🐔 Hens 8+ Years Old - What Contributed to Their Longevity?

[Copperhead1969]

This thread is a spinoff of this discussion: In your flock, what is the average lifespan of your hens?

If you have (or have had) a senior hen eight years or older, what do you think contributed to her long life?

Please share anything you think made a difference; diet, housing, breed, how often they laid, how you managed predators, or anything else you believe helped.

Here are a few helpful prompts to guide your post:

• How old is she now (or how old was she when she passed)
• What breed(s) is she?
• Where was she purchased or sourced (self-hatched, hatchery, breeder, feed store, rescue, etc.)? If self-hatched, was she raised by a broody hen or incubator/hand-raised?
• Is she still laying? If not, when did she stop?
• What was her egg-laying frequency like during her prime years?
• Has she ever been seriously ill or injured?
• What’s her diet like (commercial feed, kitchen scraps, supplements, etc.)?
• What is her water setup like (type of waterer, how often it’s cleaned or changed)?
• Does she free-range or stay in a run? Is the run enclosed, partially covered, or fully open?
• How often do you deworm or treat for parasites? What treatment do you use?
• What’s your climate like?
• Do you provide heat in the winter or any other special accommodations?
• What are the coop conditions like (space, ventilation, cleanliness, etc.)?
• What has her flock size been like over the years?
• Has there ever been a breeding rooster in the flock?
• Where is she in the pecking order?
• What is her general behavior or personality like (e.g., calm, dominant, friendly, skittish)?

Photos welcome! Let’s celebrate your older gals and learn what might help other keepers give their flocks long, healthy lives.

I'll get called a liar but this is 100% true. My oldest game hen ever was 26 , she only laid 1 or 2 eggs a year at the end but i did my best to hatch every one of them. She was lively and was always at my feed bucket. I raised her from a chick , she was 1 month old with a broken leg when i got her. She was my first hen and got a lot of attention. I have one now that is 18 and going storng.

 

[BurbCoop]

I'll get called a liar but this is 100% true. My oldest game hen ever was 26 , she only laid 1 or 2 eggs a year at the end but i did my best to hatch every one of them. She was lively and was always at my feed bucket. I raised her from a chick , she was 1 month old with a broken leg when i got her. She was my first hen and got a lot of attention. I have one now that is 18 and going storng.

That is awesome!! I suspect them being game hens plays into that longevity somewhat, but what other factors do you think are contributing to their age? Give us the details!

 

[BantamMama]

This thread is a spinoff of this discussion: In your flock, what is the average lifespan of your hens?

If you have (or have had) a senior hen eight years or older, what do you think contributed to her long life?

Please share anything you think made a difference; diet, housing, breed, how often they laid, how you managed predators, or anything else you believe helped.

Here are a few helpful prompts to guide your post:

• How old is she now (or how old was she when she passed)
• What breed(s) is she?
• Where was she purchased or sourced (self-hatched, hatchery, breeder, feed store, rescue, etc.)? If self-hatched, was she raised by a broody hen or incubator/hand-raised?
• Is she still laying? If not, when did she stop?
• What was her egg-laying frequency like during her prime years?
• Has she ever been seriously ill or injured?
• What’s her diet like (commercial feed, kitchen scraps, supplements, etc.)?
• What is her water setup like (type of waterer, how often it’s cleaned or changed)?
• Does she free-range or stay in a run? Is the run enclosed, partially covered, or fully open?
• How often do you deworm or treat for parasites? What treatment do you use?
• What’s your climate like?
• Do you provide heat in the winter or any other special accommodations?
• What are the coop conditions like (space, ventilation, cleanliness, etc.)?
• What has her flock size been like over the years?
• Has there ever been a breeding rooster in the flock?
• Where is she in the pecking order?
• What is her general behavior or personality like (e.g., calm, dominant, friendly, skittish)?

Photos welcome! Let’s celebrate your older gals and learn what might help other keepers give their flocks long, healthy lives.

I first started raising chickens 8 (Mar 2017) years ago. I chose all bantam breeds, and several of my girls are still living today. My 8-year-old hens are 1 Mille Fleur d’Uccles, 2 Porcelain d’Uccles, 3 Polish (1 is a frizzle), 1 B&B Red Old English Game Bantam, and 1 Ohiki bantam. I also had an 8 year old Black Tailed Japanese Buff bantam that died earlier this year (just about her 8th b-day) due to an infected crop that would clear up.

My original flock consisted of about 15 chickens irrc, so many of them have passed on through the years. Most of these girls came from Murry McMurray, with the Polish bantams and the OEGB coming from Meyer Hatchery. The Ohiki came from a local breeder at a poultry swap.

They ate Purina feed up until last year when I switched them over to a local farm’s feed. It’s a corn free, soy free layer feed from Ernst Farms in western MD. I’ve treated them preemptively once a month for coccidia for the past 4 years or so after losing several from the disease. They are in a large enclosed run because we have too many hawks, foxes, and other predators to let these small girls free range. I treated them for worms once or twice in the beginning, but have not done so since and have not had any problems.

All of my old girls had stopped laying eggs by 6 or 7, however since I switched them to Ernst Feeds, three of them began laying again this year. Wild. A Porcelain and the Mille Fleur d’Uccles began laying over the end of the winter, and now my Ohiki started laying again about a month ago. They each are laying anywhere from 2-4 eggs a week I’d say.

The coop I have has an attached run that is covered, but the large run (10’ x 10’) that we built and attached to the coop run is not covered. We’re hoping to get a larger coop and run setup this summer as I have added several large chickens to the flock now and we’re outgrowing our current space. I’ve tried the deep litter method, but that led to respiratory issues for my Mille Fleur, so I simply change out the medium flake bedding once or twice a week.

Our coop is a pre-made coop and run from a local place in town. It’s well made and has ventilation and some insulation in the roof area, though this year we got mice for the first time and they’ve chewed at the insulation. We’re going to be addressing that too. We do not use heat lamps in the winter and everyone has been just fine. We do put up a tarp on the side of the attached coop run in the winter when it gets very cold so they have some protection from the wind and snow. That seems to be enough for them.

The flock size has stayed pretty constant between 12-15 chickens, although chicken math got me this year and I added 3 bantams and 3 full sized babies to the mix. They’re going to push me up to 19, so that’s why we’ve got to expand. Darned chicken math will get you every time.

My bantams have always been friendly enough, some more than others, but generally they’re nice girls. My OEGB and Ohiki are by far the friendliest of the lot, with the Japanese Buff coming in after them. The other girls are sweet, but they don’t want to be handled, especially the d’Uccles. LOL

I have one breeding OEGB rooster who is about 4 years old now (his girlfriend is the OEGB), but he is the only one.

As for pecking order, the smallest girl OEGB is still one of the top in the pecking order. My gentle Ohiki, sadly, dropped in the pecking order earlier this year (she’s healthy, but very gentle and slowing down). Some of the newer large breeds started head pecking her and so did two of the Polish. They did a lot of damage to her head feathers to the point where they won’t regrow, so she’s a house chicken at night and goes out into a separate run in the main run during the day. She’s an absolute love.

Hopefully I answered everything without being too long and wordy. LOL

 

[Karen Glatz]

My matriarch just died a couple of weeks ago. She was 12 years old and had been in good health even laying an egg every couple of months (very distinct olive color). In the last week, she just seemed to give up, eating very little and lying in a divot in the ground most of the day. My flock of 12 mixed, feed store, easy keepers has one Cochin rooster and free ranges in a fenced 4000 sq ft city lot next to my house. Little predation. The flock is somewhat protected by a flock of crows nested in a large tree next door. They chase away hawks to protect their own young.

We are in a Mediterranean like climate in Oregon, so no heater, Lots of dense trees and shade in the summer with a mister and ice blocks for very hot days. Food stored in galvi trash barrels and feeder suspended in a tarp covered hoop house -- layer pellets with daily dried BSF, berries, apples, plums, asian pears, grapes, grass clippings and figs (all home grown, no chemicals) in season. Water in a 3 gal bucket with chicken cups suspended just above ground from a rope in the 'food court'.

Coop is a converted 4 ft high Rubbermaid lawnmower shed, with a 2x4 for a roost, that opens front and top for cleaning and airing. I added two cat door windows and an automatic, sun sensor, pop door. Deep litter.

She was always top hen until a year or two ago, but still near top. Her demeanor was matriarchal, not mean but willing to put other hens in their place if they irritated her, though she deferred to the cochin rooster after he (accidentally) joined the flock. The next layer down is in their 9th year and still laying a couple a week. And I have 4 that are in their 3rd year. I've had a hen die off every couple of years from injury or illness. I'll start another 3 or 4 this fall to keep egg production steady.

 

[BurbCoop]

I first started raising chickens 8 (Mar 2017) years ago. I chose all bantam breeds, and several of my girls are still living today. My 8-year-old hens are 1 Mille Fleur d’Uccles, 2 Porcelain d’Uccles, 3 Polish (1 is a frizzle), 1 B&B Red Old English Game Bantam, and 1 Ohiki bantam. I also had an 8 year old Black Tailed Japanese Buff bantam that died earlier this year (just about her 8th b-day) due to an infected crop that would clear up.

My original flock consisted of about 15 chickens irrc, so many of them have passed on through the years. Most of these girls came from Murry McMurray, with the Polish bantams and the OEGB coming from Meyer Hatchery. The Ohiki came from a local breeder at a poultry swap.

They ate Purina feed up until last year when I switched them over to a local farm’s feed. It’s a corn free, soy free layer feed from Ernst Farms in western MD. I’ve treated them preemptively once a month for coccidia for the past 4 years or so after losing several from the disease. They are in a large enclosed run because we have too many hawks, foxes, and other predators to let these small girls free range. I treated them for worms once or twice in the beginning, but have not done so since and have not had any problems.

All of my old girls had stopped laying eggs by 6 or 7, however since I switched them to Ernst Feeds, three of them began laying again this year. Wild. A Porcelain and the Mille Fleur d’Uccles began laying over the end of the winter, and now my Ohiki started laying again about a month ago. They each are laying anywhere from 2-4 eggs a week I’d say.

The coop I have has an attached run that is covered, but the large run (10’ x 10’) that we built and attached to the coop run is not covered. We’re hoping to get a larger coop and run setup this summer as I have added several large chickens to the flock now and we’re outgrowing our current space. I’ve tried the deep litter method, but that led to respiratory issues for my Mille Fleur, so I simply change out the medium flake bedding once or twice a week.

Our coop is a pre-made coop and run from a local place in town. It’s well made and has ventilation and some insulation in the roof area, though this year we got mice for the first time and they’ve chewed at the insulation. We’re going to be addressing that too. We do not use heat lamps in the winter and everyone has been just fine. We do put up a tarp on the side of the attached coop run in the winter when it gets very cold so they have some protection from the wind and snow. That seems to be enough for them.

The flock size has stayed pretty constant between 12-15 chickens, although chicken math got me this year and I added 3 bantams and 3 full sized babies to the mix. They’re going to push me up to 19, so that’s why we’ve got to expand. Darned chicken math will get you every time.

My bantams have always been friendly enough, some more than others, but generally they’re nice girls. My OEGB and Ohiki are by far the friendliest of the lot, with the Japanese Buff coming in after them. The other girls are sweet, but they don’t want to be handled, especially the d’Uccles. LOL

I have one breeding OEGB rooster who is about 4 years old now (his girlfriend is the OEGB), but he is the only one.

As for pecking order, the smallest girl OEGB is still one of the top in the pecking order. My gentle Ohiki, sadly, dropped in the pecking order earlier this year (she’s healthy, but very gentle and slowing down). Some of the newer large breeds started head pecking her and so did two of the Polish. They did a lot of damage to her head feathers to the point where they won’t regrow, so she’s a house chicken at night and goes out into a separate run in the main run during the day. She’s an absolute love.

Hopefully I answered everything without being too long and wordy. LOL

Great post and information. I wish Ernst Feeds was available out our way in Colorado, that stuff looks great!

 

[BurbCoop]

My matriarch just died a couple of weeks ago. She was 12 years old and had been in good health even laying an egg every couple of months (very distinct olive color). In the last week, she just seemed to give up, eating very little and lying in a divot in the ground most of the day. My flock of 12 mixed, feed store, easy keepers has one Cochin rooster and free ranges in a fenced 4000 sq ft city lot next to my house. Little predation. The flock is somewhat protected by a flock of crows nested in a large tree next door. They chase away hawks to protect their own young.

We are in a Mediterranean like climate in Oregon, so no heater, Lots of dense trees and shade in the summer with a mister and ice blocks for very hot days. Food stored in galvi trash barrels and feeder suspended in a tarp covered hoop house -- layer pellets with daily dried BSF, berries, apples, plums, asian pears, grapes, grass clippings and figs (all home grown, no chemicals) in season. Water in a 3 gal bucket with chicken cups suspended just above ground from a rope in the 'food court'.

Coop is a converted 4 ft high Rubbermaid lawnmower shed, with a 2x4 for a roost, that opens front and top for cleaning and airing. I added two cat door windows and an automatic, sun sensor, pop door. Deep litter.

She was always top hen until a year or two ago, but still near top. Her demeanor was matriarchal, not mean but willing to put other hens in their place if they irritated her, though she deferred to the cochin rooster after he (accidentally) joined the flock. The next layer down is in their 9th year and still laying a couple a week. And I have 4 that are in their 3rd year. I've had a hen die off every couple of years from injury or illness. I'll start another 3 or 4 this fall to keep egg production steady.

12 years is a long run! She was obviously well taken care of.

It is interesting the noted demeanor of your head hen, ours is the exact same way. Very matriarchal, not mean or aggressive, but can redirect or put the drama makers in their place with just a look or slight correction.

 

[BantamMama]

Great post and information. I wish Ernst Feeds was available out our way in Colorado,

 

[BantamMama]

Yes, I hope you can find something locally made out where you are. If it wasn’t for my local feed store that started to carry it, I never would have known. It’s a family owned feed store, which is why I think they carry items I can’t find at TSC or Southern States.

 

[BDutch]

Personally I think it's mainly genetic luck of the draw if birds get into these upper age ranges, since I have a very mixed flock and use the same husbandry for the whole group, but some birds make it to 3 or 4, and others to 8 or 9.

I currently have one 9-yr-old Welsummer. She was purchased at 7 weeks old from a feed store lot. She's currently laying (got an egg today!) but her laying cycle is short and spotty at this point and the eggshells are poor quality so she needs calcium supplements during her short laying season. She's never been a great layer, very average on that front, which has probably helped with her longevity.

Im convinced you hit the nail saying these two things.
1. Genetics (with genes that are not deformed for max egg laying or inbreeding for prize winning standard looks).
2. Chickens who have a short laying cycle are getting older (in general). Their bodies recover better from the egg laying season during the longer winter stop.

Several years ago the Louise Bolk institute in the Netherlands gathered information about longevity in backyard flock. Not a scientific research but they could make a few statements on the gathered information.
A few old heritage breeds with a large gene pool and barnyard mixes stood out in longevity. Im not sure anymore if free ranging was a indicator too. The article is in Dutch, I posted it on BYC some years ago (partly translated). I try to find it and post the link in this thread if I find it.

 

[BDutch]

In my search for the article/flyer ^^ I found another one who is worthwhile reading from https://www.kippen.be/hoe-oud-worden-kippen/ (belgian website/institute).

I translated the most relevant part for you:

Tips for Giving Chickens the Longest Possible Life

As chicken keepers, we are responsible for providing the best possible care for our chickens. This includes taking measures to make their lives as healthy and quality as possible. By following a few simple guidelines, you can ensure your chickens' lives are as long and comfortable as possible.

1. Provide a nutritious diet: Make sure your chickens have access to high-quality feed. A balanced diet with the right mix of protein, calcium, vitamins, and minerals is essential.
2. Keep their habitat clean: A clean environment is important for preventing disease. Clean the coop regularly, remove soiled bedding, and maintain adequate biosecurity.
3. Provide clean, fresh water: Chickens need clean water daily.
4. Protect them from predators: Install fencing, cover the run, install an automatic coop door, and watch for signs of predators in the area.
5. Regular health checks: Early detection of health problems can help prevent serious problems. Keep the environment stress-free: Try to minimize loud noises, overcrowding, and other stressful factors.
6. Provide free-range and dust baths: Chickens are naturally active animals. Giving them the opportunity to roam and dust bathe helps keep them happy and healthy.

Summary

The lifespan of chickens depends on several factors, including breed, diet, living conditions, and genetics. Generally, chickens can live between 5 and 10 years, with some breeds known to live up to 15 years.

Hybrid chickens live shorter than purebred chickens. Hybrids live an average of only two to four years, while purebred chickens can live up to 10 years or more.

For more information about chickens and health issues, please visit our "Health" page.