1 round worm found in poop, must I deworm? I try to be organic

[spankarelli]

I currently have 15 hens and 1 rooster. 3 hens were given to me recently and they came with a set of worms, that I'm sure has spread to the rest of the flock in the 3 weeks since I first got the new girls. I found a pile of poo with a large worm in it so who know who it came from but I am trying to find a natural way to worm them so we can continue to eat the eggs. My 2 year old and 1 year old sons would not be happy to be without eggs in the morning any more than I would.

I cannot find a USA source for this Verm-X.

Can you tell me where I may find it? Also is there a preferred way to distribute it to them? How do I know if everyone is getting some?

Is this natural wormer strong enough to kill them all and not just some? I really do not want to have to go the route of antibiotics or the really strong wormers that we cannot eat the eggs while being treated but I want to make sure we get them all. If we do have to go the non-natural approach, which wormer is best and how long do you have to stop eating eggs? I'm reading all that I can about worming my flock but feel like I'm turning in circles since some people say somethings and others contradict it. I just want rid of the worms and my flock to be healthy and happy. Any suggestions are welcomed. I really could use some all-inclusive info on the subject. Thanks everyone for all the posts!

 

[Duckfarmer1]

Yes, you must unfortunately. If you see a worm, it's likely they're more heavily infested than you think as the worms rarely release. THey spread by shedding eggs and living their lives in the digestive tract. So you have an infestation.

Was the worm flat or round?

One worm, unfortunately, is just a sign of many of them. If they have worms, the worms so irritate their intestines and cecum that they will not have the nutrition to lay normally. This might be one of the problems. MOre on the laying aspect shortly.

If you have an infestation (and finding worms means it's possible) then you must treat the infestation with a lighter wormer first (here in the states it's piperazine 17%) and then follow up in 2-4 weeks with something more broad spectrum (here in the states it's ivermectin or fenbendazole). That way you don't kill all the worms at first, which can shock, clog, or sometimes make a bird seriously ill. Instead you paralyze just the adults so that most of them pass out. The follow up stronger wormer kills the larva so that you don't have to keep worming over and over again. Then you can do it twice a year and use all the natural stuff inbetween.

Don't forget - worms do pass into the eggs.

Some people advocate worming more often. I've long been a fan of "the less chemicals the better" but unfortunately there's a time where you simply must use them. Organic hens aren't much good if they're sick or wormy.

On the laying hen, are you feeding her mostly a laying mash feed that has vitamins and minerals, a minimum of grain (less than 10% of her total ration), and free choice oyster shell? If not, switching to that could help with egg binding as often egg binding starts as a calcium/D3 deficiency where eggs don't pass as well because they're not fully hard. Or they're shell-less. If you're not feeding her that way, I'd start. Also if you can get penicillin, I'd give that to her daily for three days as a shot as if she has an infection because of retained eggs it will help. Let me know what you can get there as far as penicillin goes and we'll work with you on that.

On the wormers, piperazine = the wazine. You can actually order that from Cackle Hatchery and they'll deliver to Guam. But do you have any places there locally that sell wormers, etc? I can't seem to find much online and I'd like to help you find them.

Piperazine will normally be piperazine 17% liquid. It's also for cattle and swine. Fenbendazole is usually a paste for horses or cattle (marketed as SafeGuard in the states). Those two products are usable.

So if I buy the safeguard liquid it’s the one with a picture of large animals on it? How do you cut the dose. Does it have that info?

 

[Eggcessive]

This is an old thread, so I have not read it. Here is what you need, and dosage is 1/4 ml per pound given orally to each chicken, once and again in 10 days for roundworms. To treat capillary or gapeworms, dosage is the same but give it for 5 straight days.

 

[Kiki]

So if I buy the safeguard liquid it’s the one with a picture of large animals on it? How do you cut the dose. Does it have that info?

Safe-guard Goats

• Kiki
• Apr 16, 2018

Safe-guard Horses

• Kiki
• Apr 16, 2018

You need to weigh your birds or figure out a good estimate of what they weigh.
You will dose each one with syringe straight to the beak or squirt the meds into a small piece of bread and pop it in their mouth.

 

[Duckfarmer1]

Quote:

Good on you. Too often those that want to stay away from chemicals do so at the expense of their birds.

I would suggest taking a fecal sample to your vet now and again in six months. It might allow you to stay away from the chemical wormers or it might tell you that you are forced to have them on a program.

Some of us live in areas that there is very little choice in the matter. Its either use the chemicals or lose our birds.

Ok, so...after I use the chemical deworming..how long do we not eat eggs?

 

[Eggcessive]

Most people toss the eggs for 14 days after the last dose, so 24 days total if doing the once and again in 10 days dosage. Some people ignore the withdrawal time, but I would not sell any eggs until the withdrawal time is over.

 

[Duckfarmer1]

Most people toss the eggs for 14 days after the last dose, so 24 days total if doing the once and again in 10 days dosage. Some people ignore the withdrawal time, but I would not sell any eggs until the withdrawal time is over.

Ok thanks. I don’t know what I would do with out this forum