Worming with Wazine

If I worm with Wazine, does that mean I'll never be able to eat my eggs again???
Also, it says the withdrawl time on birds meant for consumption is 2 weeks, is this accurate?
Please share you experiences with me!!

Quote:
The "don't use on birds intended for consumption" means immediate consumption. The "withdrawal" time (the time that you eat neither the birds nor their eggs) is officially 14 days.

Wazine must be repeated and only kills adult worms, not larvae. You will want to retreat in 2-4 weeks with a wormer that does kill larvae. Otherwise you have to keep using wazine over and over to kill the larvae that become adults.

Ivermectin and fenbendazole are the easiest to get and are effective and, though labeled for horses/cattle/swine, are great for poultry.

Ivermectin: pour-on, injectable (used orally), or horse-paste. Ask for dosage. 10 day withdrawal.
Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard): horse paste. bb-sized piece in the beak of each bird; 14 day withdrawal.

Do please worm first with Wazine. THen follow up with the more broad spectrum wormers and do them at least twice annually thereafter. Aim for when birds aren't laying so you don't have to toss their eggs. You CAN feed their eggs back to them during withdrawal.

Quote:
The "don't use on birds intended for consumption" means immediate consumption. The "withdrawal" time (the time that you eat neither the birds nor their eggs) is officially 14 days.

Wazine must be repeated and only kills adult worms, not larvae. You will want to retreat in 2-4 weeks with a wormer that does kill larvae. Otherwise you have to keep using wazine over and over to kill the larvae that become adults.

Ivermectin and fenbendazole are the easiest to get and are effective and, though labeled for horses/cattle/swine, are great for poultry.

Ivermectin: pour-on, injectable (used orally), or horse-paste. Ask for dosage. 10 day withdrawal.
Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard): horse paste. bb-sized piece in the beak of each bird; 14 day withdrawal.

Do please worm first with Wazine. THen follow up with the more broad spectrum wormers and do them at least twice annually thereafter. Aim for when birds aren't laying so you don't have to toss their eggs. You CAN feed their eggs back to them during withdrawal.

thank you! that was very helpful!!
How much paste do u give them? do i put it in their food/water or right down the beak? i cant imagine giving a low enough dosage. 100lbs is like a little dot or a speck....how am i going to divide that by more than 10?

With both the fenbendazole paste or the ivermectin, you give a large BB sized bit in the beak. Personally I prefer pour-on ivermectin rather than oral dosages as they spend more time in the system and thus have more effect.

Another option are the fenbendazole (SafeGuard) crumbles from First State Vet. They're labeled for poultry use, which is helpful. Just when you order, make sure you get labeling for your age of poultry. Sometimes they're labeled for young chicks, but the labeling is about to change to include adult poultry as it's great for them as well. That might be easier than the paste. BUt you have so many options! That's the good part!

great! and last thing.....whats the dosage for the pour on? it goes in their water right?

Quote:
Pour on actually gets dropped on the bird. I get the generic (not Ivomec brand) ivermectin (not eprinex) in the smallest bottle as only 1-6 drops are needed per bird. Mine was $14 for 250 ml which will last me ages.

I use a 3cc syringe with a 25 gauge needle - NOT that I will be injecting it, but because I find making drops from a hypodermic needle to be more accurate than doing so with a dropper. You hold the bird in your left hand against your body, with the syringe near (and uncapped). Find a place on the body (not the crest/wattles/legs) where there's a spot of naked skin. The lower back of the neck is a good place as there is little down there, easy to find a spot by pushing the down aside. You drop 1 to 6 drops there based on the dosage below. If you hit the fluff, then put a drop to replace it. I hold the needle pointing to the side of the bird, horizontal not up and down towards the bird. that way if she jumps, I don't poke her. Then just drop the drops on the naked skin.

I use that time also to carefully examine all of my birds - their weight, their abdomens, their vents if they're supposed to be laying (and even if not), their breathing (listen to it and feel the vibrations of it with your hand to feel for wheezing or rattles)... also for parasites (tho ivermectin does kill sucking lice for sure over a few days).

The dosage is:

1 drop for a small "micro" bantam, say the size of an OE hen
2 drops for an average small bantam - OE male, small bantam hens
3 drops for an average bantam sized bird or small hen
4 drops for a commercial sized hen or small large fowl hen
5 drops for a commercial sized roo or average large fowl hen
6 drops for larger bodied laying type birds
7 drops for giant breeds


As always I do recommend worming first with wazine if:

- the birds are under 4 months of age
- the birds haven't been wormed in over 6 mos w/broad spectrum wormer
- the bird is of an unknown worming history
- the bird is shedding worms, or their flock mates are shedding worms

That caution is to prevent an unknown heavy infestation from causing shock or blockage in a bird. Some say 'just do it' but I like to treat every bird of mine as if it were the most valuable irreplaceable bird in my flock. And so that's the advice I give to others - as if theres were that $500 once in a lifetime bird. That doesn't mean I recommend expensive things, but I darn sure don't recommend stuff that I think could harm.

Again I still recommend the pour-on of all the ivermectins because it has a chance to stay on the bird longer than the pour ons do through the mouth.

Just wanted to say thank you so much for this post.

kryptoniteqhs wrote:
If I worm with Wazine, does that mean I'll never be able to eat my eggs again???
Also, it says the withdrawl time on birds meant for consumption is 2 weeks, is this accurate?
Please share you experiences with me!!

The "don't use on birds intended for consumption" means immediate consumption. The "withdrawal" time (the time that you eat neither the birds nor their eggs) is officially 14 days.

Wazine must be repeated and only kills adult worms, not larvae. You will want to retreat in 2-4 weeks with a wormer that does kill larvae. Otherwise you have to keep using wazine over and over to kill the larvae that become adults.

Ivermectin and fenbendazole are the easiest to get and are effective and, though labeled for horses/cattle/swine, are great for poultry.

Ivermectin: pour-on, injectable (used orally), or horse-paste. Ask for dosage. 10 day withdrawal.
Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard): horse paste. bb-sized piece in the beak of each bird; 14 day withdrawal.

Do please worm first with Wazine. THen follow up with the more broad spectrum wormers and do them at least twice annually thereafter. Aim for when birds aren't laying so you don't have to toss their eggs. You CAN feed their eggs back to them during withdrawal.

Last edited by threehorses (07/29/2009 10:39 pm)


One question relating to this post. I have just wormed my flock and was looking to confirm how long before we could eat the eggs. So this post was very helpful, My question if we feed them back the eggs,(I assume they should be cooked) aren't we prolonging the time we can not consume the eggs or is 14 days still the correct time frame?

One question.. if you use ivermectin on chickens (which is the same stuff in Heatguard for dogs right?) Does that have effects? I heard that dogs with the merle pattern, such as collies cannot have ivermectin. Do you think the ivermectin residue would be harmful?