16% hatch rate

pinkl72

Songster
Dec 18, 2022
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I put 73 eggs in the incubator and am on day 24 and have 12 chicks hatched. Some of the eggs are bantam so I put them in lockdown on day 16. I candled the eggs too and 47 of the eggs looked promising - mostly dark except for the air cell. But only 12 pipped and hatched. This is the 3rd round. The 1st time only one hatched but I didn't know I had the machine on custom mode so I never changed the temperature. In retrospect, I'm surprised one hatched. The second time, 19 out of approximately 70 hatched, one had a curled in foot, one hatched way late and looked like Sloth from The Goonies, and one I found on her back in the brooder and died quickly after. Sixteen were happy, healthy chicks.
Upon researching after the chick with the curled in foot, the Hubbard Incubation Guide states turning eggs 96 times per day was optimal. My incubator was only set to turn every 90 minutes. So on day 4, I reprogrammed it to turn every 10 minutes (I meant to do 15 minutes but I mistakenly do 10 and read it wouldn't hurt it, so I left it). I also read turning was most important days 3-7 so on a day after day 10 but before day 16, I reprogrammed the incubator to turn every 60 minutes because it seemed turning more frequently wasn't necessary anymore.
I also used some external thermometers to determine my incubator wasn't accurate and known of my thermometers were either. I had a meat thermometer which I could calibrate and it said the incubator was 3⁰F lower than it actually was. I'm unsure of the accuracy, however, considering that thermometer has a probe designed to be submerged in meat so I dont know if it reads air temperature well. Furthermore, it only reads to the whole number (i.e., no decimal places), and the aforementioned guide recommends temps which change by tenths of a point. But I cranked up the heat on day 4 by 3⁰, before adjusting, the meat thermometer said the bottom part of the incubator was around 97⁰. My incubator is a double stack and has styrofoam encasing the bottom layer but nothing surrounding the top so I wrapped it in a blanket but according to unreliable thermometers (before I started using the meat thermometer), it made the bottom a few degrees hotter than the top. So I removed the blanket and the meat thermometer deemed the bottom 2⁰ hotter than the top. On the last day, the bottom said 98⁰ and the top said 100⁰. 1 of 13 viable eggs hatched on the top and 11 of 34 hatched on the bottom.
As for humidity, a local who has hatched eggs suggested we don't put any water in the incubator until the end. It is a very dry winter here so I put water in anyways. The incubator and unreliable thermometers read a humidity range of 43-50% and dropped down in the 20s and 30s as I didn't always add water. I did put water in on day 16 and realized on day 19, I had previously turned the humidifying function of the incubator down and had not increased it. The humidity was around 40%. On day 19 I recognized and corrected the mistake. It was still stuck at 48% humidity. I reset the entire machine and put a humidifier directly next to the incubator to try to raise the humidity. It still only stayed between 50-60% (it was 60-70% on the previous hatches).

Any ideas why 34 of our developed eggs didn't pip? Any and all advice, input, or ideas are greatly appreciated.
 

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the Hubbard Incubation Guide states turning eggs 96 times per day
That seems wildly excessive. most machines do about 6-12 times a day.
even with hand turning, the recommended is 3-5 times a day, I wonder if the eggs got shaken up. Are these shipped eggs?
I also used some external thermometers to determine my incubator wasn't accurate and known of my thermometers were either. I had a meat thermometer which I could calibrate and it said the incubator was 3⁰F lower than it actually was. I'm unsure of the accuracy, however, considering that thermometer has a probe designed to be submerged in meat so I dont know if it reads air temperature well.
Unfortunately, 95% of the incubators you get on amazon are junk or require huge amounts of fiddling to operate with success. Double-decker models are huge design flaws since they can't maintain the correct temperature without proper heat retention and fans. I'd send it back and find a better model if you can.
How many air vents does it have and are they being blocked? Airflow is important.
You can buy better thermometers/hygrometers from a pet shop for reptiles. if they aren't designed to read air, you fill a sandwich bag with water, seal it and fold it over the probe to get a more accurate reading.
 
That seems wildly excessive. most machines do about 6-12 times a day.
even with hand turning, the recommended is 3-5 times a day, I wonder if the eggs got shaken up. Are these shipped eggs?

Unfortunately, 95% of the incubators you get on amazon are junk or require huge amounts of fiddling to operate with success. Double-decker models are huge design flaws since they can't maintain the correct temperature without proper heat retention and fans. I'd send it back and find a better model if you can.
How many air vents does it have and are they being blocked? Airflow is important.
You can buy better thermometers/hygrometers from a pet shop for reptiles. if they aren't designed to read air, you fill a sandwich bag with water, seal it and fold it over the probe to get a more accurate reading.

They are not shipped eggs, they came from our flock.

I'm including a picture of the top of the incubator which I think are the vents. There are 3 and they aren't blocked.

How will I know if the reptile thermo/hygrometer is accurate?

Great idea with the water in sandwich bag, I will be trying it.
 

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They are not shipped eggs, they came from our flock.

I'm including a picture of the top of the incubator which I think are the vents. There are 3 and they aren't blocked.

How will I know if the reptile thermo/hygrometer is accurate?

Great idea with the water in sandwich bag, I will be trying it.
Did you get your incubation problems sorted?

Sounds to me like you need to calibrate your temperature and humidity gages, and maybe add some sort of small fan to your incubator. There are methods for doing this listed in the Articles section.

I built a still air incubator, and worked through some of the same issues you seem to be having. You might find this info helpful, especially the two linked Articles. Good luck!

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...ubator-for-rescue-of-a-staggered-hatch.78314/
 
I’ve found that overturning is a major problem for heritage breeds that don’t have long lineages from hatcheries. I get the best hatch rates by turning 180 degrees no more than 3 times a day, with the eggs rested on their sides instead of air-pocket-side-up. Before I figured out overturning could kill embryos, I was often having 100% fail rates. However, failure happens shortly into week 2 when that is the cause. If they’re making it almost to the end, suspect temperature and humidity. Or bad genetics last.
 
96 times a day? WOW. I just looked up the guide, and yep, that's what it says. It even recommends turning them every 1/4 hour, and that "turning them as often as 480 times daily only slightly decreased hatch results." (Robertson I. 1961b)
https://www.hubbardbreeders.com/media/incubation_guideen__053407700_1525_26062017.pdf
For those reading: results MAY be dependent on many factors - type of incubator, temperature, humidity, angle of the eggs being turned, age and size of eggs, breed and age of parents, yada yada yada. Do NOT just go and start turning your eggs this often because of this guide. Always check the instructions for your specific incubator model.

Mine has an automatic turner that operates 6 times per day, but it just rotates them slightly right or left. I physically turn them 1/3 of the way around once each day. My latest hatch rate was 100%. Anecdotal evidence only, but still...
 
The temp was roughly 3 degrees lower once I actually calibrated the machine and I spent several days experimenting with insulation techniques to get the top and bottom to the same temperatures (they were 2 degrees different). Once calibrated, it never reached above 97⁰. It may have been 97⁰ through all 3 of the hatches I completed with it (resulting in 1, 19, and 12 hatchlings respectively). We traded chicken feed for a cabinet model 1270 GQF incubator and hatcher. I moved 90 eggs from the 97⁰ incubator to the cabinet incubator on day 4. It is now day 14. I'll let you know how it goes. The incubator is old but seems to work fine. It turns the eggs on 45⁰ tilts and I have been doing it more frequently than the auto setting. If anyone has any advice or info on this incubator, I'd be happy to have it. I'm unsure if I'm supposed to be adjusting the temperature. It's at approximately 100⁰ but the thermometer doesn't read to the tenth degree, just whole numbers. It's a stick with dial thermometer. It adjusts with a turn dial without any reference (it's old so the instructions or label may have worn off) so precision isn't known.
 
I candled the eggs at lockdown and at least 44 seemed viable. The rest showed no signs of development, 2 had the blood ring, or the shell was too dark to see anything. Some of the eggs were purchased at an auction so there is really no telling how old they are, how they were stored, etc. Some of the eggs are from our flock and probably the majority of what is hatching but we're at 20 hatched chicks and counting on day 21 😃🥳 one zipped all they way around and then nothing. I opened the incubator to set a bowl of water not noticing one had pipped (it was fully zipped around at that point) so I'm thinking I may have zapped the humidity and it shrink wrapped? That was over 24hrs ago. One is fully hatched but seems stuck in the shell halfway in and halfway out. Not sure if I should intervene but there are so many pips, I'm reluctant to open the incubator. Any insight is appreciated. I may start a new thread to get some advice on the half hatched chick; the fully zipped one seems gone 😔
 

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