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What we are using is radiant heat & then circulating the air to get rid of the hot spots. I am thinking along the lines of heating on all four sides (top, bottom, & adjacent walls) if not all 6 sides. I would still use a air circulation.
Mabey I should explain what is in my head...
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We have learned power a little different. 110v & 120v are the same thing the person saying to 110v is referring to the minimum amount of voltage & 120v is the max normally running around 118v-119v so with the second phase you get 220v-240v normally between 236v-238v. When you add the...
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The peak is 350 amps. The big problem is getting the second phase of power up the hill. I originally figured $12K for running another wire up from the highway lines and changing out the transformer. For giggles I called the power company to get an estimate. The transformer is $14K...
240V doesn't mean anything to me without knowing the watts required or at least the amps. Since you said $2.5K a week (I think) I would say that is huge. I would probably look more into building my own system using those parts. That is using to much power. It would eating about 10% of your...
It isn't but by making it into a mist it will evaporate quicker. I wouldn't use it. I was just answering your question. I would use one of the foggers. They make a finer mist that can hang in the air for a short time. I have church here in a little bit but maybe tomorrow I can set one up &...
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Push a needle through it. This would be the same as the misters you are talking about. The water landing on the floor is what is going to raise the humidity.
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You could put some micro holes in a length of pipe & hook it up to a valve out of as washing machine.
I would only have it burst though because it would take longer for it to become a vapor then that of the fogger. I think I might use a fridge for my next one so I will probably use...
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Is it a part of a fog machine, green house humidifier, or evaporative cooler? I suppose it could also be a humidifier for produce or tobacco storage. The reason I'm so persistent is to figure out where some inexpensive components might be found. I've played with a couple of types of...
I seen ether a post or someones page on here that showed how to build one of these or similar. You get the controller from Lowes or HD. It is the ones you put in basement & hook an exhaust fan to.
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I think that is a mist maker or foger which ever you want to call it. I was considering one if I need it along with a (I think this is what it is called) humidostat (I'm sure the spelling is wrong). I have like 6 of them around here.
I got my fans years ago when I got this old computer from the military. It give a different twist to the wards computer desk. It was a desk that was a computer. All of the drawers that you pulled out was stacked with circuit boards. I got a lot of great stuff out of that old thing. That was...
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I would think that you should have a deflector over the light so that you get more even heat. The eggs on the bottom would get more inferred heat & the ones on top would be heated more by air temp.
That is what it is all about. You do it because you can. If you can't then you don't. I stopped modifying for now to see if what I have works. I will make some changes in the future after I can research some items. I have heard to the far right how good these Reptemp are & tow the far left...
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I understand you wanting to stay with what is proven for you & if you are getting a 95% hatch rate & all is going well then I would be slow to change myself. I have never used a wafer but I'm sure there could be better things out there. As far as a lawn mower part on a car I could get...
Oh. I forgot to mention that if you put a lot of things like jars of water or rocks which I have both in mine It helps greatly in temp swing. My air temp swing is more then 10^ but I put a thermometer one of the outside inside ones in a 4 oz water bottle & found that the solid object temp...
I was thinking a rheostat might be a good idea as a primary control & use 2 T stat as backups or better way of putting it is bypasses. The hot water one would be of little use but if you had one to cut in & bypass the R stat if the temp dropped to low & one to disconnect power if it went to...
Thank you for the reply. I was beginning to think it was a bad post. As for the dimer switch: I don't think that would work unless you could control the temp on the out side of the box as well. If you are exchanging air in the box with air on the out side & that temp changes then the rate of...