Your opinions please...

[fhdogs]

I'm getting ready to place my order for chicks, and I really need some assistance.

I'm sure this question has been asked before, but I'd like to get your opinions on my circumstances.

I'm limiting myself to an order of 25 chicks. Which will allow 4sq per bird, not including two or three "rooms" where I can separate birds if needed (such as a hen settling) and a very large run area. I'd really like a variety of breeds to help keep things interesting and because my fiancee would really like some fancy birds. Hopefully by doing so I can also keep her interested in caring for them with me.

I would prefer breeds that are likely to be broody as I'd like to have the ability to increase my flock naturally. Another concern is temperature. Although my coop will be insulated, and there will be power available, for obvious reasons I'd like to have the best chance of making it through the long Vermont winters.

One other factor is what is available to be ordered at a given time, but hopefully your great suggestions will provide enough insight to fill an order of layers I'll be placing soon.

So what would you get? 25 birds, mix-and-match as you please....

EDIT: I figured I should indicate my preferences in order of priority:
1. Good laying
2. Likelihood of going broody
3. Fancy, pretty, etc.
4. Cold hardiness (coop will be very well contained for winter, however I'd like them to still go out)

 

[Sonoran Silkies]

4 sq ft is not enough space if that also includes the run, unles you are getting all very small bantams.

Brahmas, rocks and silkies should be on your list. The first two are available as either large fowl or bantam. Consider faverolles, EE, marans.

Look through somehting like Extraordinary Chickens with your fiancee to see what interests her. Even better, take her to a poultry show and look at a variety of breeds. Talk to exhibitors, maybe purchase a bird or so there.

 

[fhdogs]

Thanks Sonoran, The 4sq feet does not include the run. The main room itself will be a little over 100 sq. feet. The entire coop will be 200 sq total, but I only plan to use half of it for chicks this year.

I am trying to get her to go to some "nearby" swaps, but unfortunately there are not many that are that close right now.

 

[Glenda L Heywood]

You could get silkies or cochins
they are winter hardy and will generally set eggs
especially silkies
here is a article on
daily needs of chickens


Chickens and their daily needs
Chickens and Their Daily Needs
by Chickman


Ms Heywood
For your readers of NPN I want to send this information.
Chickens can be a lot of fun to raise. I have had
several layer breeds, some exhibition breeds, and
also specialty breeds. Out of the different types
that I have raised, I would have to say that the
multi-purpose layers are the easiest to care for and
have the best disposition. I like the Rhode Island
Reds the best, as they are fairly docile and good
egg producers.

If you are fortunate enough to get some that still
have the instinct to brood chicks, they do a pretty
fair job of hatching and rearing. The ones that I
have raised, averaged five eggs per week per hen.
Without artificial light, they layed
approximately 180 eggs per hen during their first
laying season. The eggs are brown in color, and of
medium size.

I am currently raising Silver Sebright Bantams.
These are exhibition quality and I am hoping to
raise and exhibit even better specimens. I have also
raised Gamefowl and really enjoyed them for their
beauty and stamina. The hens were used for brooding
the eggs from the Sebrights, as well as their
own. The cockerels must be separated at an early age
due to their fighting instincts.

They start sparring when only weeks old. I also raise
Racing Homer Pigeons. They are fun to have,
as they are easier to tame than the chickens. I can
hold out my hand to them with some feed in it and
they will fly to my hand or arm to get the feed.

Chickens need shelter from the the elements and
protection from preditors. This is normally in the
form of housing of wood construction and an outdoor
run with poultry wire sides and top. It is
important that the chickens roost in the coop with
the door closed to protect them from nighttime
preditors unless the pen is constructed with heavy
guage welded wire.

It is much more expensive than poultry wire, but,
it will withstand the attempts of destruction by most
any predator. The design of the coop is based on
size, quantity, and type of chickens being housed.
Layers require nest boxes in which to lay there
eggs. The roost is designed to accommodate the number
being housed in relation to the size of coop.

In other words, enough space to keep them close
together during cold weather and also to give them
more space during hot weather. The coop needs to be
ventilated to allow fresh air to flow through it to
keep it free of moisture and ammonia. Ammonia is in
their droppings and the odor will continue to build
if the moisture level is too high.

I design my coops with cross ventilation and they
are fine for my climatic conditions. Using pine
shavings on the floor of the coop, is an important
part in the moisture equation. Some people use hay
or straw; not as absorbant as the shavings and can
harbor molds. Shavings are actually less expensive
than hay or straw and has to be replaced less often.


The most important of all the needs of chickens is
fresh water daily. The water container should be
cleaned daily to eliminate bacteria. I clean these
with a bleach/water solution at least once weekly. I
use 1 teaspoon of bleach per 1 gallon of fresh water
as their daily water supply, since I live in a rural
area and use well water. City water does not require
the bleach as an additive.

Stale water is not good for them and if it is left
in direct sunlight, can form Algae. Algae
poisoning is common in poorly managed conditions.
Lack of fresh water can cause death, primarily from
salt poisoning. Chickens can die from salt overdose
within hours.

Feed must contain the proper amount of protein for
the needs of the particular type of chicken and it's
age. Commercial feeds are formulated to meet those
needs. Layer chicks require medicated chick
starter for the first eight weeks of their lives and
a developer until eighteen weeks of age; gradually
change their rations to layer crumbles or pellets.
Broiler chicks, sporting birds, and specialty flocks
require different rations that are especially
formulated for them.

Mixing of these feeds, causes an imbalance of the
protein and is not recommended. "Scratch Feed" is
used by many as a way to reduce costs, but, egg
production drops and the hens are not in prime
condition when this is done. I consider this type of
feed to be a treat and give it to them periodically
as a second meal in the day.

I also like to give my chickens lots of greens in
their diet. The greens are nutritious and adds color
to the yolks of their eggs. I give them fruit, also.
They love to see me coming with banana peels or apple
peels.

The chickens need some variety in their lives just
as people do, to avoid boredom. Chickens that are
confined to the same location each day, start bad
habits to overcome their boredom. Overcrowding is
another reason for bad habits. I have designed a
Mobile Unit to help eliminate these problems and to
give them access to fresh ground as needed.

This unit can house up to eight hens and gives them
security from predators. Since it has an optional
wheel assembly, I can easily move it and the
chickens as needed.

The health of the chickens can be enhanced by
maintaining a good environment for them. This does
not eliminate the possibility for them to become ill.
One should be prepared for the common illnesses and
implement a preventive maintenance program from the
onset. Chickens that are in contact with the
ground are susceptible to worms, and should be
treated with a wormer if they show signs of an
overload of these parasites.

Mites and lice are also a common problem that
can be remedied before they become a problem. If you
give them garlic on a monthly basis, both of
the above problems will be minimized. I administer
1/8 teaspoon of powdered garlic per gallon of water
as their sole source of drinking water once per
month.

The coop should be kept clean and free of drafts,
to reduce the possibility of respiratory diseases.
You should also practice Biosecurity to minimize the
risk of diseases being brought in from other flocks.

There are some things that you can do to get the
maximum enjoyment from your flock. Spend some
time with them each day, and they will learn to
accept you as part of the flock. You should be able
to pick up any of them to inspect for potential
problems, and petting. The more you pet them, the
more they like it.

You should read several books on how to raise them;
I say several, as none of them cover everything you
need to know. I have enjoyed the writings of Gail
Damerow. She has written several good books on
poultry and an excellent book on their health; "The
Chicken Health Handbook".

Something else you may elect to do is, join a
poultry club in your area. There are many clubs
nationwide, but sorry to say, they do very little
advertising. Some of them have monthly meetings.. The
meetings are times when we can get together and
discuss our poultry and ways to improve on their
environment.

Most of the members exhibit their poultry at the
shows throughout the year. The shows are excellent
avenues for learning about quality of the many
breeds. The breeders usually have some of their stock
to sell during or after the show.

It is a great way to purchase new stock. All
the entries have been tested for Pollorum and
Typhoid and that is a huge step in the direction of
healthy chickens. It is good practice to quarantine
newly purchased poultry for thirty days.

This will give you sufficient time to determine their
health and habits. When you do put them in with the
rest of the flock, a new pecking order will
be established. This could cause damage to some of
them, and should be monitored until they have
adjusted.

There are several techniques to use to minimize the
aggressiveness. One way is to put the new ones in a
wire cage within the coop for a few days. Release
them at night and put them on the roost with
the others. Monitor them the next day and if one or
two of the original hens are still too
aggressive, then put them in the cage for a few
days. This should take care of any further problems.

I hope this information will help you maximize your
poultry enjoyment.
Chickman

Hope this mans article will help you with these chicks you tend to get

 

[chickNjake]

I would also consider Wyandottes

 

[Hotwings]

Buff Orpingtons-they are a all around good bird, quiet, docile, good brooders and layers. I like Australorps too and they are quite similar to the the Buffs. If you are looking to raise your own chicks you will need a roo and I have heard the roos of these breeds are docile too. One thing bad about these breeds is that once they hatch their chicks and wean them, they have a tendency to go broody again, I like barred rocks too but they don't go broody as well as the buffs or the australorps.