1 - 3 week old chicks runny or solid poo?

jherrera59

Songster
Feb 7, 2019
42
211
109
Yuma AZ
First time chicken mom here! We got 9 babies on Tuesday that are about 2.5 weeks old and their poo has been a little runny - not watery, just not solid. I didn't think anything of it, just thought it was normal for babies UNTIL we got 9 more today (Thursday) from a different store (1-1.5 weeks old) and when taking them from the box to our brooder I noticed their poo was solid. Hmmmm - I'm hoping it's something super simple like their feed? They had antibiotics while at the feed store? Please help! Thank you... Other than that my babies are sleeping... well... like babies! They took several hours to "get to know" each other before they snuggled together but aren't they just precious?:love:love:love Oh! And pay not attention to my chicken math - I told hubby we were only gonna get a half dozen or "so":idunno
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In my experience slightly wet soft looking poop and solid poop are normal. Unless the poop is completely watery, bloody, a strange colour (e.g green or yellow) or has evidence of parasites, it's nothing to worry about.
What are you feeding them?
 
First time chicken mom here! We got 9 babies on Tuesday that are about 2.5 weeks old and their poo has been a little runny - not watery, just not solid. I didn't think anything of it, just thought it was normal for babies UNTIL we got 9 more today (Thursday) from a different store (1-1.5 weeks old) and when taking them from the box to our brooder I noticed their poo was solid. Hmmmm - I'm hoping it's something super simple like their feed? They had antibiotics while at the feed store? Please help! Thank you... Other than that my babies are sleeping... well... like babies! They took several hours to "get to know" each other before they snuggled together but aren't they just precious?:love:love:love Oh! And pay not attention to my chicken math - I told hubby we were only gonna get a half dozen or "so":idunnoView attachment 1680836 View attachment 1680838
If you have poop photos you would like to share :)

What are you feeding?
It could very well be feed - hopefully it will straighten out over the next few days.

Chickens have 2 types of poop. One is "normal" this is a solid(ish) formed poop that usually has a white "cap" on it. The other one is "cecal" poop - this is a loose pudding type poop, that is stinky, sticky and can be from light brown to almost black.
Color and consistency of these 2 types of poop vary with what they eat and how much they drink. (in hot weather you may see a lot of loose stools due to increase in water consumption)

Feed stores can be different in how chicks are fed and watered, they may have been using a different feed as well.

I think you are o.k. if all are active, eating/drinking. If you notice any lethargy, going off feed - something like that - then be concerned.

I'm not sure what type of antibiotics they have at your feed store? Hopefully you will never need those.

Cute babies! I hope all goes well for you.
 
In my experience slightly wet soft looking poop and solid poop are normal. Unless the poop is completely watery, bloody, a strange colour (e.g green or yellow) or has evidence of parasites, it's nothing to worry about.
What are you feeding them?
Thank you! I’ve been keeping an eye on their poop and it’s not watery or discolored or stinky. I’m gonna separate a few to check individual poos today. We’re feeding them Ace Hi Quick-Gro Crumbles that the feed store sells.
 
We’re feeding them Ace Hi Quick-Gro Crumbles that the feed store sells.
Good to learn to read the ingredients and nutrition percentages on the tag sewn into bottom of bag.
Also the mfg date, sometimes on tag, sometimes printed on bottom bag sewing band ...sometimes easy to decode, others not so much.

Looks like your feed has good info online:
https://www.starmilling.com/product/quick-gro-8-week-crumble.php
Seems this is a broiler feed, 22% protein could be an issue...not sure tho.
 
What all and how exactly are you feeding?
What is the 'thermo' thingy on the floor?
How are you heating them?
Only giving them Ace Hi Quick-Gro Crumbles that we got at the feed store when we bought them. Using the feeder shown in the pic. That’s a satellite thermometer on the floor so I can monitor temps in there. We’ve got a brooder/heat lamp over one end to warm them. I’m using different levels of rungs on the back of a chair to raise or lower if the temps are too cool or warm and keeping it between 85-90. We’re going to separate a few at a time to monitor the poops a little better. Other than that they all seem happy and like they’re getting along well‍♀️
 
High heat can make for runny poops, they drink more water.

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
-If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
-If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
-If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. If you do use a heat bulb make sure it's specifically for poultry, some heat bulbs for food have teflon coatings that can kill birds. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.
 
What all and how exactly are you feeding?
What is the 'thermo' thingy on the floor?
How are you heating them?
High heat can make for runny poops, they drink more water.

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
-If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
-If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
-If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. If you do use a heat bulb make sure it's specifically for poultry, some heat bulbs for food have teflon coatings that can kill birds. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.
Thank you! Great tip with the dimmer switch! When you say keep them as cool as possible how cool do you mean? I’m just going by a temp range for different ages 1-6 that I got online. We’ll be putting them outside in about a week when our temps will be 70s/80s during the day and 50s at night. We’ll put their lamp in the coop with them of course. Thanks so much for all the info - it’s very helpful!
 
When you say keep them as cool as possible how cool do you mean?
Turn the heat down until they squeak, then bump it back up..... go by behavior as explained in my notes.


I’m just going by a temp range for different ages 1-6 that I got online.
What is this? Got a link?
 

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