Valbazen de-worming question....

They have taken Valbazen, and have just repackaged it in a smaller amount. It is the same cattle/sheep wormer as one would find in a feed store. The dosage undiluted is 1/2 ml for most standard chickens or 1/4 ml for a bantam.

Correct. No need to dilute Valbazen, it's a safe wormer. Besides, it's easier to administer 1/2cc orally rather than 2cc's orally (diluted) to each chicken.
 
OK, Is it a one time dose and then another one time dose in ten days? From what I can see on the packaging it says to repeat the diluted amount everyday for ten days. I won't know for sure what the packaging dosing instructions state until I get the product in my hands since the picture on the website is hard to see. I would much rather give them only one dose as opposed to something for multiple days.
 
OK, Is it a one time dose and then another one time dose in ten days? From what I can see on the packaging it says to repeat the diluted amount everyday for ten days. I won't know for sure what the packaging dosing instructions state until I get the product in my hands since the picture on the website is hard to see. I would much rather give them only one dose as opposed to something for multiple days.
I think the label on the bottle from First State says to repeat in ten days, not to give for ten days.
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FYI, when using undiluted Valbazen, any bird over 6 pounds should should be dosed at 0.08ml per pound. For example, a 10 pound Jersey Giant hen should get 0.8ml.

-Kathy
 
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Ok, I will do that. I couldn't read the label in the picture and there wasn't any product description on the website. Thank you for letting me know
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I gave them the Valbezen on Sunday and have been poop watching daily. Today is Wednesday and I have yet to see anything that resembles worms or parasites. If I continue to not see anything is the re-dose on the 10th day really necessary?

*I have done fecal floats in the past and they came back clear. I am just worming as a semi-annual preventative.
 
I gave them the Valbezen on Sunday and have been poop watching daily. Today is Wednesday and I have yet to see anything that resembles worms or parasites. If I continue to not see anything is the re-dose on the 10th day really necessary?

*I have done fecal floats in the past and they came back clear. I am just worming as a semi-annual preventative.
Many worms are too hard to see in the poop, and those that do die are often just digested.
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So yes, re-worm on day 10.

This is what a cecal worm looks like:


-Kathy
 
Oh yeah true! OK I will..it's just hard going so long without their eggs!
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Hi,

I,ve read the majority of your posts regarding worming issues. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community. My question is can I feed my dogs the chicken eggs, treated with valbazen. My thoughts were if the dogs ate some of their infected chicken poo could the eggs be beneficial to them or be detrimental with such a small dosage of valbazen left in the eggs. I treated my chickens for gapeworms as 2 out of 13 birds had classic signs and symptoms, and found worms in some fecal matter.
 
Hi,

I,ve read the majority of your posts regarding worming issues. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the community. My question is can I feed my dogs the chicken eggs, treated with valbazen. My thoughts were if the dogs ate some of their infected chicken poo could the eggs be beneficial to them or be detrimental with such a small dosage of valbazen left in the eggs. I treated my chickens for gapeworms as 2 out of 13 birds had classic signs and symptoms, and found worms in some fecal matter.

No. Throw the eggs out. The type of worms that infect chickens do not infect dogs.
 
The type of worms that infect chickens do not infect dogs.

Um, the worms in chickens are not the same species as in dogs, but albendazole is effective against many of the species of worms that do infect dogs, cattle, sheep, and swine. The thing about feeding eggs with traces of wormer in them to another animal is that the trace amount of wormer in the eggs might not be enough to kill all the worms in the animal that eats them. All you would then be doing is building up a resistance in those worms to that particular wormer. On the flip side, if you don't know how much wormer makes its way into the eggs, you don't know how much your dog is getting either.
 

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