Feral Meat Rabbits came wit Property

You can give rabbits baths, you just have to be very careful not to shock them or have the water too high. We always gave our show rabbits baths before packing them up
Rabbit have an incredibly high risk of going into shock or getting hypothermia if given a bath
The rabbit might be "ok" or he might die it's just really not a risk worth taking
 
Rabbit have an incredibly high risk of going into shock or getting hypothermia if given a bath
The rabbit might be "ok" or he might die it's just really not a risk worth taking
There are certain circumstances where a half bath may be necessary such as as splay legs but rabbit should never be fully submerged
 
We have American Chinchilla rabbits, and the “grey” ones look like ours....although scale is hard to say from the photos (I don’t know how “big” you are!).
Our does are 8-10 lbs as adults.
Chinchilla rabbits come in three varieties/ sizes.
The ones that that are reddish may be a New Zealand cross.... I’m not guessing Flemish because those bunnies are much larger - but I’m also not a bunny pro.
Some may also be a wild cross, if you have wild bunnies in your area.
I built my bunnies a hutch that is sooo easy to clean- angled sheet metal under the custom cages, so I can just take a hose to it every few days and wash everything down to a single collection area. I made mine two sided, with metal in between to stop any splash/ overspray. But I also live on a steep hill so I had several modifications. (Pic of the original plans/ idea added)
Then you can either screen off the poo (it is an excellent “cool” fertilizer that can go directly into the garden), or, you can take it with whatever hay is mixed in and use it to level out grassy areas.
Bunnies need quality Timothy hay, (much cheaper to buy a whole bale and store in trash cans - the stuff from the feed store for bunnies is WAY more expensive but works in a pinch) and a complete rabbit pellet at the least. We use purina professional pellets - even though purina isn’t my favorite feed manufacturer. The bunnies do very well on that feed, and it was suggested by the people we got our bunnies from. They do like veggies as well, but do some research because some things you would think would be ok....aren’t.
I’m sorry I can’t help with the flea problem; (knocking on wood) I haven’t faced that issue w our bunnies. I HAVE found a few nests of flea infested baby wild rabbits on our property over the years, and my vet has always told me to spritz them w kitten flea powder and then leave them be.
I always touch my bunnies before I feed them. I do handle them as well, but the ones that are more aggressive have come around quickly with my insistence on asking them to let me touch/ pet them before they get food. You can increase contact as they get used to the idea that you aren’t going to hurt them. But always have a long sleeve shirt on when you pick them up 😳
Good luck on your adventure!
 

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The baby brown Chestnut looks to be between 6to8 weeks. I breed Silver fox rabbits and the babies I have get about that size around 6to8 weeks. They are similar in size to an American Chinchilla rabbit that someone mentioned above. There are many different rabbit breeds that come in many different colors. Do you know about how big the parents are? I know you said the one died. 😔 sorry for the loss.
 
They do look to have some Flemish Giant in them as others have mentioned. Domestic rabbits cannot have offspring with wild cotton tails as they are a different species (they come from the European rabbit).

As you've seen, rabbits reproduce quickly and can hide pregnancy well. They can become pregnant again immediately after giving birth, at as young as four months for some. So it's important to confirm their sex and separate them early on at around three months of age.
Rabbits can be fixed at six months, which will not only prevent more pregnancy but it can help with many things such as litter training, spraying, humping, aggression, and other territorial behaviors. Rabbits often go through a personality change at 4-6 months because of their hormones, so it's common to see the behaviors above until they eventually outgrow it or are fixed. Fixing your rabbits also prevents health issues such as uterine cancer, which is very common for does.
Rabbits as adults can often be hard to house together, but fixing them makes it easier to bond a pair as well.

As for care, adult rabbits should be on a diet of ¼ cups timothy pellets daily, fresh spring mix veggies daily, and unlimited timothy hay. I recommend the Oxbow brand. Avoid any food or treats with seeds or dyes. For treats, they often like bananas, apples, carrots, and herbs.
Rabbits under six months and pregnant does should have unlimited alfalfa hay and pellets.

I recommend using water dishes rather than bottles, since rabbits do need a lot of water and water bottles make it difficult to get a sufficient amount from. They are also difficult to clean, which can leaf to bacteria growing in the nozzle. Ceramic bowls aren't as easy to knock over as others, and you can buy some with stands to keep hay and things out of their water, though it should be changed daily.

Housing rabbits is often a controversial subject. Many people keep their rabbits outside in wire cages or hutches. Pet owners tend to prefer keeping them indoors for many reasons.
Rabbits have many predators outdoors, and can go into shock from simply being spooked by one. Heat is also a concern. While rabbits can tolerate the cold well, high temperatures can sometimes cause heat stroke.
And most hutches and cages do not provide the space that rabbits need to exercise and play.
When housed indoors, rabbits can free roam like a dog or cat if you bunny proof and litter train. For when you cannot supervise your rabbits, wire dog playpens can make great enclosures indoors. They're cheaper than cages and provide more (much needed) space for your rabbit and its needs. A rabbit enclosure should include a large (cat sized) litter box with pine pellets (avoid cat litter) and plenty of fresh hay, multiple hiding options, toys to keep the rabbits entertained and their teeth down (this prevents chewing other things), a mat or rug to protect your floors/carpet and to provide traction, and food and water of course.

Taking on this many rabbits is a lot, so if needed there are rabbit rescues that can take some or all, and they may help with getting them fixed for you. The house rabbit society has a list of reputable rabbit rescues.

I hope this information helps you and your new bunnies, they're very lucky that you're willing to help them. Let me know if you have any questions :)
 
Hi Y'all.

We recently bought a property that had a breeding pair of meat rabbits that had escaped and have been breeding. They live among the 33 chickens that also came with the land. I am not very knowledgeable about meat rabbit breeds or ages and am looking for some advice here.

I have been putting out live traps and so far have caught 3. One of the breeding pair was killed by a dog and I didn't get a chance to see it after it died. The other one is still hoping around and I haven't caught it yet. There apear to be 3 or 4 ages, so I assume the ones left are from 3 or 4 litters. I caught one of the oldest and 2 of the youngest.

Do you know what breed or age these are?

Also, they have fleas, any ideas of how to getbrid of them naturally (I have bees).

Thanks
They appear to be chinchilla mixed with a New Zealand red??
 
Alrighty, I caught the last large (mature) rabbit. I also learned how to sex them and so far we have 2 does and 2 bucks. One of the boys and one of the girls are the little ones, so I separated them according to gender since one of the large ones is a doe. Here's a picture of the daddy.
 

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