This is a revised edition of my previous article, “Button Quail care guide”.
Fun Fact: Despite being known as Button quail in captivity, it is an inaccurate nickname as Buttonquail (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttonquail) are a different species. A lot of articles completely mix them up due to lack of research, providing false information, & often not even showing photos of the correct species. The species kept in captivity as pets/aviary birds are called King Quail. They also go by the names Chinese painted, Asian blue, Or Blue breasted quail.
About Kings:
King quail are very popular as pets or aviary birds, however are commonly said not to have much purpose in captivity compared to other quail such as Coturnix that are used for meat or eggs. Captive birds come in many color varieties such as Silver, Cinnamon, Red breasted, and others. When effort is put into bonding, they may become very affectionate and enjoy being held or pet, although many individuals dislike human contact. In aviaries they are a joy to watch as they run about and explore. They also do well with certain other species, which we will cover in the section at the bottom of the article. King quail are incredibly active, requiring a good deal of space and things to do within their enclosure. In the wild they are native to Southern China, South and southeastern Asia, and Southeastern Australia with 9 different subspecies. King quail are quite easy to care for, however due to heavy presence of outdated/incorrect information on the internet they unintentionally are often severely neglected.
Weight: 0.99 - 1.4 oz
Length: 4.9 - 5.5 in
Lifespan: Up to 13 years in captivity, however most live only 1-3 years (sometimes as little as 18 months!) due to improper care & poor breeding practices. The common average for birds under good care seems to be 5-7 years.
Housing & Enrichment:
King quail require a minimum 24x36 inches or 6 sq ft of floor space for a single pair, with 4 square ft per additional pair (or 3 sq ft for a single addition). More space is always ideal & appreciated whenever possible. Undersized enclosures tend to be a major cause of aggression between individuals along with poor breeding practices of poorly tempered birds. The quail's small size is never a valid reason to promote small enclosures; all quail regardless of species require space for exercise (especially being ground-dwellers moving almost constantly), as well as the opportunity to seek personal space or explore. While the 1 sq ft rule is still heavily promoted in most communities, this space stems from factory practices & is highly unethical.
Mesh (or bar) sided cages are ideal as they provide high airflow to keep the birds sensitive respiratory systems healthy. Certain types of Vivarium may be utilized if the front sliding doors are swapped for mesh/screen alternatives so long as they have adequate floorspace. For indoor mesh sided cages or modification of other cages, 1/2-inch mesh is fine for adults however if there are pets such as cats in the house, or if natural breeding may eventually be planned, 1/4 inch should be used instead. Many styles of Rabbit or guinea pig hutches are easily modified for safe indoor use with an ideal design, as well as being an easily accessible option for many (Levels do not count towards floorspace requirements in connected level type cages). Please avoid any rack style housing or other short cages, as these do not allow the birds to exhibit a full range of natural behaviors (such as flight when excited) as well as inhibiting the owner's ability to provide forms of enrichment such as climbing. They are often promoted to prevent injuries such as scalping or fatalities however contrary to popular belief, short cages do make such injuries or events much more likely, and more serious when they do occur. Quail are powerful jumpers and will hit a short ceiling with much more force than a taller one. A tall enclosure allows the bird to enter flight, slowing down and preventing injuries or not hitting the top of the cage at all. 3 ft is the ideal minimum height, or 2 ft with padding such as foam, or tightly suspended fabric or screen. A bedsheet or garden fabric can work well for this purpose. Garden fabric is cheap & will hold up longer to the elements if being used outdoors.
Outdoor enclosures are a great choice whenever possible as they benefit highly from the natural UVB exposure, especially for feather health. Contrary to popular belief healthy birds are quite heat/cold resistant given they are acclimated appropriately with access to shelter from wind or rain. Temperature ranges from 100F (37C) are easily tolerated in proper shade with shaded fresh water, and lows as cold as 10F (-12C) with proper shelter. When temperatures drop to the low 50's or 40's it is recommended to cover the cage with a bed sheet or plastic sheets to block decent portions of wind etc.
Ideally 1/4 inch mesh should be used for the top & sides of the enclosure, with 1/2 inch for the bottom then covered with a layer of sand or soil. A garden fabric barrier is optional but beneficial in easier maintenance of the substrate such as replacing it. Using 1/2-inch for the bottom allows the owner to simply lift and shake (if size allows, and a barrier was not used) to remove most of the dirt when moving the enclosure elsewhere. The enclosure should also include a sheltered hutch attachment, or if the enclosure is very large a smaller hutch within the enclosure itself to shelter in. If housing outdoors but not directly on the ground, do not use larger mesh or bar style flooring as these risk injuries and are uncomfortable for the birds to walk on. They also will allow predators such as raccoons to tear the birds through or allow rodents to chew off toes/feet. While mesh is not an ideal first choice, if the owner should choose that route, 1/4-inch hardware mesh is best while also ensuring plenty of climbing/resting opportunities to support foot health, natural wear of the nails, and comfort.
Kings are ground dwelling birds and not great at perching (but capable on thicker branches), however they enjoy climbing so ramps made of boards or even tree bark can be provided. They also will enjoy hiding under or inside of things such as hollow logs, or sideways ceramic planter pots etc. Live foliage is also a great addition to outdoor enclosures, such as Fountain grasses, Ferns (Boston), Small shrubs such as Chrysanthemum, or other safe flowers such as Marigold. Various herbs are also great choices however ensure they will be manageable and not become invasive (mint is often prone to this).
!!! Please always research potential local predators heavily prior to moving the birds outdoors. Snakes are highly beneficial to keep around to discourage/control rodent populations however do often enjoy birds and can squeeze through small gaps. Opossums are for the most part unable to get into decent enclosures but may attempt if very hungry, they much enjoy eggs and small birds. Raccoons or Coyote presence requires strongly build enclosures with strong mesh securing. A double layer (1/2 inch over 1/4 inch) along the bottom 24-36 inches is strongly preferred if coyotes or stray dogs roam nearby, properly secured 1/4 inch is enough for raccoons. Never use chicken wires, these are NOT strong enough to keep predators out on their own. Rats if heavily present may also chew through accessible wood not covered by mesh/metal, and mice although not high risk to adults will likely eat small chicks/eggs and can be a disease risk to the birds in higher numbers.
An example of an outdoor grow-out pen for chicks. 2x5x2 ft, with plastic roofing panel covering the entire top, a 2x2 ft shelter area, 1/4 inch mesh sides/top, 1/2 inch mesh bottom covered by soil in the run, sand in the hutch section. If the enclosure was not against a fence, covering the back of the run with roof sheeting or an appropriate board would be advised.
Outdoor cage by Lisa. A
Modified Catio, the double layer of mesh provides extra strength.
Outdoor enclosure by Jayme. A
Modified chicken coop. Above ground setups are ideal in areas with heavy rainfall or flood risk and may be less stress if there is heavy ground traffic by predators.
Want your quail to have a natural environment but can't do an outdoor enclosure? Consider an indoor bioactive setup to give your birds the full experience! (bug tolerance required). This enclosure by Corey features Bella palm, Umbrella tree, Boston Fern, & Grasses sprouted from finch mix along with plenty of leaf litter for beneficial "CUC" otherwise known as cleanup crew which are isopods and springtails who rid the enclosure of decaying organic matter. An enclosure like this is best oversized with minimal birds to ensure the ecosystem can manage along with some spot cleaning help from the owner. Soil may occasionally need to be turned if it gets packed down.
Indoor cages by Suzanne. The clear panel pen is ideal for homes without other pets, or if restricted to a room that other pets are not allowed access to. Escape is prevented by securing a small-meshed garden netting over the top. XL Guinea pig cages are also a common choice but not recommended for areas with cats or nosy/untrained dogs. Solid sides for smaller enclosures are advised against due to poor airflow, large size as seen here allows proper airflow again.
Indoor Cage by Tara R. A modified catio, two 3x6 ft levels each 3 ft high. Such a cage will be safe for cat/dog households, ideally another layer of mesh should be added at the bottom to ensure no accidental scratches happen if cats are around.
Diet & Treats
A Gamebird crumble feed with at least 19% (or up to 27%) protein content should be available at all life stages 24/7. While many sources may recommend this as a suitable full diet, it is not actually nutritionally complete in a way that allows the animals to actually thrive, therefore a range of fresh foods should be supplemented. A mix of minced vegetables, herbs, & greens can be offered to the birds daily, ideally no less than 4 days a week. This can be made in larger batches then frozen in smaller portions that can be fed within 5-7 days of being thawed. Depending on the freezing method, this can be offered by breaking off portion pieces then setting in dishes in the enclosure for the birds to eat as it thaws. Unfinished fresh food should be removed within 2-3 hours to prevent spoiling. Sprouted seed/grain mixes can be used as a topper for the vegetable mix, and many finch/canary/parakeet mixes can be sprouted as well, however ensure they do not include artificial coloring or pellets in the mix. The Hagen finch mix tends to be ideal, as well as the (more costly) sprouting mixes from biodiversitybirdblends, and many other sprouting mixes marketed for parrots are great as well. These should be offered 3-4 times a week or even more often when available. A dry seed mix (again, finch mixes etc.) should be offered in a small handful a few times a week (or daily if preferred) for foraging enrichment or mixed into the gamebird crumble (1 pt seed 5 pts crumble). Overfeeding seed can result in chubby birds as many mixes contain only high fat millets. A spray millet is a great option as a once weekly or biweekly foraging treat, especially if hung so the birds must jump at it. Cooked quinoa (or sprouted) is also a nice addition to the diet in rotation with other sprouts etc. Additional protein sources such as live or dried insects (mealworms, black soldier fly larvae, or in moderation, crickets) are also vital to provide. Alternatively, mashed boiled egg or scrambled egg may be offered (always unseasoned, no oils etc.).
Safe vegetables:
Bell pepper, Broccoli, Bokchoy, Brusselsprouts, Carrot, Cauliflower, Green beans, Jalapeno, Peas (sweet, sugar, snap, snow), Parsnip, Radish (moderation), Squash (Yellow, zucchini, Acorn, Butternut, etc), Turnip (purple top).
Safe Greens/Herbs: Basil, Collard, Dandelion, Dill, Fennel, Kale (moderation), Mustard, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Spinach (moderation), Thyme.
The food list may be edited later on.
Gamebird crumble feed & a Finch seed mix
Examples of fresh food portions
Male or Female?
King quail may prove difficult to sex for beginners, especially with all the variations occurring within the many existing color types.
The "rules" are that males have a bib, red/blue breast, or red vent. Some of these however may not be accurate as both sexes do display a bib, and hens of some colors will have red vents on occasion.
The bib on a typical male is generally a black throat with a "strap" that goes up near below the ear, a sideways white raindrop shape on the cheek/jaw (outlined by the mentioned strap) then below those a white throat patch also outlined by black. This bib can have a lot of variation in other colors but generally retains the clear white throat with outline. The bib of a hen will only outline the larger throat patch area but often very patchy, not super neat like most males. She also will not exhibit the clean raindrop mark, rather the strap that would outline it is only partial, presenting as similar to a downturned mustache.
3 typical bib variations on males. (1) A full proper bib with the white cheek black throat, (2) a black throat, no cheek mark but displays a bib, and (3) a white cheek with chin strap but no bib marking around the white throat patch. Note that all 3 males show the red and blues appropriate for their color types (Wild split to pearl, Red-breasted, & Golden pearl)
Strong presenting bibs on Females. Note the little downturned moustache look without any of the white markings.
This article specifically covers the subject in depth with photo examples. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/sexing-king-button-quail-variants-methods.79863/
Color Varieties
King quail come in quite a few varieties, the more common being Red-breasted, Silver, Blueface, or white. Silver or Blueface can often occur over other base colors, as well as Cinnamon. This means along with the common base colors, they also have additional combinations or "out-of-standard" varieties.
Wild Type - The original coloration, males have a clean black white bib, a blue face, the blue extends halfway down the breast and through the center of the wings, red underside/vent, brown above starting at the forehead extending down to the base of the tail with clean streaking. Females brown with heavier clean streaking, nice barring over a beige breast which fades into an almost white/pale grey between the legs, a golden beige face often with a little white bib patch beneath the beak on throat. Chicks are mostly dark brown with neat black stripe down the center of the back, with 2 golden toned brown stripes on either side. Stripes on the head will be darker golden brown toned.
Golden pearl - Males similar to wildtype but display a white forehead, generally much less streaking in the back, brown toned but not with proper pattern, streaks will often end in gold "pearling", which in both genders appears almost as spots or splotches attached to the streaks. Females vary in shade, most golden in color with distinct pearl pattern in the back. May have either a barred or streaked breast, hens with streaked breast will end in teardrop shapes rather than a clean tip. Some hens are very similar in shade or facial pattern to wild type, however will still display obvious pearls. Chicks similar to wild type but lighter in most cases, golden stripes on the head will likely be more yellow toned.
Red-breasted - Males will have a black head often with white/grey speckling, black throat with a white bib, usually not as large/defined as pearl or wild males, red will cover the entire underside up to the bib, most of the wing in many cases, blue will be present more on the sides of the neck rather than on the breast although many males especially before their second molt may display a blue breast (often with patchy red). The back is often mottled black and blue, or including some hints of brown. Males without a bib are known as "Vader". Females have a wide range of shades with variation in how heavy the barring/mottling is. They may be beige or a toasty golden color with barring all over the body, beige throat with a brown or black bib outline (no "chinstrap" etc. Some may display a red vent area, or in rarer cases even some blue grey in the breast. Chicks come in many shades but often yellow with brown streaking to the back, may hatch with a black face. Some may hatch almost fully yellow with only light brown markings in the back appearing after 2-3 days.
Blueface - In single or double factor forms. Males vary in shade, will not present a bib, but may have a tiny white patch at the beak or on the throat. Males have a blue face, extends down the neck into the breast, may show light patchy in the wings. Red vent on males, overall body tone normally a red tinted brown. Females similar browns but lack blue or a red vent, may display the same white throat or tiny patch by the beak. Often heavier black barring/mottling over the feathers than males. Chicks hatch nearly black sometimes with a tiny yellow spot at the beak.
Cinnamon - Pale cinnamon brown toned, various shades in females. Bluefaced cinnamon are much darker. Male cinnamon have a bib similar to wild type males, mostly only presenting cinnamon tone in the back/rump, with a pale bluegrey shade over the body rather than the deeper blue of other color types. Female feather pattern like that of a wild type just in the pale cinnamon brown tones. Chicks hatch yellowish with red/orange toned face and back, may have silver streaks in the back as well.
Silver - Variations in shades especially in combination with other color types. Generally a steel grey sort of color, hens tend to have some barring pattern to the breast, males will often have a white bib outlined by darker grey, and/or pink/orange tone in the vent. Not all males will show a bib or pink colors and may need to be sexed behaviorally. Chicks hatch yellow with silvery tones or silver streaking in the back, wing pins will come in grey.
White - Quite simple, literally a pure white bird. Cannot be sexed visually, must rely on behavioral cues (see link in Male or Female section). Chicks hatch very yellow with no visible markings in the down.
Fallow - Quite rare and difficult to keep, an incomplete albino mutation. Red eyes, females a pale golden color, males a very pale orange colored underside, pale blue sides/breast, pale brownish beige at the top. Generally a yellow chick with very pink/red eyes.
An article including photos of these colors will be linked here once complete, it is still a draft.
New Flock mates & Behavioral issues
Introducing new birds can be a bit hectic as these birds are territorial by nature. It is best to introduce using a barrier such as mesh that allows the birds to see/hear but not come in contact with each other. Keep this barrier in place for 6 hours to a week depending on the bird's reaction before removing. The birds should reach a point where they seem to completely ignore each other's existence. Offering a pile of high value treats when the barrier is removed is also advised as an extra distraction and positive association with the new flock members. NEVER simply place new birds in an enclosure, as this sudden "intrusion" can get them killed if left unsupervised afterwards as well as being immensely stressful for both parties and risking unnecessary injuries. Some chasing in the first days is normal however it should only occur when the new bird enters the resident bird's personal space. If the new bird(s) is being chased as soon as being seen, isolate them with the barrier for a few more days. If only a single resident bird is doing the chasing despite all others being settled, then putting it in "time out" for a few hours (or days) will often do the trick. Introductions should not result in injuries for either party with proper introductions, if it continues to occur despite multiple attempts or "time outs" it is likely they won't ever get along simply due to not liking an introduced or resident individual, or a bird(s) from either party has issues of excessive aggression.
A common topic is also at what age to introduce new birds, especially for people who have adults but now have hatched or bought chicks and wish to integrate them with the existing flock. This does bring us back to the topic of temperament- very well tempered adults will often accept chicks as young as 3-4 weeks sometimes even helping to care for them and engage in bonding behaviors such as preening. Unfortunately many birds are not like this so it is best to wait until the birds are at minimum 5-6 weeks old, or even wait until 9-10 when they've matured for the most part.
While King quail are monogamous in the wild, they do tolerate smaller flock settings quite well in captivity. While the ratio depends partially on individual preference, it is incorrect to say you NEED to have 2-3+ hens per male. a 1:1 ratio works perfectly fine in most cases given the males are well tempered & respectful. For breeding purposes, it is often best to stick with pairs or trios for the best genetic control/guarantee (Or a small group of chosen proven birds). If issues such as poor temperament or weakness/deformities pop up in a larger flock setting, it can be much more difficult to pick out who passed it down. Even if the owner doesn't intend to breed, having a huge flock without loads of space can also be stressful for the birds which can compromise immune health, trigger fighting, etc. Large groups also mean that if disease DOES break out, the losses may be much more significant & harder to get under wraps.
Issues such as plucking tend to be most common, stemming from the common keeping style of undersized enclosures causing high tensions which cause the birds to pick at one another due to stress. Plucked birds should be isolated into their own enclosures, as singles or small groups of 2-3 birds. Feed them extra protein such as sprouts and bugs to allow faster healthy feather growth. If only a single individual is targeted by a main aggressor its less likely a behavior issue, and more likely a simple case of disliking. This is easily solved by keeping the individuals in separate groups, however if an aggressor goes after multiple birds (especially if excessively targeting a certain sex) this is cause for concern and the bird should be removed. Many such individuals may still be safely housed with only the opposite sex however should not be allowed to reproduce. If the bird continues attempting to harm other introduced individuals it should be considered to keep the bird as a pet (temperament permitting, birds docile to humans), or culled.
Disappointingly, due to little to no temperament control/consideration in most breeding practices, excessive aggression (mainly in male birds) has become quite a serious issue in the species. While it is normal for two individuals occasionally to just not get along, as with humans, a male attempting to injure or kill every male an introduction is attempted with, is not normal behavior. Males who exhibit such behavior should never be allowed breeding rights lest they pass on this often-genetic trait that gradually worsens. In more severe cases it may be recommended to cull, especially with individuals who also cannot respect a hen. This practice may seem cruel to some, however it is vital in ethical breeding to maintain good temperament in lines, not to mention cruel to keep a bird alone who psychologically requires companionship however is unable to receive this due to its aggression.
Chick rearing & Broody hens
Chick care is one of the things that majorly effects the bird's health well into adulthood, so it is vital to start them out right. Most people are still heavily encouraged to use aquariums/terrariums or totes by most of the online communities as well as social media sites, however due to the biological function of a bird's respiratory system, these are not at all suitable options. The chicks require a cage with good airflow that does not allow escapes. Line the bottom 3-4 inches of the sides with cardboard, window screen, or 1/4-inch hardware cloth. A paper bottom with the edges folded up works as well (see image below). Ensure there are no gaps, chicks are quite talented at squeezing through anything much wider than 1/4 inch. A halogen heat lamp is often the best heat source, never use colored bulbs as these are damaging to animals' eyesight. Some brooder plates may work however often need modifications due to the tiny size of the chicks. Some people have success with ceramic heat emitters as well. No matter what heat source you try, always keep a backup option on hand in case it doesn't work out.
A proper Brooder setup for hatchlings, before & after chick introduction.
Older chicks can safely be given hides & other enrichment.
Eggs take 16-17 days to hatch & should be incubated at 99-102F with around 40% humidity and regular turning the first 13 days (3-4 times daily by hand or use an incubator with a turner). Do not stress if the humidity drops quite low or is too high at first. On the 13th or 14th day the eggs must go into "Lockdown", humidity is raised to 65-75% ideal range (55 at the lowest, 85 at the highest) and the eggs are no longer turned/egg turner removed. Do not open the incubator until hatching begins unless it is necessary to add more water. The first chicks should be removed between 8-15 hours after hatching once steady on their feet and beginning to fluff. Do not leave them for longer than 24 hours, they cannot stay in for 48+ hours like baby chickens can and will quickly become weak past this point without access to food/water. Remove them quickly to minimize humidity loss and if necessary, add a splash of water to re-boost humidity.
Line the bottom of the brooder with a rough textured paper towel. For most chicks this is enough however if any seem to slip at all/are unable to keep their legs beneath them quickly place down a dish towel or microfiber cloth. Slippery brooder floors can cause slipped tendons (nearly impossible to correct in such small birds), or splayed leg, which can be corrected but takes some patience & effort. In the event a chick cannot keep the legs underneath even on proper flooring immediately bind them together using self sticking bandage/vet wrap & keep it on for minimum 24 hours. Unless it's a slipped tendon it should correct within this period.
Fresh water & lightly crushed feed should be available as soon as the chicks are put into the brooder. The feed should be kept next to the heat source, with the water slightly further away to prevent it getting warm. Use a quail specific chick waterer, or even just a bottle cap the first hours. For the chick waterer it may be ideal only to fill the bottom drinking part 3/4 and not attach its actual reservoir, this way the water level is somewhat lower. This way the chicks are less likely to accidentally become wet which may be fatal. Cover the top as seen in the photo above for the first 2-3 days, then continue use with the reservoir attachment. It is highly advised to start offering finely minced veggie chop on the first day as this assists in early hydration and gets them well started in learning to eat healthy foods. It is also recommended to add some apple cider vinegar with "the mother" to their water during the first week for immune support.
At 1-2 weeks, hides or climbing opportunities can be offered, dust baths can be offered within week one however the chicks may not show interest until near the 2 week mark as the feathers grow in more. A dust bath is vital to help the birds' feathers come in nicely and relieve some itching from the shifting/growth. By 4 weeks the chicks will be fully feathered, reaching adult weight around 7-8 weeks. They mature around 12 weeks of age, although some may mature slightly earlier or later. Being an undomesticated species, it is not a guarantee that matured hens will begin laying immediately as Coturnix do. Depending on the color variety, males develop red vents, blue on the breast, and/or a bib between 3-5 weeks of age. Wild type or Golden pearl males can often be sexed as young as 2 weeks, while some like red-breasted take until 4-5 weeks before any identifying features begin to strongly develop.
Broody hens are not a super uncommon occurrence, especially if housed naturally with plenty of space and cover. If housed in a flock, a chick-proof divider should be placed around her, giving 5-6 sq ft of space. A male partner who helps tend to the eggs or nest, sitting occasionally with the hen is more likely to be a good father, and may be allowed to stay with her until the eggs hatch (Some males will even adopt chicks without the presence of a broody hen!). Disturb the pair as minimally as possible, first time mothers are quite prone to nest abandonment even later into incubation. On hatch day observe closely from a distance, the mother should stay near her chicks as well as show them to food and water within a few hours. A male may often wander around but check in and assist in chick brooding once they leave the nest site. Be sure to collect any unhatched eggs once the hen leaves with her chicks, as she may not return to the nest. Place these in an incubator, the late chicks can be added to the group once steady and fluffing. The mother or father should not be picking at the chick's feet then shaking or carrying them around or engaging in other aggressive behavior. Some light picking once or twice out of curiosity is normal as the chick's toes may be mistaken for small worms (even by other chicks).
An article specifically on chick hatching/rearing is on it's way out, once complete this guide will be edited to include the link here.
A Red-breasted hen with chicks, and a male foster parent. This bluefaced male was exceptional in his parenting instincts, happily adopting chicks regardless of what hatched them (pictured 1 of 2 chicks hatched by society finches).
Cohabitation- What other birds are safe additions?
When housed appropriately with the needs of the quail and other species in mind, they often cohabitate wonderfully with species such as Diamond Doves or a variety of more docile finch species. Keep in mind the individual quails' temperaments before considering, as some birds due to the previously mentioned aggression issues may not be suitable flock mates especially if you intend to breed the other species included in the large flight/aviary. Finch species such as Society (Bengalese), Docile waxbills, Gouldians, or Canaries are often great choices, although the last two mentioned are often more delicate and recommended to more experienced finch keepers. While quail are often known as "cleanup crew" they do not forage so strongly to completely eliminate waste so a low-spill feeder style for the finches or doves is best. The quail should not be able to reach the finch feeder as they tend to over-eat on seed resulting in dietary deficiencies or the bird becoming overweight as well, which risks health issues. Zebra finches are often another popular choice however the males are often known to pluck the quail for nest lining, so may need to be separated during breeding seasons/attempts.
When including other energetic flying species, it is important to include extra length in the enclosure. While a 2x3 ft enclosure is suitable for a pair of Kings, finches or doves should ideally have a minimum enclosure length of 4 ft, or even more depending on the species. These birds do also appreciate extra height, 3 ft is adequate but more when possible allows the best exercise opportunity with the extra length.
If breeding the other species, ensure their fledglings have plenty of low shrubbery/branches etc. to get off the ground easily. While it is generally not an issue with well-tempered quail, some will pick at fledglings resulting in injury, in turn leading to further picking. An injured baby who passes on the ground will also likely be scavenged by the quail.
Never house King quail with any of the birds listed below. Differences in body language etc. create a high risk for altercations between birds, if there are size differences or different beak types/strengths this will often result in severe injury or fatalities for the smaller quail. Please keep in mind that despite many people often being lucky for a long time and claiming it's safe, luck runs out. Do not take the risk, by the time the quails suffer the consequences, the mistake will be too late to correct.
Parrots - Most species are a serious safety risk to quail due to their powerful sharp beaks. Even more generally docile species like Cockatiels can be pushed to biting when personal space is invaded. Only very select species such as Bourke's are safe in aviary settings.
Other Quail - Mostly the same issue as above, they are larger and stronger. Even fairly docile Coturnix should not be housed with them, especially as Males are unpredictable. Things can go smoothly for months or years, but it is always a possibility that should be avoided.
Large Doves/Pigeons - Despite being called peaceful, a lot of the larger species are quite unfriendly towards smaller birds. Only docile species similar in size to the quail should be considered for cohabitation especially for people with little experience in either species.
Other Gamebirds/Fowl - Due to larger size and differences in body languages, plus the high injury risk even in "gentle" altercations these species should never be allowed contact with the tiny Kings.
Fun Fact: Despite being known as Button quail in captivity, it is an inaccurate nickname as Buttonquail (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttonquail) are a different species. A lot of articles completely mix them up due to lack of research, providing false information, & often not even showing photos of the correct species. The species kept in captivity as pets/aviary birds are called King Quail. They also go by the names Chinese painted, Asian blue, Or Blue breasted quail.
About Kings:
King quail are very popular as pets or aviary birds, however are commonly said not to have much purpose in captivity compared to other quail such as Coturnix that are used for meat or eggs. Captive birds come in many color varieties such as Silver, Cinnamon, Red breasted, and others. When effort is put into bonding, they may become very affectionate and enjoy being held or pet, although many individuals dislike human contact. In aviaries they are a joy to watch as they run about and explore. They also do well with certain other species, which we will cover in the section at the bottom of the article. King quail are incredibly active, requiring a good deal of space and things to do within their enclosure. In the wild they are native to Southern China, South and southeastern Asia, and Southeastern Australia with 9 different subspecies. King quail are quite easy to care for, however due to heavy presence of outdated/incorrect information on the internet they unintentionally are often severely neglected.
Weight: 0.99 - 1.4 oz
Length: 4.9 - 5.5 in
Lifespan: Up to 13 years in captivity, however most live only 1-3 years (sometimes as little as 18 months!) due to improper care & poor breeding practices. The common average for birds under good care seems to be 5-7 years.
Housing & Enrichment:
King quail require a minimum 24x36 inches or 6 sq ft of floor space for a single pair, with 4 square ft per additional pair (or 3 sq ft for a single addition). More space is always ideal & appreciated whenever possible. Undersized enclosures tend to be a major cause of aggression between individuals along with poor breeding practices of poorly tempered birds. The quail's small size is never a valid reason to promote small enclosures; all quail regardless of species require space for exercise (especially being ground-dwellers moving almost constantly), as well as the opportunity to seek personal space or explore. While the 1 sq ft rule is still heavily promoted in most communities, this space stems from factory practices & is highly unethical.
Mesh (or bar) sided cages are ideal as they provide high airflow to keep the birds sensitive respiratory systems healthy. Certain types of Vivarium may be utilized if the front sliding doors are swapped for mesh/screen alternatives so long as they have adequate floorspace. For indoor mesh sided cages or modification of other cages, 1/2-inch mesh is fine for adults however if there are pets such as cats in the house, or if natural breeding may eventually be planned, 1/4 inch should be used instead. Many styles of Rabbit or guinea pig hutches are easily modified for safe indoor use with an ideal design, as well as being an easily accessible option for many (Levels do not count towards floorspace requirements in connected level type cages). Please avoid any rack style housing or other short cages, as these do not allow the birds to exhibit a full range of natural behaviors (such as flight when excited) as well as inhibiting the owner's ability to provide forms of enrichment such as climbing. They are often promoted to prevent injuries such as scalping or fatalities however contrary to popular belief, short cages do make such injuries or events much more likely, and more serious when they do occur. Quail are powerful jumpers and will hit a short ceiling with much more force than a taller one. A tall enclosure allows the bird to enter flight, slowing down and preventing injuries or not hitting the top of the cage at all. 3 ft is the ideal minimum height, or 2 ft with padding such as foam, or tightly suspended fabric or screen. A bedsheet or garden fabric can work well for this purpose. Garden fabric is cheap & will hold up longer to the elements if being used outdoors.
Outdoor enclosures are a great choice whenever possible as they benefit highly from the natural UVB exposure, especially for feather health. Contrary to popular belief healthy birds are quite heat/cold resistant given they are acclimated appropriately with access to shelter from wind or rain. Temperature ranges from 100F (37C) are easily tolerated in proper shade with shaded fresh water, and lows as cold as 10F (-12C) with proper shelter. When temperatures drop to the low 50's or 40's it is recommended to cover the cage with a bed sheet or plastic sheets to block decent portions of wind etc.
Ideally 1/4 inch mesh should be used for the top & sides of the enclosure, with 1/2 inch for the bottom then covered with a layer of sand or soil. A garden fabric barrier is optional but beneficial in easier maintenance of the substrate such as replacing it. Using 1/2-inch for the bottom allows the owner to simply lift and shake (if size allows, and a barrier was not used) to remove most of the dirt when moving the enclosure elsewhere. The enclosure should also include a sheltered hutch attachment, or if the enclosure is very large a smaller hutch within the enclosure itself to shelter in. If housing outdoors but not directly on the ground, do not use larger mesh or bar style flooring as these risk injuries and are uncomfortable for the birds to walk on. They also will allow predators such as raccoons to tear the birds through or allow rodents to chew off toes/feet. While mesh is not an ideal first choice, if the owner should choose that route, 1/4-inch hardware mesh is best while also ensuring plenty of climbing/resting opportunities to support foot health, natural wear of the nails, and comfort.
Kings are ground dwelling birds and not great at perching (but capable on thicker branches), however they enjoy climbing so ramps made of boards or even tree bark can be provided. They also will enjoy hiding under or inside of things such as hollow logs, or sideways ceramic planter pots etc. Live foliage is also a great addition to outdoor enclosures, such as Fountain grasses, Ferns (Boston), Small shrubs such as Chrysanthemum, or other safe flowers such as Marigold. Various herbs are also great choices however ensure they will be manageable and not become invasive (mint is often prone to this).
!!! Please always research potential local predators heavily prior to moving the birds outdoors. Snakes are highly beneficial to keep around to discourage/control rodent populations however do often enjoy birds and can squeeze through small gaps. Opossums are for the most part unable to get into decent enclosures but may attempt if very hungry, they much enjoy eggs and small birds. Raccoons or Coyote presence requires strongly build enclosures with strong mesh securing. A double layer (1/2 inch over 1/4 inch) along the bottom 24-36 inches is strongly preferred if coyotes or stray dogs roam nearby, properly secured 1/4 inch is enough for raccoons. Never use chicken wires, these are NOT strong enough to keep predators out on their own. Rats if heavily present may also chew through accessible wood not covered by mesh/metal, and mice although not high risk to adults will likely eat small chicks/eggs and can be a disease risk to the birds in higher numbers.
An example of an outdoor grow-out pen for chicks. 2x5x2 ft, with plastic roofing panel covering the entire top, a 2x2 ft shelter area, 1/4 inch mesh sides/top, 1/2 inch mesh bottom covered by soil in the run, sand in the hutch section. If the enclosure was not against a fence, covering the back of the run with roof sheeting or an appropriate board would be advised.
Outdoor cage by Lisa. A
Modified Catio, the double layer of mesh provides extra strength.
Outdoor enclosure by Jayme. A
Modified chicken coop. Above ground setups are ideal in areas with heavy rainfall or flood risk and may be less stress if there is heavy ground traffic by predators.
Want your quail to have a natural environment but can't do an outdoor enclosure? Consider an indoor bioactive setup to give your birds the full experience! (bug tolerance required). This enclosure by Corey features Bella palm, Umbrella tree, Boston Fern, & Grasses sprouted from finch mix along with plenty of leaf litter for beneficial "CUC" otherwise known as cleanup crew which are isopods and springtails who rid the enclosure of decaying organic matter. An enclosure like this is best oversized with minimal birds to ensure the ecosystem can manage along with some spot cleaning help from the owner. Soil may occasionally need to be turned if it gets packed down.
Indoor cages by Suzanne. The clear panel pen is ideal for homes without other pets, or if restricted to a room that other pets are not allowed access to. Escape is prevented by securing a small-meshed garden netting over the top. XL Guinea pig cages are also a common choice but not recommended for areas with cats or nosy/untrained dogs. Solid sides for smaller enclosures are advised against due to poor airflow, large size as seen here allows proper airflow again.
Indoor Cage by Tara R. A modified catio, two 3x6 ft levels each 3 ft high. Such a cage will be safe for cat/dog households, ideally another layer of mesh should be added at the bottom to ensure no accidental scratches happen if cats are around.
Diet & Treats
A Gamebird crumble feed with at least 19% (or up to 27%) protein content should be available at all life stages 24/7. While many sources may recommend this as a suitable full diet, it is not actually nutritionally complete in a way that allows the animals to actually thrive, therefore a range of fresh foods should be supplemented. A mix of minced vegetables, herbs, & greens can be offered to the birds daily, ideally no less than 4 days a week. This can be made in larger batches then frozen in smaller portions that can be fed within 5-7 days of being thawed. Depending on the freezing method, this can be offered by breaking off portion pieces then setting in dishes in the enclosure for the birds to eat as it thaws. Unfinished fresh food should be removed within 2-3 hours to prevent spoiling. Sprouted seed/grain mixes can be used as a topper for the vegetable mix, and many finch/canary/parakeet mixes can be sprouted as well, however ensure they do not include artificial coloring or pellets in the mix. The Hagen finch mix tends to be ideal, as well as the (more costly) sprouting mixes from biodiversitybirdblends, and many other sprouting mixes marketed for parrots are great as well. These should be offered 3-4 times a week or even more often when available. A dry seed mix (again, finch mixes etc.) should be offered in a small handful a few times a week (or daily if preferred) for foraging enrichment or mixed into the gamebird crumble (1 pt seed 5 pts crumble). Overfeeding seed can result in chubby birds as many mixes contain only high fat millets. A spray millet is a great option as a once weekly or biweekly foraging treat, especially if hung so the birds must jump at it. Cooked quinoa (or sprouted) is also a nice addition to the diet in rotation with other sprouts etc. Additional protein sources such as live or dried insects (mealworms, black soldier fly larvae, or in moderation, crickets) are also vital to provide. Alternatively, mashed boiled egg or scrambled egg may be offered (always unseasoned, no oils etc.).
Safe vegetables:
Bell pepper, Broccoli, Bokchoy, Brusselsprouts, Carrot, Cauliflower, Green beans, Jalapeno, Peas (sweet, sugar, snap, snow), Parsnip, Radish (moderation), Squash (Yellow, zucchini, Acorn, Butternut, etc), Turnip (purple top).
Safe Greens/Herbs: Basil, Collard, Dandelion, Dill, Fennel, Kale (moderation), Mustard, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Spinach (moderation), Thyme.
The food list may be edited later on.
Gamebird crumble feed & a Finch seed mix
Examples of fresh food portions
Male or Female?
King quail may prove difficult to sex for beginners, especially with all the variations occurring within the many existing color types.
The "rules" are that males have a bib, red/blue breast, or red vent. Some of these however may not be accurate as both sexes do display a bib, and hens of some colors will have red vents on occasion.
The bib on a typical male is generally a black throat with a "strap" that goes up near below the ear, a sideways white raindrop shape on the cheek/jaw (outlined by the mentioned strap) then below those a white throat patch also outlined by black. This bib can have a lot of variation in other colors but generally retains the clear white throat with outline. The bib of a hen will only outline the larger throat patch area but often very patchy, not super neat like most males. She also will not exhibit the clean raindrop mark, rather the strap that would outline it is only partial, presenting as similar to a downturned mustache.
3 typical bib variations on males. (1) A full proper bib with the white cheek black throat, (2) a black throat, no cheek mark but displays a bib, and (3) a white cheek with chin strap but no bib marking around the white throat patch. Note that all 3 males show the red and blues appropriate for their color types (Wild split to pearl, Red-breasted, & Golden pearl)
Strong presenting bibs on Females. Note the little downturned moustache look without any of the white markings.
This article specifically covers the subject in depth with photo examples. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/sexing-king-button-quail-variants-methods.79863/
Color Varieties
King quail come in quite a few varieties, the more common being Red-breasted, Silver, Blueface, or white. Silver or Blueface can often occur over other base colors, as well as Cinnamon. This means along with the common base colors, they also have additional combinations or "out-of-standard" varieties.
Wild Type - The original coloration, males have a clean black white bib, a blue face, the blue extends halfway down the breast and through the center of the wings, red underside/vent, brown above starting at the forehead extending down to the base of the tail with clean streaking. Females brown with heavier clean streaking, nice barring over a beige breast which fades into an almost white/pale grey between the legs, a golden beige face often with a little white bib patch beneath the beak on throat. Chicks are mostly dark brown with neat black stripe down the center of the back, with 2 golden toned brown stripes on either side. Stripes on the head will be darker golden brown toned.
Golden pearl - Males similar to wildtype but display a white forehead, generally much less streaking in the back, brown toned but not with proper pattern, streaks will often end in gold "pearling", which in both genders appears almost as spots or splotches attached to the streaks. Females vary in shade, most golden in color with distinct pearl pattern in the back. May have either a barred or streaked breast, hens with streaked breast will end in teardrop shapes rather than a clean tip. Some hens are very similar in shade or facial pattern to wild type, however will still display obvious pearls. Chicks similar to wild type but lighter in most cases, golden stripes on the head will likely be more yellow toned.
Red-breasted - Males will have a black head often with white/grey speckling, black throat with a white bib, usually not as large/defined as pearl or wild males, red will cover the entire underside up to the bib, most of the wing in many cases, blue will be present more on the sides of the neck rather than on the breast although many males especially before their second molt may display a blue breast (often with patchy red). The back is often mottled black and blue, or including some hints of brown. Males without a bib are known as "Vader". Females have a wide range of shades with variation in how heavy the barring/mottling is. They may be beige or a toasty golden color with barring all over the body, beige throat with a brown or black bib outline (no "chinstrap" etc. Some may display a red vent area, or in rarer cases even some blue grey in the breast. Chicks come in many shades but often yellow with brown streaking to the back, may hatch with a black face. Some may hatch almost fully yellow with only light brown markings in the back appearing after 2-3 days.
Blueface - In single or double factor forms. Males vary in shade, will not present a bib, but may have a tiny white patch at the beak or on the throat. Males have a blue face, extends down the neck into the breast, may show light patchy in the wings. Red vent on males, overall body tone normally a red tinted brown. Females similar browns but lack blue or a red vent, may display the same white throat or tiny patch by the beak. Often heavier black barring/mottling over the feathers than males. Chicks hatch nearly black sometimes with a tiny yellow spot at the beak.
Cinnamon - Pale cinnamon brown toned, various shades in females. Bluefaced cinnamon are much darker. Male cinnamon have a bib similar to wild type males, mostly only presenting cinnamon tone in the back/rump, with a pale bluegrey shade over the body rather than the deeper blue of other color types. Female feather pattern like that of a wild type just in the pale cinnamon brown tones. Chicks hatch yellowish with red/orange toned face and back, may have silver streaks in the back as well.
Silver - Variations in shades especially in combination with other color types. Generally a steel grey sort of color, hens tend to have some barring pattern to the breast, males will often have a white bib outlined by darker grey, and/or pink/orange tone in the vent. Not all males will show a bib or pink colors and may need to be sexed behaviorally. Chicks hatch yellow with silvery tones or silver streaking in the back, wing pins will come in grey.
White - Quite simple, literally a pure white bird. Cannot be sexed visually, must rely on behavioral cues (see link in Male or Female section). Chicks hatch very yellow with no visible markings in the down.
Fallow - Quite rare and difficult to keep, an incomplete albino mutation. Red eyes, females a pale golden color, males a very pale orange colored underside, pale blue sides/breast, pale brownish beige at the top. Generally a yellow chick with very pink/red eyes.
An article including photos of these colors will be linked here once complete, it is still a draft.
New Flock mates & Behavioral issues
Introducing new birds can be a bit hectic as these birds are territorial by nature. It is best to introduce using a barrier such as mesh that allows the birds to see/hear but not come in contact with each other. Keep this barrier in place for 6 hours to a week depending on the bird's reaction before removing. The birds should reach a point where they seem to completely ignore each other's existence. Offering a pile of high value treats when the barrier is removed is also advised as an extra distraction and positive association with the new flock members. NEVER simply place new birds in an enclosure, as this sudden "intrusion" can get them killed if left unsupervised afterwards as well as being immensely stressful for both parties and risking unnecessary injuries. Some chasing in the first days is normal however it should only occur when the new bird enters the resident bird's personal space. If the new bird(s) is being chased as soon as being seen, isolate them with the barrier for a few more days. If only a single resident bird is doing the chasing despite all others being settled, then putting it in "time out" for a few hours (or days) will often do the trick. Introductions should not result in injuries for either party with proper introductions, if it continues to occur despite multiple attempts or "time outs" it is likely they won't ever get along simply due to not liking an introduced or resident individual, or a bird(s) from either party has issues of excessive aggression.
A common topic is also at what age to introduce new birds, especially for people who have adults but now have hatched or bought chicks and wish to integrate them with the existing flock. This does bring us back to the topic of temperament- very well tempered adults will often accept chicks as young as 3-4 weeks sometimes even helping to care for them and engage in bonding behaviors such as preening. Unfortunately many birds are not like this so it is best to wait until the birds are at minimum 5-6 weeks old, or even wait until 9-10 when they've matured for the most part.
While King quail are monogamous in the wild, they do tolerate smaller flock settings quite well in captivity. While the ratio depends partially on individual preference, it is incorrect to say you NEED to have 2-3+ hens per male. a 1:1 ratio works perfectly fine in most cases given the males are well tempered & respectful. For breeding purposes, it is often best to stick with pairs or trios for the best genetic control/guarantee (Or a small group of chosen proven birds). If issues such as poor temperament or weakness/deformities pop up in a larger flock setting, it can be much more difficult to pick out who passed it down. Even if the owner doesn't intend to breed, having a huge flock without loads of space can also be stressful for the birds which can compromise immune health, trigger fighting, etc. Large groups also mean that if disease DOES break out, the losses may be much more significant & harder to get under wraps.
Issues such as plucking tend to be most common, stemming from the common keeping style of undersized enclosures causing high tensions which cause the birds to pick at one another due to stress. Plucked birds should be isolated into their own enclosures, as singles or small groups of 2-3 birds. Feed them extra protein such as sprouts and bugs to allow faster healthy feather growth. If only a single individual is targeted by a main aggressor its less likely a behavior issue, and more likely a simple case of disliking. This is easily solved by keeping the individuals in separate groups, however if an aggressor goes after multiple birds (especially if excessively targeting a certain sex) this is cause for concern and the bird should be removed. Many such individuals may still be safely housed with only the opposite sex however should not be allowed to reproduce. If the bird continues attempting to harm other introduced individuals it should be considered to keep the bird as a pet (temperament permitting, birds docile to humans), or culled.
Disappointingly, due to little to no temperament control/consideration in most breeding practices, excessive aggression (mainly in male birds) has become quite a serious issue in the species. While it is normal for two individuals occasionally to just not get along, as with humans, a male attempting to injure or kill every male an introduction is attempted with, is not normal behavior. Males who exhibit such behavior should never be allowed breeding rights lest they pass on this often-genetic trait that gradually worsens. In more severe cases it may be recommended to cull, especially with individuals who also cannot respect a hen. This practice may seem cruel to some, however it is vital in ethical breeding to maintain good temperament in lines, not to mention cruel to keep a bird alone who psychologically requires companionship however is unable to receive this due to its aggression.
Chick rearing & Broody hens
Chick care is one of the things that majorly effects the bird's health well into adulthood, so it is vital to start them out right. Most people are still heavily encouraged to use aquariums/terrariums or totes by most of the online communities as well as social media sites, however due to the biological function of a bird's respiratory system, these are not at all suitable options. The chicks require a cage with good airflow that does not allow escapes. Line the bottom 3-4 inches of the sides with cardboard, window screen, or 1/4-inch hardware cloth. A paper bottom with the edges folded up works as well (see image below). Ensure there are no gaps, chicks are quite talented at squeezing through anything much wider than 1/4 inch. A halogen heat lamp is often the best heat source, never use colored bulbs as these are damaging to animals' eyesight. Some brooder plates may work however often need modifications due to the tiny size of the chicks. Some people have success with ceramic heat emitters as well. No matter what heat source you try, always keep a backup option on hand in case it doesn't work out.
A proper Brooder setup for hatchlings, before & after chick introduction.
Older chicks can safely be given hides & other enrichment.
Eggs take 16-17 days to hatch & should be incubated at 99-102F with around 40% humidity and regular turning the first 13 days (3-4 times daily by hand or use an incubator with a turner). Do not stress if the humidity drops quite low or is too high at first. On the 13th or 14th day the eggs must go into "Lockdown", humidity is raised to 65-75% ideal range (55 at the lowest, 85 at the highest) and the eggs are no longer turned/egg turner removed. Do not open the incubator until hatching begins unless it is necessary to add more water. The first chicks should be removed between 8-15 hours after hatching once steady on their feet and beginning to fluff. Do not leave them for longer than 24 hours, they cannot stay in for 48+ hours like baby chickens can and will quickly become weak past this point without access to food/water. Remove them quickly to minimize humidity loss and if necessary, add a splash of water to re-boost humidity.
Line the bottom of the brooder with a rough textured paper towel. For most chicks this is enough however if any seem to slip at all/are unable to keep their legs beneath them quickly place down a dish towel or microfiber cloth. Slippery brooder floors can cause slipped tendons (nearly impossible to correct in such small birds), or splayed leg, which can be corrected but takes some patience & effort. In the event a chick cannot keep the legs underneath even on proper flooring immediately bind them together using self sticking bandage/vet wrap & keep it on for minimum 24 hours. Unless it's a slipped tendon it should correct within this period.
Fresh water & lightly crushed feed should be available as soon as the chicks are put into the brooder. The feed should be kept next to the heat source, with the water slightly further away to prevent it getting warm. Use a quail specific chick waterer, or even just a bottle cap the first hours. For the chick waterer it may be ideal only to fill the bottom drinking part 3/4 and not attach its actual reservoir, this way the water level is somewhat lower. This way the chicks are less likely to accidentally become wet which may be fatal. Cover the top as seen in the photo above for the first 2-3 days, then continue use with the reservoir attachment. It is highly advised to start offering finely minced veggie chop on the first day as this assists in early hydration and gets them well started in learning to eat healthy foods. It is also recommended to add some apple cider vinegar with "the mother" to their water during the first week for immune support.
At 1-2 weeks, hides or climbing opportunities can be offered, dust baths can be offered within week one however the chicks may not show interest until near the 2 week mark as the feathers grow in more. A dust bath is vital to help the birds' feathers come in nicely and relieve some itching from the shifting/growth. By 4 weeks the chicks will be fully feathered, reaching adult weight around 7-8 weeks. They mature around 12 weeks of age, although some may mature slightly earlier or later. Being an undomesticated species, it is not a guarantee that matured hens will begin laying immediately as Coturnix do. Depending on the color variety, males develop red vents, blue on the breast, and/or a bib between 3-5 weeks of age. Wild type or Golden pearl males can often be sexed as young as 2 weeks, while some like red-breasted take until 4-5 weeks before any identifying features begin to strongly develop.
Broody hens are not a super uncommon occurrence, especially if housed naturally with plenty of space and cover. If housed in a flock, a chick-proof divider should be placed around her, giving 5-6 sq ft of space. A male partner who helps tend to the eggs or nest, sitting occasionally with the hen is more likely to be a good father, and may be allowed to stay with her until the eggs hatch (Some males will even adopt chicks without the presence of a broody hen!). Disturb the pair as minimally as possible, first time mothers are quite prone to nest abandonment even later into incubation. On hatch day observe closely from a distance, the mother should stay near her chicks as well as show them to food and water within a few hours. A male may often wander around but check in and assist in chick brooding once they leave the nest site. Be sure to collect any unhatched eggs once the hen leaves with her chicks, as she may not return to the nest. Place these in an incubator, the late chicks can be added to the group once steady and fluffing. The mother or father should not be picking at the chick's feet then shaking or carrying them around or engaging in other aggressive behavior. Some light picking once or twice out of curiosity is normal as the chick's toes may be mistaken for small worms (even by other chicks).
An article specifically on chick hatching/rearing is on it's way out, once complete this guide will be edited to include the link here.
A Red-breasted hen with chicks, and a male foster parent. This bluefaced male was exceptional in his parenting instincts, happily adopting chicks regardless of what hatched them (pictured 1 of 2 chicks hatched by society finches).
Cohabitation- What other birds are safe additions?
When housed appropriately with the needs of the quail and other species in mind, they often cohabitate wonderfully with species such as Diamond Doves or a variety of more docile finch species. Keep in mind the individual quails' temperaments before considering, as some birds due to the previously mentioned aggression issues may not be suitable flock mates especially if you intend to breed the other species included in the large flight/aviary. Finch species such as Society (Bengalese), Docile waxbills, Gouldians, or Canaries are often great choices, although the last two mentioned are often more delicate and recommended to more experienced finch keepers. While quail are often known as "cleanup crew" they do not forage so strongly to completely eliminate waste so a low-spill feeder style for the finches or doves is best. The quail should not be able to reach the finch feeder as they tend to over-eat on seed resulting in dietary deficiencies or the bird becoming overweight as well, which risks health issues. Zebra finches are often another popular choice however the males are often known to pluck the quail for nest lining, so may need to be separated during breeding seasons/attempts.
When including other energetic flying species, it is important to include extra length in the enclosure. While a 2x3 ft enclosure is suitable for a pair of Kings, finches or doves should ideally have a minimum enclosure length of 4 ft, or even more depending on the species. These birds do also appreciate extra height, 3 ft is adequate but more when possible allows the best exercise opportunity with the extra length.
If breeding the other species, ensure their fledglings have plenty of low shrubbery/branches etc. to get off the ground easily. While it is generally not an issue with well-tempered quail, some will pick at fledglings resulting in injury, in turn leading to further picking. An injured baby who passes on the ground will also likely be scavenged by the quail.
Never house King quail with any of the birds listed below. Differences in body language etc. create a high risk for altercations between birds, if there are size differences or different beak types/strengths this will often result in severe injury or fatalities for the smaller quail. Please keep in mind that despite many people often being lucky for a long time and claiming it's safe, luck runs out. Do not take the risk, by the time the quails suffer the consequences, the mistake will be too late to correct.
Parrots - Most species are a serious safety risk to quail due to their powerful sharp beaks. Even more generally docile species like Cockatiels can be pushed to biting when personal space is invaded. Only very select species such as Bourke's are safe in aviary settings.
Other Quail - Mostly the same issue as above, they are larger and stronger. Even fairly docile Coturnix should not be housed with them, especially as Males are unpredictable. Things can go smoothly for months or years, but it is always a possibility that should be avoided.
Large Doves/Pigeons - Despite being called peaceful, a lot of the larger species are quite unfriendly towards smaller birds. Only docile species similar in size to the quail should be considered for cohabitation especially for people with little experience in either species.
Other Gamebirds/Fowl - Due to larger size and differences in body languages, plus the high injury risk even in "gentle" altercations these species should never be allowed contact with the tiny Kings.
