Oh Craigslist, You Amuse Me So!

And I'm not knocking it for build practicality or build cost, but I wouldn't call it hand built quality that rivals what you can buy as I have seen some very decent (albeit costly) commercial coop kits that use better materials...


My wife keeps telling me that, Whenever I tell her it looks like it was store bought,,,,,
lau.gif



I actually use cheap USB for breeding coops, I do not expect them to last long but they do their job for a few years. then I just throw another one together.
 
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I actually use cheap USB for breeding coops, I do not expect them to last long but they do their job for a few years. then I just throw another one together.


Oh trust me I have done and do the same, and I spent many years working as a carpenter and have the skills to do much better, but sometimes cost and practicability rule the coop...

As of late I have been picking up a lot of 'clearance' wood at the local Home Depot, they sell it at 70% off and I can't resist that price over normal price.. And lets just say when you buy clearance wood that isn't exactly true and straight, the builds become much more practical then aesthetic...
 
Oh trust me I have done and do the same, and I spent many years working as a carpenter and have the skills to do much better, but sometimes cost and practicability rule the coop...

As of late I have been picking up a lot of 'clearance' wood at the local Home Depot, they sell it at 70% off and I can't resist that price over normal price.. And lets just say when you buy clearance wood that isn't exactly true and straight, the builds become much more practical then aesthetic...


Yep. I just got 16- 6ft treated fence posts 4 inchers for $1.50 each! They are not straight and a little ugly, but I cannot resist that price for a bachelor pen/guinea breeder area (not at same time, but alternating uses)
 
Yep. I just got 16- 6ft treated fence posts 4 inchers for $1.50 each!   They are not straight and a little ugly, but I cannot resist that price for a bachelor pen/guinea breeder area  (not at same time, but  alternating uses)


Fence post are high on my priority as I need to stretch some more fence this year... I like it when I find 8-16 foot treated 4x4s on clearance, since I'm going to bury 3 feet in the ground and leave 5 feet exposed, generally I can bury and/or cut off most of the twist and bend and still come out ahead with straight fence post....
 
Fence post are high on my priority as I need to stretch some more fence this year... I like it when I find 8-16 foot treated 4x4s on clearance, since I'm going to bury 3 feet in the ground and leave 5 feet exposed, generally I can bury and/or cut off most of the twist and bend and still come out ahead with straight fence post....


While I like straight fences I can handle semi-straight ones at that price for the posts. I search the bargain areas for 4x4 and whatever makes posts too, I need to make so many more covered runs, I need to hoard all I can. When I was loading the $1.50 ones a guy came by and asked how much they were, I told him and he said he wanted some. He was kind of disappointed when I told him I bought the whole pile.
 
My post are all metal. No more rotting posts. I'm getting too old. I'm putting up welded wire so hopefully I'll never have to change that again either.


For field fence, wood corners and wood gate openings are much easier to work with and much more cost effective, I use steel T-post in between the corners... Since I'm currently renting (and there is no way I could ever afford to purchase the property) there is little reason for me to invest in lifetime fencing... Even so around here there are plenty of very old wood corner post and T-Post field fences still standing after decades...
 
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For field fence, wood corners and wood gate openings are much easier to work with and much more cost effective, I use steel T-post in between the corners... Since I'm currently renting (and there is no way I could ever afford to purchase the property) there is little reason for me to invest in lifetime fencing... Even so around here there are plenty of very old wood corner post and T-Post field fences still standing after decades...


X2 on the places to use wood. I seldom use metal on chicken runs, but I do on pastures. I cover all my runs and the wood gives more support for the game bird netting.
 
Liar, liar pants on fire.
This post says a 4'X4' coop (external dimensions will hold 4-8 chickens. Price reduced.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/grd/5485509585.html

This coop houses 4-8 chickens, or more if you intend to provide ranging for them. It's secure, well-ventilated, insulated, ultra-sturdy, movable, cheerfully painted.

*4'x4' footprint
*bottom of coop hovers two feet above ground
*tall, front side of coop is 48"
*shorter, rear side is 46"
*3 bucket nesting boxes
*22"x27" hinged glass window
*Window secured with fine gauge chicken wire for fresh air ventilation without escape
*20"x36" latched/hinged door for easy access/cleaning
*plenty of room on the roosting bar
*small sliding chicken door that raises/lowers from the outside
*insulated ceiling
*grit dispenser mounted inside
*corrugated tin roof
*completely primed and painted interior to protect wood surfaces from corrosive chicken poo
*completely primed and painted two-toned exterior (with exterior paint)
I couldn't help it. I HAD to reply to the ad just to see what kind of response I'd get. Why not? I had nothing to lose.

ME:
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Please reevaluate your expectations for what you plan to sell this coop for as well as the design and materials should you decide to make more in the future. If you do, I'm sure that you will find that a well built and well designed coop properly advertised will sell faster than this current one has.



THEM:
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