Cookie Tin water heater

[BMaverick]

Yes, and with the high auto-ignition point of wood combined with a lack of oxygen supply in the enclosure, even if the surfaces somehow reached 800F, a fire could not be sustained. The surface would likely char and that would be the end of it. I used the cement board to provide an extra safety margin with my large and hot 120V bulbs, but it was probably overkill.

I am wondering, however, if your 12V automotive bulbs will be warm enough, but that depends on your lowest ambient temps. Does it get down to 0F where your are?

Our average winter temps sit around 36F. The lowest can reach down to 22F by Feb. and the higher can hit 56F still before early Jan. The winters here usually sees very little snow. If it happens, the snow is gone before the evening sun setting.

 

[aoxa]

Has anyone ever electrocuted themselves with this?

My fiance went to plug one in, and she got a nasty shock.

Also, where can I find really big bases? I need one large enough to sit my big waterer on, but the only tins I can get at the dollar store just fit in the centre of the waterer, and the edges are not being heated.

 

[TNBEARCHICK]

Target has some but they are $5

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

Quote: That would be a problem with the insulation on the cord, or a bad job of wiring the connections.
If done PROPERLY it's totally safe

 

[aoxa]

My fiance went to plug one in, and she got a nasty shock.

 

That would be a problem with the insulation on the cord, or a bad job of wiring the connections.
If done PROPERLY it's totally safe

It could have been the extension cord we plugged it into as well. But it sure scared her

 

[laturcotte1]

I have feral cats they have hard food 24/7 but at night get soft canned food. I feed them around 2pm but if they are late sometimes the food freezes and they can't eat it.. I'm wondering...ummm...I would have 3 dishes to heat. Could I place a heavy ceramic dish on top of each ontainer and do you think it would keep the food heat but not making it too hot to eat?

 

[WinterLadyAK]

I, too, have a bucket waterer with "broiler" nipples on the bottom. The ones I use have stainless steel plungers (valves) that move up and down. Because they are steel, they will conduct heat as well as give up heat, which yours are doing by freezing up.

Just my opinion, but I think you should abandon the idea of attempting to heat the bucket nipples from below with a direct radiant heat source: If it's hot enough to be effective, it will be too hot for your chickens and therefore a hazard. The only safe approach would be to blow warm air through a duct and grate from below the floor, which could be complicated and expensive. You might as well install a central heating system in the coop and be done with it.

Therefore, if you can make the water warmer (by the addition of an aquarium heater, for example) or retain more of its heat by adding insulation around and on top of the bucket, then the water will lose less heat through the bucket sides and top, and the plungers will stay warmer (through conduction) with a reduced likelihood of freezing. What say you about that?

I agree with you, I just wanted to make sure I was completely understanding Bear Foot Farm's suggestion. We don't have the nipples out there any more, we've been using the cookie tin water heater with a fountain waterer on top of it, which is working decently right now. The nipple bucket did have a bucket de-icer (same idea as aquarium heater) so the temperature of the water in the bucket was not the problem, it certainly wouldn't hurt to further insulate the bucket I may do that since I will be going back to the nipples if the temperatures ever get into positive digits again but it's always good to have a backup plan (cookie tin)!

 

[Hooligans7]

I have feral cats they have hard food 24/7 but at night get soft canned food. I feed them around 2pm but if they are late sometimes the food freezes and they can't eat it.. I'm wondering...ummm...I would have 3 dishes to heat. Could I place a heavy ceramic dish on top of each ontainer and do you think it would keep the food heat but not making it too hot to eat?

Well, that depends. Definitely invest in a Thermo Cube, Model TC-3. It's a thermostatically controlled outlet device (shaped like a triple tap) that you plug into an outlet. Model TC-3 automatically switches on when the ambient temp is 35F, then switches off at 45F.

However, even with a Thermo Cube, you must use light bulbs of the appropriate wattage so as to 1) be effective at preventing freeze up, and 2) not overheat the food. The choice of wattage you use is based on your anticipated lowest ambient temperature, and whether the food dishes are in a wind-protected area or not. You may have to experiment a bit with 25-Watt, 40-Watt, 60-Watt, etc., bulbs to achieve a good balance.

PS: The Thermo Cube features two outlets, so you would need an extension cord with a triple tap or buy a second Thermo Cube in order to supply power to three heaters.

 

[BMaverick]

Target has some but they are $5

Big Lots has square tins that are 6x6 by 3-in high for $3. It's the one with the holly on the tin cover. They also have a large bucket size tin about 1-ft tall and about 9-in diameter that holds flavored popcorn for a mere $5.50.

 

[Bear Foot Farm]

Quote: It only has to keep things above 32 degrees, so not a lot of heat is needed
It is NOT a radiant heat source if set up as I described, but would actually be the same convection you're saying is needed, but without having to use a fan