Back yard rabbit group anyone?

I am so happy I found an active group for bunnies! I am picking up two giant flemish babies on Wednesday! Brother and sister!
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Hi all, I am no professional but have nearly 50 years in rabbits and fowl As a family over a 100 years of experience. Very few problems and I will give some helpful advice . I didn't know this area was on BYC so maybe I can help. I raise meat rabbits, and have had 7 does and 2 bucks, would dress out up to 50 at a time, never bread them hard, always had 2 or more bred at the same time. Have had excellent success in fostering out large litters to other mothers with less. And never practiced culling a litter down to 8 like some pros do ( large at 8 weeks, this is standard butchering age or food to weight gain goes down dramatically) A new Zealand doe, from day bred, litter of 8, at 8 week old will eat 100 pounds of feed. These dress out to just over 2 1/4 pounds, less kidneys and liver. I am now in my 50's and only raise enough for my family, not to mention arthritis is so bad in my hands, I can only do maybe 10 at a time now. Old man time sure takes his tole. I feed nature wise, any good feed will work follow the guide lines, a fat doe wont breed. My does and bucks get 6 ounces a day an timothy grass hay, ( NOT ALFALFA, ITS TO RICH AND WILL GIVE THEM THE RUNS) A plastic resting pad is highly recommend to save you from sore hocks. BASS cage equipment sells anything you could want as well as Fleming Outdoors.
I raise chicory and radish tops for them and my chickens and quail. Give any part of dandelions to them YARD MUST NOT BE TREATED . there ARE MANY SITES FOR MEDICINAL PLANTS AND FOODS FOR RABBITS ON LINE THESE DAYS.
A couple post back, one had a doe on her 35th day at the time with no babies. False pregnancy. I check my does before placing them with the buck. A light pink vulva, she wont breed, a purplish color and she will readily breed, even trying to mess with the buck. I let them breed 3 times. then put her back in her cage. ALWAYS PUT DOE WITH BUCK, NOT BUCK TO DOES CAGE. SHE CAN CASTRATE HIM. If you want to breed year round, add lighting have 12-14 hours of light a day. Like all critters, day light hours controls breeding. I have had litters at -20 here in outside rabbi-tries. Babes were warm as toast, frost on the top of nest hair. Of course any that stay on the teat when she leaves her nest box die quickly. That's the trade off. I sold more than I could produce. If I can help anyone PM me or, I will try to keep track of this on here. good luck all.

PS, this back yard rabbit group is a good idea. Thanks BYC for having such an openness to all subjects. firestomp
 
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I am just getting into rabbits. I bought a buck and two does, New Zealand, this spring. I didn't have any luck with the babies once they were born, all died within the first day. Both my females have since passed, and the buck is still around. I am looking to get a few more does soon. Not planning on breeding until spring though.

Great idea for this group!
 
use your AG agency to find local breeders, Buy young stock2-4 months old. Look the place over as you are there, if it isn't well kept, thank them for their time and move on. Contact your local 4H, they will have many contacts for any breed. I have done searches for Indiana breeders on line, gives name and usually a number as well as location and breeds. Expect to pay $20 , more for registered animals. Raise them to 6 months before first breeding (this is only what I do, not gospel) feed only as much as the bag says for your breed, My New Zealand's and Californians get 6 ounces a day. ONE TIME ONLY, feed sweet things apples, carrots and such as treats in small portions, all has sugars in it and of course turns to fat. NO HEAD LETTUCE will cause the poops. Feed all the Timothy grass hay you wish, not alfalfa. Hope this helps. Don't take any older animals, if they were good stock, the owner wouldn't be getting rid of them. Provide a nest box, with straw. I made mine from ply wood, Keep the front nearly as high as sides or you will have babes out and they will die on the wire from chill. First litters, expect anything. Could be no problem, could be she will have them on the wire, pull very little hair, even eat them. Remember this is all new to them. I keep extra hair for just such needs. Have had great success in fostering to another doe who has just had a litter. Just place them in that nest box, the others and moms scent will cover their old one quickly. Pet them and handle them, an animal that size is easier to move to bucks cage to breed if it already has been handled. also keeps them relaxed after the litter is born, wait 2 days to check and count them. Good luck. All of my stock is for food or pleasure, heck, we even have 4 drake camble ducks for the heck of it and the Bob Whites are near my bed room window and back porch just for their beauty and song.
 
Is shipping rabbits a thing? And why do you wait 6 months to breed?
You need the doe to be mature enough before breeding so she can produce a litter and care for it. Some of the mini breeds may be bred before five or six months. You will have to look that up. I only raised New Zealands and I bred them between five and six months of age.
 
You need the doe to be mature enough before breeding so she can produce a litter and care for it. Some of the mini breeds may be bred before five or six months. You will have to look that up. I only raised New Zealands and I bred them between five and six months of age.

Ah that's it, I remember when I raised some lionheads I did not wait 6 months... I can not remember how old they were but they were parents size and it was earlier than 6 months. I did used to raise American Chinchillas but I got my doe when she was full grown so I never knew how old she was.
 

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