She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

I will hatch next Wednesday and Thursday. I can wait a week or two to set if you want. If you turn the LG on now you may have the temps regulated by then
I might have to wait until your next hatch is done then. Cause it's going to take a couple weeks for things to settle down so I can hopefully have eggs from my girls.
 
I might have to wait until your next hatch is done then. Cause it's going to take a couple weeks for things to settle down so I can hopefully have eggs from my girls.
I misread your post... don't smack me. Your hatch is due wed/thursday and you can give it a week or two..ok, That would probably be perfect for me...Blond moment....lol
 
Just stumbled onto this thread, no time to read it all at the moment, but have subscribed. This is a great idea, because just last week I was reading different threads where people were giving the exact opposite advice to noobs hatching for the first time, and how does one argue with anyone whose methods work, even when so different from one's own?

Can't wait to get back and continue reading this.
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I will hatch next Wednesday and Thursday. I can wait a week or two to set if you want. If you turn the LG on now you may have the temps regulated by then

Great thread, I enjoy the humor and great reading, experience outweighs any book imo so keep them coming. My 1st bator batch are due to hatch this coming Monday / Tuesday. *feeling excited...

Question for both of y'all:
As mentioned, my fist hatching is due this Monday/Tuesday. So this question is really for my own edification and hopefully, help other newbies as well.
What are the pros/cons of taking a hatched chick from the bator into a brooder asap -vs- leaving them be (scflock) until day 21(or longest as possible).

Thank you.

p.s.
I took the blue pill.
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Just stumbled onto this thread, no time to read it all at the moment, but have subscribed.  This is a great idea, because just last week I was reading different threads where people were giving the exact opposite advice to noobs hatching for the first time,  and how does one argue with anyone whose methods work, even when so different from one's own?  

Can't wait to get back and continue reading this.:thumbsup
Amy and I usually give conflicting advice. That's why we are doing this thread, because there are different ways to do things, and neither is right or wrong
 
I have a question and observation for the experts here.

I noticed in these two hatches, in both bators I had pips on day 19 and several hatches on day 20 and every one of these were from one rooster and his hens.(majority hatched 20 days) Both of the first ones out in each bator were big yellow chicks from him, and happen to have been the only yellow chicks this time(I get red, yellow, black and barred). My other rooster and his hen's eggs hatch later, most on 22. Not one of their 10 eggs hatched before day 22, actually, and I had two that hatched on day 23. I read so much about temperature and that lower temps tend to produce later hatches, higher=early. But, they were all in the same bators at the same temps. So, is it because the early ones may be stronger? (even though all are doing well) Or, maybe just genetics, like some chicken's individual genes may produce earlier hatches? BTW...both coops are the same breeds.(Black sex link to black sex link) 11/12 hatched in one bator, and I am looking at 18/18 if this last one pipped gets out ok. :) I attribute the success to all I have read here on BYC. (I don't want to give the numbers for the shipped eggs, but I will 3/8 ring neck pheasant, ZERO/8 Midgets :( :( , 3/18 Dorkings.... Sigh
 
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Great thread, I enjoy the humor and great reading, experience outweighs any book imo so keep them coming. My 1st bator batch are due to hatch this coming Monday / Tuesday. *feeling excited...

Question for both of y'all:
As mentioned, my fist hatching is due this Monday/Tuesday. So this question is really for my own edification and hopefully, help other newbies as well.
What are the pros/cons of taking a hatched chick from the bator into a brooder asap -vs- leaving them be (scflock) until day 21(or longest as possible).

Thank you.
The biggest thing is making sure you have a high enough humidity during lockdown, if you are removing your chicks and using the low end average or even lower (65% is the least recommended) then you do run a risk of the membranes drying out on any pippers/zippers. Which can cause the membranes getting glued to the chick and keeping them from finishing the hatch. So if you aren't running with a higher humidity, it does pose potential problems. (I run my humidity at 75% during hatch. I have never had a chick pip or zip and die in the shell.)

I find that chicks fluff up better under the brooder lights than in my humid bator. I also have a lg with the fan kit installed and the fan kit is not covered. My last hatch I had two chicks get hurt on the fan one rather seriously. The hatch before that I was leaving them in longer till they were more or less dry I had two get hurt. One chipped beak during a game of king of the hill with the other hatchers off the thermometer and one that stretched out while standing on the thermometer and putting his head on the heating elelment burning his down. So I feel the chicks are safer in my brooder than my bator. That's one of the biggest reasons. The other big reason I prefer them in the brooder is:

They say that chicks can survive w/o food or water for three days. My philosophy is can and should are two different things. I can go two three days w/o food after I eat supper, but I sure as heck don't want to. My chicks are usually eating and drinking in hours after placement in the brooder. I also use sav a chick electrolyte in my water the first couple days so I feel getting them in the brooder and hydrated and infused is in their best interest. I am more comfortable with the having the food and water early on.

That's what I see as pros/cons and why I am more comfortable moving them.
 
I have a question and observation for the experts here.

I noticed in these two hatches, in both bators I had pips on day 19 and several hatches on day 20 and every one of these were from one rooster and his hens.(majority hatched 20 days) Both of the first ones out in each bator were big yellow chicks from him(I get red, yellow, black and barred). My other rooster and his hen's eggs hatch later, most on 22. Not one of their 10 eggs hatched before day 22, actually and I had two that hatched on day 23. I read so much about temperature and that lower temps tend to produce later hatches, higher=early. But, they were all in the same bators at the same temps. So, is it because the early ones may be stronger? (even though all are doing well) Or, maybe just genetics, like some chicken's individual genes may produce earlier hatches? BTW...both coops are the same breeds.(Black sex link to black sex link) 11/12 hatched in one bator, and I am looking at 18/18 if this last one pipped gets out ok. :) I attribute the success to all I have read here on BYC. (I don't want to give the numbers for the shipped eggs, but I will 3/8 ring neck pheasant, ZERO/8 Midgets :( :( , 3/18 Dorkings.... Sigh
It's possible it's genetics. I know some people mature faster than others, (I matured, sc is still figuring out what the word means
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) and develope at different speeds, it's possible chickens might too. But I want to point out eggs in the same incubator aren't neccessarily in the same temps-even in a forced air bator. I have fan forced and I have temp differences in my bator. Under my heating element (9200 model) it is a good 1-2 degrees warmer than the center of my bator while my corners also grow warmer. Plus if I am using my automatic turner, the area right around the turner's motor is significantly warmer because those motors kick off a lot of heat. So, if you have eggs in warm spots of the bator and you do not rotate them during incubation they may develope and hatch quicker. Eggs in "cold spots" may develope later and be a bit delayed.
 
This is something else you guys need to know about Amy. She is quite prolific in the morning, then homeschools and disappears until around 3, then she multiquotes everyone that posted while she was away. Then she pops back on for a few jabs at me around 3, then disappears again to sing Barry Manilow to the kid while he's in the tub. Then there is another flurry of activity after he nods off.
My wife is all for the second incubator, but we have a rule. All chicken sale money goes into a bowl. All feed, supplies, etc.. are paid for with money from that bowl. When there is enough money left in the bowl at the end of a month to buy another incubator, I will get one then. Come on, Polish!!!
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How did I miss this post??? I also sing "Killing me softly" and I do a great version of "beat it"
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Karaoke Revolution baby!!! Timing sounds about right, jab time, school, jab time, home duties...Just don't expect too much from me on Tuessdays when NCIS is on or Thursdays when BONES is on....lol

Better get selling!!! lol
 
It's possible it's genetics. I know some people mature faster than others, (I matured, sc is still figuring out what the word means
wink.png
) and develope at different speeds, it's possible chickens might too. But I want to point out eggs in the same incubator aren't neccessarily in the same temps-even in a forced air bator. I have fan forced and I have temp differences in my bator. Under my heating element (9200 model) it is a good 1-2 degrees warmer than the center of my bator while my corners also grow warmer. Plus if I am using my automatic turner, the area right around the turner's motor is significantly warmer because those motors kick off a lot of heat. So, if you have eggs in warm spots of the bator and you do not rotate them during incubation they may develope and hatch quicker. Eggs in "cold spots" may develope later and be a bit delayed.

I didnt think of that, but it is still strange that all of Ct's eggs hatched 21 and under (most of Ct's eggs hatched "early") and Donald's all hatched "late".

One last thing. On lockdown day, I noticed one egg somehow got cracked while in the turner. I use the cheap Walmart fish tank thermometers(and love them), along with the incutherms... since there is absolutely NO WAY to rely on the LG's thermostats. I think the thermometer got stuck in the turner and somehow cracked this egg. It was cracked all of the way up and down one side and several cracks going from the original crack. I decided to go ahead and put it in lockdown. Today is day 22, it is one of Donal'd eggs, and I was about to toss it, as I figured it was such a long-shot to hatch. When I put it in lockdown, I laid the cracked side on a sponge that I kept wet, but, still...I figured, no way! I went to take it out and it was peeping. I put it back and it pipped! It is the last one in there. :)
 
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