18 keets but lots of questions

[jsimplytx125]

Hi all,
I have just received my delivery of 2 week old keets.
Many questions.
1 What is the process used to make the chicken, sheep pasture their own? I have the keets in a chicken brooder in the Chicken coop until they are big enough to move into a shed of their own. The shed is the old Barbado shed, dirt floor tin and hardware cloth on three sides, no door.

2 What will I have to do to make them feel that that is their safe place, or should I not worry about it. They look so tiny. My goal is to let them roam free on 4 acres, but I do have some aggressive border collies that would love the chase.

3 how long do they have to be before moving them out of the brooder? They are feathered out on the body but still have fuzzy heads. was told they are 2 weeks.

4 Do they ever get any tamer?

5 Do they come inside at dusk, or just pick a tree as their favorite?
If I need not worry about preparing the shed, I won't cry!

 

[Aj1911]

ok if you want them to roost some where you need to keep them there for 6 weeks minimum.

make sure the dog doesn't mess with them tell they can fly then the dog wont have a chance also the dog is gonna be the one running come next year, trust me i have 170lb wolf and he knows the guineas are boss.

wait tell they're fully feathered i would say about 6-8 weeks.

if you want them to they will come in at night just put them in there for 6 weeks before free raging.

 

[Aj1911]

also forgot to say yes they do get tamer mine let me hand feed them or pet them a little at night but thats it

 

[Guinea Goonie]

Feed them game bird and starter at this age. Keep them safe, warm and dry, they are babies.

Guinea fowl will start to call at about 8 weeks of age. You will be able to tell which one is female.

I band my female Guineas at this time as you will more than likely never to be able to do it again.

They will tame down once they are in free range and you win thier trust with treats.

It is VERY important that they have a shelter from the rain and such.

I would go ahead and put a door on your enclosure with high roosts, water and feed.

Keep them in the enclosure for about a week and let ONE out and wait for it to return at night.

Next let this one out and another and MAKE sure they BOTH return at night.

Finally, you can let them all out, but be vigilant to close your "coop" at night for keep them safe from predators.

It is NOT a good idea to let them just fend for themselves as they will make nests and will be killed setting.

Be sure they have plenty of fresh, clean water. They are very piclky about the water. Change it often.

At 10 t0 12 weeks you should be good to go with this plan. I would put them in the "coop" at about 10 weeks and at 11 to 12 weeks they should all be out free ranging and coming to roost in the coop.

Guineas do not like to be alone so use this as a trunp card when you are training them.

They require 20 percent protien feed after 4 weeks of age and DO keep a supply in thier coop at night with this or a mix of poultry grain and layer. The males will eat this with no problem.

Keep some oyster shell in thier coop for the girls in the spring though the fall. Winter is not a laying season for them.

They are VERY hardy birds, but they are vuneralbe to the cold and a heat lamp would be in order for those really cold nights, especially if you can not close your coop to the wind.

My Guineas roost in the barn with the chickens. They cuddle up to each other in the winter and they roost at the highest point they can get to.

They eat and drink with the chickens and I have them laying in the barn in a "special" place I have set up for them.

I have silkies that brood thier eggs and hatch thier babies.

Then I bring them inside to grow up for about 4 weeks and then off to the nursery until they are about 10 weeks.

I introduce them to the barn two at a time and they tend to buddy up with the other Guineas already there.

Remember they do not like to be alone and they will follow thier elder buds in and out of the barn/doop.

Guinea fowl are good eating and if you encounter a real turd in your flock i would recommend eating it.

A male that constantly chases the other males is dinner here.

 

[Paegglvr]

If they are fully feathered it sounds like they are older than two weeks... It took mine about almost four months before all of the the 'fuzz' on their heads was gone.

They are crazy social, so when trying to train them to come back, just let some of them out... they won't go far and will hang out near the ones still in the pen. Mine don't really roam unless the entire flock is together.

If they've been roosting in their own pen for a while (week or more) they will keep coming back. I have a yorkshire terrier that loves to chase them around... the bird don't seem to mind too much, it's training for evading predators!

Be prepared to lose some to predators. Mine are not incredibly bright... and its pretty easy for the local foxes to snatch one up.

As far as being tame, just feed them... they like that!

 

[jsimplytx125]

Thanks for all the advice!
I have 18 week old (huge) RIRs that I feed by automatic feeder. I feed the Guineas Turkey starter crumbles as suggested by X-treme games birds, where I bought them.
More questions.
1- What affects should I be wary of with feeding 20% or 28% pellets?
2- Are quineas as easy to feed as chickens, (will eat anything!)?
3- Do they prefer roosting at ground level or higher?
4- How do I identify male from female (something was said about call?)

Thanks. I must sound like the exasperating 4 year old. why, why, why?

 

[Paegglvr]

As to question 1, are you talking about effects on the guineas? If so, no side effects, guineas work well on turkey starter/grower. I actually raised my guineas with my turkeys... the only effect is that my turkeys think they are guineas.

2. Same as chickens... but once you start free ranging they really just take care of themselves.

3. Higher... really not too different than chickens.

4. The 'buckwheat' call... once they start up with it, its obvious.

 

[Aj1911]

Quote:
the chasing is like a pecking order for them just make sure they arent going to hurt each other and its fine, my head male guinea does it all the time worst that happens is the other one loses a few feathers.

and i did put 2 in the freezer that were really mean and would hurt the others.

 

[Guinea Goonie]

Quote:
the chasing is like a pecking order for them just make sure they arent going to hurt each other and its fine, my head male guinea does it all the time worst that happens is the other one loses a few feathers.

and i did put 2 in the freezer that were really mean and would hurt the others.

Oh yes, I have seen the game and they actually turn and chase each other. Today I watched two Guinea do this for about 20 minutes and did not think a thing about it. A third joined in and the fun was over.

What I am saying is there are males that WILL continually chase and wear down other males and do this constantly.

When they connect it is not a"play ruff and run" it is a terrible attack and waddles and eyes are hurt.

These guys join the freezer club and I do give them a few chances to obtain a "pecking order." Believe me I hate loosing a Guinea, they are real working birds here alwyas after the bugs the chickens seem to stay away from.

But you are right, this needed to be commented on.

rim

 

[Guinea Goonie]

1- What affects should I be wary of with feeding 20% or 28% pellets?

20 percent is plenty. Start giving poultry grain in a percentage at around age 8 weeks.

2- Are quineas as easy to feed as chickens, (will eat anything!)?

Guines will eat just about anything a chicken will. They do require a higher proten content. As mentioned, once they are free range (which is why most people have them) they find plenty of protein for thier diet.... bugs.

3- Do they prefer roosting at ground level or higher?

Mine roost at the highest point they can.

4- How do I identify male from female (something was said about call?)

The males Can Not do the "doulbe syllable" call which sounds like buck wheat or come back.

It is VERY distictive.