Run Construction w/ Deep Litter- Lumber Dimensions, etc?

green_thumb

Songster
Jan 29, 2019
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Central Ohio
I feel like this is my millionth set of questions, but I just can't pass up the fount of knowledge that is this group :)

I'm building a run similar to the one picture below: rectangular with a lean-to metal roof, w/ hardware cloth and a hardware cloth apron around the perimeter.

I have some general construction questions. While I know this could be done multiple "correct" ways, I'd love to hear what worked or didn't work for you. Pictures would be awesome too!

Would 2x4s be fine for the whole thing, or should I do 4x4s on the base to hold up better? I think I;m going to do 2ft wide vertical spacing, since that's the width of hardware cloth I found to be the cheapest and I think then I won't have to put in any corner bracing.

For those of you using deep litter, how much of a "lip" do you have to keep it in, or is it just resting up against your hardware cloth? How quickly might this cause rust?

Did you attach hardware cloth on the inside or outside? When you did the apron, is it fasted on the bottom of the base, or inside and then bent underneath?

Would a corrugated metal roof attached on top be fine without hardware cloth underneath? Could a weasle etc. crawl up there and fit in the gap created by the ridges in the roof?

How wide did you make your door? Any special way you built it to eliminate any gapping for rodents to get in?

Any other general advice or flaws in my plans?

5042885681-500x375.jpg

(picture borrowed from https://blog.mypetchicken.com/2015/11/15/5-tips-designing-custom-chicken-run/)
 
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Did you attach hardware cloth on the inside or outside? When you did the apron, is it fasted on the bottom of the base, or inside and then bent underneath?

I attach all fencing on the OUTSIDE of all framing so if a predator is jumping/leaning on your fence (think neighbor dog or coyote) it cannot as easily push it in.

For my apron, I had a roll of fencing that was 3 feet wide, I ran one foot up the base of the run walls, also on the outside of the fencing, bent it at ground level so that 2 feet were flat on the ground around the perimeter of the run. Since the ground is not perfectly even, the apron does not like to lay perfectly flat at first. Some landscape/garden staples help hold down the apron. Eventually some dirt fills in and plants grow through the apron and it stays down even better on its own.
 
Some landscape/garden staples help hold down the apron. Eventually some dirt fills in and plants grow through the apron and it stays down even better on its own.

Ah, excellent idea with the staples, I wouldn't have thought of that. My husband is always grumbling about how un-even our ground is (House was originally built in 1856, so it was never leveled like a new lot might have been) so that will help!
 
This looks like a good setup but there is one thing I wish I had done differently that may be relevant for you. My run door is level with the ground, it opens outward and has a board across the bottom of the frame to prevent anything sneaking in underneath. What I hadn't considered is that when there is heavy snowfall this is difficult to clear. I have had to deal with ice buildups that either prevented the door from opening fully or have caused the door to be iced shut. If I was doing it over I would have a foot or so clearance from the bottom of the door to the ground.
 
Door wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow. Any sort of lip across bottom of door easily removable for same reason. Ceiling high enough that you don't accidentally slam a shovel handle into it when working in there. Bottom board around entire run at least a 2 X 6, if not 2 X 8 or 2 X 12. Pressure treated board. While the advice to tack the cloth to the outside is very wise in order to make it stronger, if you want it to be visually appealing, attaching to the inside looks a lot nicer when viewed from the outside. The wood structure is all visible that way. I sleep well at night knowing that while mine is attached to the inside, I used hefty poultry staples.

galvanized-poultry-staples.jpg
 
This looks like a good setup but there is one thing I wish I had done differently that may be relevant for you. My run door is level with the ground, it opens outward and has a board across the bottom of the frame to prevent anything sneaking in underneath. What I hadn't considered is that when there is heavy snowfall this is difficult to clear. I have had to deal with ice buildups that either prevented the door from opening fully or have caused the door to be iced shut. If I was doing it over I would have a foot or so clearance from the bottom of the door to the ground.

And on the flip side, my ground level door opens into my walk in coop. They pile crap in front of it so I can't open it......there is literally no way to get it open other than brute force. Maybe I will fix that sometime.....but wont be anytime soon.
 
We used pressure treated 4x4s for the base & all vertical posts. 2x4s for horizontal.

We did hardware cloth on the outside & then put furring strips (?) to trim it out to make it look nicer & cover the sharp ends of the hardware cloth.

I did a hc apron around the outside. I bent it up a couple inches & used poultry staples to attach it to the 4x4s & held them down with landscaping staples. Then covered it with mulch.

The roof is corrugated tin we had left over from the garage build that has trim pieces on all sides so nothing can get in, so no need for hc. But my run isnt gonna stop all critters anyway, I'm sure mice can always find a way in if they want it bad enough!

I wish I had made the man door a dutch door since I get assaulted every time I walk in. Would have been nice to open just the top & throw in some scratch.

Good luck!
 
My run is made of 2"x4" welded wire fence with a 3' wide chicken wire run along the bottom, buried about 8" of the chicken wire so no skirt.
Fencing materials attached on the outside so that anything pushing on the fence from outside is actually pushing against the posts not just the staples. Use a trim board along the edges of the fencing to "sandwich" the fencing between boards. It will hold better that way and covers the sharp edges.
 
Door wide enough to accommodate a wheelbarrow

Yes, this important to me as someone of a small stature ;)

I wish I had made the man door a dutch door since I get assaulted every time I walk in. Would have been nice to open just the top & throw in some scratch.

Another excellent idea, especially since the dogs come out with me most of the time for “yard errands” such as dumping compost or picking some veggies for dinner.


I ordered the metal roofing panels today- checked my measurements over and over again :fl
 

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