I'd run some 12-2 UL to the coop and be done with it. Dunno your location but if it freezes where you are a heater in the water bucket makes life much easier.
JT
I'm a bit embarrassed with the condition of the control center. I've placed an order with the maintenance supervisor for a larger shelf but he keeps ignoring my requests and keeps building accoutrements for the 12 Cinnamon Queen chicks in the brooder.
JT
I was speaking of the video with the photo cell and through beam and a DIN rail full of stuff...
I admire your creativity with the 2 timers and yes it's very simple and straight forward.
I didn't even know you could get Astronomical DIN rail timers, that does make it so much better.
JT
That's some good information. So based on that you know the system uses about 250mAh in 24 hours plus how much energy it takes to open and close the door. A person just needs to know how much sun they get and size the solar panel and battery to suit their location.
For me when it get...
Well 3 amps at 12 volts is 36 watts... for however long the door is moving. If the solar cell won't keep the battery charged then get a bigger one like a 25 watt solar panel.
JT
I tried a photocell on mine and the first thunderstorm that came up had my chickens locked out in the rain... then there is the issue of trying to get a photocell to close at dusk and not before. On an overcast day the door will close too early.
JT
Look closely at the relay to see what the current draw is or use a multi meter with a current setting to find out the current draw of the system. Then you will know how much watts you need. If the solar cell is not in the optimum position that can cause low power.
JT
Even with power to the actuator once the limit switch is reached no current should flow. I assumed you just checked for voltage and not current? If you disconnect the battery from the actuator does it spark? This would indicate current is flowing.
I'm guessing your using a 12v timer and a 12v...