Year 2

Kyle Boisseau

Chirping
Jan 18, 2018
21
57
69
Lewisburg, Kentucky
I started early last spring with 18 chicks and I’ve currently got 15 amazing free range layers. I lost 1 to a hawk, and two disappeared (I’m assuming fox, I’ve seen him around). Looking to add a few more to my flock this spring (6-8) but need some advice on introducing new girls to existing ones. I can easily keep them separate the first 6-8 weeks while in the brooder, but at the moment don’t have a way to separate them once I move them to the coop. Is this something that I’ll need to do and at when point can they start mingling? I do not have a rooster at this point.
 
I started early last spring with 18 chicks and I’ve currently got 15 amazing free range layers. I lost 1 to a hawk, and two disappeared (I’m assuming fox, I’ve seen him around). Looking to add a few more to my flock this spring (6-8) but need some advice on introducing new girls to existing ones. I can easily keep them separate the first 6-8 weeks while in the brooder, but at the moment don’t have a way to separate them once I move them to the coop. Is this something that I’ll need to do and at when point can they start mingling? I do not have a rooster at this point.
Do you have enough room to set up the brooder in your coop? That way the chicks can grow up around the flock and flock can get to know them as they mature. It will make integrating them easier.
 
Do you have enough room to set up the brooder in your coop? That way the chicks can grow up around the flock and flock can get to know them as they mature. It will make integrating them easier.
Room..yes..heat source no. My coop is a ways from my house with no power source. I’m in Kentucky and it’s usually late April, early May before it’s warm enough for 8 week old chicks.
 
I’ve got a run that I made before I decided to free range. I’ll just have to make them a separate entrance and roost. Coop is plent big. Thanks!
I generally pen mine for about a week so everyone gets a look at them through the fence. After a week I open up the door and do supervised mingling for a bit before rounding them up again. I do that each day leaving them out longer and longer. Generally after a week or two I feel comfortable enough leaving them out for the day without supervision. I just round them up at night for another few weeks before leaving the door open.
 
research a wooly hen, I have a lengthy post on it. I don't have electricity, and had my chicks out in it by week 3 I think. Set up a one way fence, and really it was not an issue at all.

Mrs. K
 
Room..yes..heat source no. My coop is a ways from my house with no power source. I’m in Kentucky and it’s usually late April, early May before it’s warm enough for 8 week old chicks.
How far, in feet? Any chance of using a heavy duty outdoor rated extension cord for a few weeks?
They won't need heat after about 4-5 weeks.
I like to brood and integrate when chicks are young, much easier than when they are older, tho it takes some prep of a good space.

This is how I do it...and there's some links near the bottom of simpler setups:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/integrating-new-birds-at-4-weeks-old.72603/

I still follow the.......
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom