Recent content by farnorth

I'm guessing weasel too.

I have the same incubator. The temperature reading on it is not accurate and neither is the humidity reading. You will need to get something accurate to read the temperature and the humidity. I shoot for 30 to 35 % humidity for first 18 days. then 65 - 75 % for the hatch. When I tried to use...

I had one do that and it needed help....it was too sticky to move. Usually once they begin zipping they zip and hatch within half an hour....I'd say your chick might be stuck

Do you have a rooster? If you have a rooster and the eggs are fertile she can hatch them just fine. I would put a mark on them so that if any more eggs get layed in her nest by other hens you can remove them. You don't want the hens to keep adding to them, it works best for the original eggs to...

Sometimes I leave the ones with small aircells more upright for hatching so that liquid from the egg won't fill the aircell. Also aircells grow dramatically in the last 2 or 3 days. I had some tiny ones that got way larger at the very end. And for others they pipped way higher if their aircell...

Some people like them and some people don't. this I do know....you can't trust the temp and humidity readings that it will give you. You will need to get a reliable thermometer and a reliable hygrometer to use with it. This is true of almost any incubator you would buy. Also, keep the...

X2 dry oatmeal and wait a while on treats

If they are sex links (and they appear to be) then they will all be hens for sure. They don't make mistakes with sex links because the little roosters are a solid yellow chick with no other color and is white when grown. The pullets chicks are yellow with red tints on them and will be redish...

I have a similar size set up. I keep 16 most of the time. In summer I will let a broody raise some chicks and my numbers might climb to 30 with 16 being adults and 14 being youngsters. They do get to free range in nice weather. and are not confined to the run except for when I don't want...

I had one like that. I kept it in a cup. After a while I gave it some sugar water and electrolites from a dropper (just a drop not a lot you can get fluid into their lungs doing this) and she perked up and lived.

Usually takes at least 3 days after first mating to get fertile eggs.

I Isolate my hen in a large brooder cage inside the coop. Later her and her babies will be allowed out when the flock is free ranging. (when the babies are about 2 weeks of age). If it works like it did for me last year.... at night she will return to the nest area in the cage with her...

I'm feeding my broody chick starter. She doesn't need layer feed while she's not laying and I think since she's eating less she could use the extra protein that's in the chick starter. Also a little scratch grains. Yogurt is probably okay but it might not be a good time for veggies right now...

Double yolk eggs don't usually hatch well.

I find eggtopsies are a little easier to do if you first seal the egg in a zip lock baggie....that way you don't have to worry about a mess or smells...and you can have a look thrugh the plastic or toss it if you find you just can't do it...