-SEE STEP 1

-IRRIGATE:
Acceptable irrigants: betadine/saline (betadine is toxic to cells), sterile saline, sterile water, potable water, hydrogen peroxide followed by saline/water. The idea behind irrigation is to FLUSH (not rinse, splatter, dribble) debris, bacteria, etc out of the wound to have a clean slate for healing. Note that having a chemical or solution added in does not mean it is better; betadine/saline is no more effective than plain saline in regards to organism reduction in irrigation.

(Xander's home method: flush repeatedly with hydrogen peroxide/tap water combination final rinse with warm tap water. Peroxide is great for debridement; it is terrible for wound healing which is why it is rinsed out.

-CLEANING and INFECTION PREVENTION:
Your wound is flushed and cleaned. It is now time to place a longer lasting microbial killer or plan to keep bacteria away. Ensure dryness by patting with gauze or clean cloth. Wetness/moisture creates an environment for bacterial growth and is to be avoided in wound care except in specific circumstances.

Betadine/Chlorhexidine: "Paint" wound and surrounding area. Note that betadine is more effective over time and must dry. It is important to "paint" the surrounding areas to prevent microbial migration. Start at the wound and "brush" circular away from wounds. Note that betadine/chlorhexidine are for TOPICAL USE ONLY. Chlorhexidine is not even considered for use as an irrigant but is overall more effective than betadine as a paint on; betadine on LARGE wounds can cause kidney injury, increased sodium and metabolic acidosis (bad) as it is absorbed through the skin. Moisture will decrease the efficacy of betadine/chlorhexidine.

Soap and Water: unscented soap, clean warm water and gentle scrubbing is the most recommended way to clean wounds. It will likely be the cheapest but the most involved and difficult on the bird and you; however, very effective.

Triple Antibiotic Ointment/Neosporin (lidocaine free; cream free only): Using a clean q-tip, or clean gloved hand apply and fill wound bed and affected area. The petroleum will act as an extra barrier to organisms but will "melt" over time with body heat.

(Xander's Method: I am confidant in my irrigation and use the triple antibiotic or "3x abx." If I feel it is necessary I will paint with chlor/beta and then apply 3x abx; however, only one method is needed to be effective.

PROTECT and MAINTAIN:
Cover the wound with gauze and secure with kerlix gauze, vet wrap or one of those cute hen shirts people make. The objective is to keep the wound clean, covered and secure. Redress daily or as needed reapplying cleaning method until strong scabbing or granulation (fresh tissue)

NOTE: with puncture wounds, the treatment should be the same but wounds will not be visible and the damage will be underneath more than outward. It is advisable to acquire systemic antibiotics (oral, injections) and anticipate the possibility of an abscess opening up which will have the same treatment regiment AFTER being opened and drained. The real danger with a puncture wound is the unseen damage underneath and systemic infection (sepsis) from bacteria deposited under skin by tooth or claw that cannot be removed by washing/painting.

Step 2c: Wounds With Organ Involvement
Wounds to this extent you must seriously consider the options of euthanasia versus treatment. Treatment will be extensive, taxing on both you, your bird and your resources. It will require specific medical methods and equipment. However, you can find multiple stories of heroic recoveries within this forum. Care in this section will be much of what NOT to do as much as what you can do.

TREATMENT:
-See Step 1. This will be imperative.
-IRRIGATE:
If you suspect organ involvement you must irrigate ONLY with saline or sterile water. If there is no time to sterilize water by boiling, warm tap water it is. Warm solution is preferable as shock is a real threat in these circumstances. You may literally have to peel back chunks of flesh/skin while flushing to enhance your view. Chemical solutions are to be avoided as they may damage internal tissues worsening the situation.

-IDENTIFY:
You do not have to know the exact organ compromised. You just have to identify that there is one compromised. It may be flesh that looks different, bulges, quivers, etc. Continue irrigation to assess

-ORGAN CARE:
Organs must be kept moist. A breach that deep will allow continuous evaporation of bodily fluids further damaging the organ itself and causing dehydration. Every situation is different but if you are unable to get a vet to sew the wound closed, or do it yourself, or if unable to close the wound, it will need to be packed with wet to dry dressings.

Wet to dry dressings provide nominal mechanical debridement but in this situation will provide the moisture to protect the organ/wound. It will consist of soaking sterile gauze in sterile water/saline (specialized items) and layering it within the wound bed finally covered by one layer of dry gauze. It will take a long time, but eventually the cavity will fill in with granulation and scar tissue. A collagenase product within the wound bed can help with faster healing.

SKIN CARE:
You cannot insert deep wound chlor/perox/beta or other chemicals into the organ wound but you can use them on other deep wounds as antimicrobial agents. Peroxide is NOT recommended for an antiseptic. "Paint" the chlorhexidine/betadine to the wound edges and surrounding tissue but do not apply to internal organs/body cavity as this will have negative effects on internal tissue.

SEPSIS PREVENTION:
Triple Antibiotic Ointment is not recommended for application to internal organs as well. Sepsis, or "blood poisoning/infection" will be a very real concern. Systemic antibiotics will be required and mode of delivery will be dependent upon organ compromise. Strict handwashing, clean/sterile wound care technique and environmental control will be needed to aid in the prevention of infection.

MORE TO COME IN FUTURE EDITS: ORGAN INVOLVED WOUNDS, ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE TREATMENTS, CONTINUED ORGANIZATION AND INCORPORATION OF CHICKEN EXPERT ADVICE. PICTURES DETAILING DIFFERENTIATING BETWEEN TYPES OF WOUNDS. ALL HELP WELCOME.
Thank you! This is an excellent article. I have printed it out and am keeping it in my Emergency folder.
 

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