I'm trying to keep my flock organic and started using Verm-Ex also and it seems to work well. It's made in England but they now have a USA website, too. It's a liquid and you can put it in their feed. I give it to my girls in some pieces of whole grain bread, this way I know I got it into them. You give it for 3 days every month. So far so good. You also can put food grade DE in their food routinely but so far I like the Verm-Ex. Good luck!
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Probably because DE does NOT worm. I love DE, but I know that for which it's good and that for which it's not.
If you're finding any worms in the droppings, that means your birds are seriously infested.
Good on the worming! i've heard of the product you're talking about. You might be able to get flubenvet from australian sites in more forms.
In the mean time, honestly Fenbendazole here is a wonderful product and highly recommended. It will kill the larvae stages of roundworms. It's also effective against all roundworms, not just large roundworms (which is what Flubenvet - which is Flubendazole - treats).
It's the same family and available in a number of different forms here as SafeGuard.
I probably need to worm my girls... I haven't gotten an egg in over 3 months if not longer. They went thru a molt and never picked back up... not that i am forcing with a light or anything.... I did give the wazine about 1 1/2 months ago and haven't seen any worms but some can be too small to see with the eye. How would you administer the safegaurd to a chicken? I have used it on dogs- if we are talking about the horse paste. it was effective and not harmful. please let me know if it is the horse wormer safeguard you are talking about and how much each hen should get. I have 6 fbcm's, 1 glw, and 2 white rocks. Thanks in advance..
Quote: TSC has the Safeguard for horses for $8.99 for a single dose(for one horse). I think you can put it in the water but not sure. I have about 30 plus and I wormed them all by hand by myself it took maybe 30 min. I gave each a pea size dose for grown and the younger birds got a little smaller amount.
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If you use the horse wormer, it's a BB sized or pencil eraser sized bit in the beak. Try to get the ivermectin with pyrantel for tapes, too.
Really ivermectin is NOT strong on birds. Neither is fenbendazole. There's a reason they call it "SAFEguard" and that is that it's very very gentle and safe. Ivermectin can be used wayyyyy over the usual dosage with a huge safety margin. They use it for people in third world countries who get worms from rivers, etc. It's much more gentle on the system to do a few times a year than worms are on the system.
Worms irritate the digestive tract, causing inflammation, and inflammation is often a precursor to inflammatory cells which are precursons to cancer. Inflammation starves the bird, disallowing it from digesting food, causing the immune system to lower, causing the bird to be greatly more likely to get diseases.
So really - four times a year - or all year of having parasites in the gut.......
THE SAFEGUARD IS THIS HORSE OR WHAT AND WHAT IS THE AMOUNT TO GIVE??? DO YOU REPEAT THE IVERMECTIN OR SAFEGUARD IN TWO WEEKS OR IS ONE TIME O.K. ALSO WHAT IS THE STRENGTH OF BOTH PRODUCTS TO LOOK FOR ON THE LABEL. YOU ALSO SAID WORMS CAN PASS IN EGGS...IF ANYONE HAD EATEN EGGS PROPERLY COOKED FROM CHICKENS WITH WORMS SHOULD THERE BE CONCERN OF HUMAN TRANSMISSION????THANKS
The dose is a pea size amount to each bird ( grown birds a little less on younger) orally. I use the horse bc its cheaper than the goat. Its the same 10%. I think you can mix in the water also but not sure the amount on that.
its very unlikely that worms will go into the eggs. Its technically possible but I have yet to find someone who actually saw a round worm or other inside an egg. The idea is that the worm would crawl down the gut and then up the oviduct...unlikely...any worm that comes out is being shed and is usually and likely dead. worms inside are eating feed and have no reason to leave unless there are tons of them.
The think is that if you free range, you have worms...most chickens carry a load and they handle it with their systems. Thats the nature of outdoor animals that eat bugs. Earthworms carry the eggs and they are eaten by chickens!
I use the natural stuff, but they are only preventatives and usually they just help the chickens keep the population or load of worms down. DE does not worm chickens....it MAY prevent but the theory is just anecdotal, in that the crystals may nick the skin of the worm and kill it. If that were true then you would see worms coming out of your birds regularly.
creating an environment inside the chicken that is not friendly to worms is a good thing to do but you cant do it all the time or the worms will adapt. You can pulse acv (apple cider vinegar) in water. Cayenne in food...I buy a big bottle and put around 1/4 c. in the feeder with the pellets.
I have tried vermex and it doesnt work...I had a huge worm problem pop up in a certain number of birds while I was using in as per the directions....
You can try pumpkin seeds chopped fresh in the cusinart...there is a chemical in the seeds that gets released upon chopping. it paralyzes the worms....but be aware that this is a "chemical" much like what is used in wormers...
I believe that I have posted my worming regime in this thread so I wont go into detail here. I use wazine and repeat in one week with pour on eprinex. Eprinex has no withdrawal time frame so you can repeat that in a week.
If you use the fen you have to wait 2 weeks to eat eggs after the last does. I get the chicken versions from randall burkey or one of the other farm suppliers online, so I dont know about the horse doses.
There is an oral called wormex or something that is the fen stuff...and its 3 drops by beak.
I prefer water doses because I have so many chickens that its hard to be sure I get them all.
If your birds are young, not in a molt, and not laying, you really need to worm them (also check carefully for mites and treat for that if necessary.) In the winter laying will slow due to shorter days but you can provide them some light in the evening or morning with a bulb clamp lamp in the coop on a timer. If they still arent laying and are below 5 or 6 years old, I would strongly suggest worming.
It is not hard on them...its harder on them to be carrying around a load or worms...and you are paying for feed for worms.
Its pathetic to let them starve to death to the point that their production shuts down because you are worried about being "natural" whatever that means.
Natural chicken raising means that you control medications and throw the eggs away when you are treating them.
Please worm your chickens! Dont overthink it, just do it!
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Actually, there have been a couple cases of this happening to folks on this site in just the past year. You can poke through the archives to see their stories. I thought one of them had a pic attached, but I couldn't find it.
well, thats a horrifying idea...but Im not going to dwell on it because I worm my chickens twice per year. It would have to be a huge overgrowth of worms and someone ignoring worms coming out in poo. If you see a worm, you have worms....its that simple...
In reality, we all eat bugs in our packaged foods every day. There is an amount of bugs that is considered OK to food processors. So, the idea that a worm might be in a hard boiled egg is not the end of the world. If I cracked an egg and there was a worm in it, I would likely throw it out.
but I still think its unusual...and I am more wary of the completely "organic" food producers than I am of the "natural" food producers.
I would prefer a farmer to be able to use meds and withhold products as necessary than to think that a whole segment of food producers are unable to make use of meds if they need them.