BYC members in Massachusetts?

They have a no-spill feeder in the coop that's always full with dry feed as is, and in addition to that, when I have time, I bring them a bowl of that same feed mixed with water, until it reaches the clumpy consistency of wet sand. For some reason they LOVE that and eat it like it's treats :lol: I make it with cold water in the summer, to help them cool off, and with hot water in the winter, so it's steamy warm by the time I take it out and it can help them warm up from the inside. Not that they really need it - they are wrapped in down coats - but I imagine it must feel nice on a cold morning. This is my way of giving them "treats" without actually giving them treats and compromising their nutrition. It's our hangout time - I sit with them, they eat it out of my hands, then they hang out with me and we have a nice chat about life.
Love the idea of cold and hot for the weather. I look forward to hand feeding and chicken philosophy :)
 
Hello neighbors. I live in the shadow of Gillette stadium. I have only bought feed from Ventura. You see their trucks delivering feed to farms on 495, 95 and rte 24. I find it fresh, the people great and my dog loves to visit them. The chick starter is very fine. But the chicks only get that for about 4 weeks. Then grower until they are all laying. When the hens are in laying season, I feed layer pellets. For the winter, I switch them to Game bird pellets. This has worked well for me and the girls. YMMV.
What's the benefit of the game bird feed in the winter? The higher protein? I'll check out Ventura, it's maybe half an hour from me which is certainly reasonable. Thanks for the tip!
 
What's the benefit of the game bird feed in the winter? The higher protein? I'll check out Ventura, it's maybe half an hour from me which is certainly reasonable. Thanks for the tip!
As an earlier poster mentioned their layer feed is 16% protein, which seems to have worked for my girls. I do keep a container of oyster shell and grit available all year round. So in the winter months when they are molting and not laying, I switch them for a few months to game bird (20% Protein, 3.5% Fat & 4.5% Fiber Max) I started early morning lighting recently. Some of the girl's combs are getting red again and am hopeful eggs are on their way. In January I will likely switch back to layer. I also like the pellets as it seems like less waste. Hope this helps.
 
What's the benefit of the game bird feed in the winter? The higher protein? I'll check out Ventura, it's maybe half an hour from me which is certainly reasonable. Thanks for the tip!
Some people use game bird feed for the higher protein, if their layer feed is too low and they don't have other options, like an all flock type of feed that's higher in protein. 16% is what the egg industry has determined to be the bare minimum they can get away with and still get eggs in the short term, but they aren't interested in the hens' long term or overall health, since they only use them for 1-2 seasons when they're most productive, then discard them. And since that's the industry standard, a lot of feed brands just go along with that, so it's a common protein percentage in layer feed. It could work for your flock, or it could not - some people see signs of protein deficiency, like feather picking and eating, difficulty or slowness regrowing feathers after molt, etc. 20% protein is a better feed overall, for all ages and all seasons, because it provides enough extra protein to cover heavy protein needs like egg production or feather growth, but it's not so much that it starts becoming a problem (for example the meat bird feeds that are 22-24% protein are too much for regular chickens - they were meant to put on muscle mass fast for fast-growing broilers). So, while you may be fine with 16%, you will definitely be better off with 20%, so in that situation, if I had the choice, I'd choose better safe than sorry and go with 20%.
 
As an earlier poster mentioned their layer feed is 16% protein, which seems to have worked for my girls. I do keep a container of oyster shell and grit available all year round. So in the winter months when they are molting and not laying, I switch them for a few months to game bird (20% Protein, 3.5% Fat & 4.5% Fiber Max) I started early morning lighting recently. Some of the girl's combs are getting red again and am hopeful eggs are on their way. In January I will likely switch back to layer. I also like the pellets as it seems like less waste. Hope this helps.
Got it, thank you. I haven't decided if I'll work toward winter laying or not yet -- probably think about it once the ladies have arrived and see how they do over summer and into fall. But this info is great to have!
 
Some people use game bird feed for the higher protein, if their layer feed is too low and they don't have other options, like an all flock type of feed that's higher in protein. 16% is what the egg industry has determined to be the bare minimum they can get away with and still get eggs in the short term, but they aren't interested in the hens' long term or overall health, since they only use them for 1-2 seasons when they're most productive, then discard them. And since that's the industry standard, a lot of feed brands just go along with that, so it's a common protein percentage in layer feed. It could work for your flock, or it could not - some people see signs of protein deficiency, like feather picking and eating, difficulty or slowness regrowing feathers after molt, etc. 20% protein is a better feed overall, for all ages and all seasons, because it provides enough extra protein to cover heavy protein needs like egg production or feather growth, but it's not so much that it starts becoming a problem (for example the meat bird feeds that are 22-24% protein are too much for regular chickens - they were meant to put on muscle mass fast for fast-growing broilers). So, while you may be fine with 16%, you will definitely be better off with 20%, so in that situation, if I had the choice, I'd choose better safe than sorry and go with 20%.
Healthy birds are definitely a priority, so I'll be sure to go for the higher protein rather than the "minimum" (ugh it feels so sad to know how poor the commercial poultry industry really is -- and my partner worked in local sustainable agriculture, so it's not like we're unaware!).

I've added a "flock raiser" feed at 20% to my shopping list for when the time comes, and will continue paying attention to what works and what doesn't for them.

Silly question here but... it's still OK to occasionally supplement the feed with treats like black soldier flies or mealworms, right? Emphasis on the occasionally.
 
Silly question here but... it's still OK to occasionally supplement the feed with treats like black soldier flies or mealworms, right? Emphasis on the occasionally.
Yep, occasionally is fine, and in small amounts. How occasionally, depends to some extent on the breeds, too. Some breeds are more prone to obesity than others. I have giant English Orpingtons and it seems like no matter what I do, they are always fat... But the Barnevelders that they live with, who eat the exact same food and treats, are always effortlessly slim. Just like with people, some are just luckier than others in that regard :lol:
 
Anybody in the area south of Boston got fertile eggs they could sell and I could pick up?

I am most interested in Australorps, Barred Rock and/or Dominiques. I can be flexible but I really think 4 eggs will cover my needs.

Any ideas, folks? thanks in advance.
 

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