2 Hoop coop cattle panel questions

[21hens-incharge]

I read the OP as going longer than most, not wider, but yes - wider than the 8' used by most would definitely start creating more problems than it solved. Appreciate your experience.

I see.....longer is much easier than wider. It would mean just adding more panels until the desired length is reached.

 

[Brooks_]

I've used cattle panels (framed) to make an impromptu greenhouse. I wanted it portable. I used cattle panels inside the run covered with a tarp for a rainy day area. I used several metal tent stakes for that and it has worked well. The soil in that area is pretty hard so the question of frame or not would largely depend on the soil.

 

[affacat]

Many use (or perhaps, used to use) hoop coops as mobile chicken tractors, owing to the light weight - so 2x6 framing was needed to keep the structure together during transport.

In my wanderings across the internet, I HAVE seen a number of fixed hoop coop/hoop run designs which are fixed in place using pieces of rebar driven into the ground. Honestly, not sure how thrilled I'd be about a bunch of short rebar stakes sticking up, and doubt the average person has (or wants to invest) in Hickey bars for bending their own steel, but you can buy rebar j hooks to use as stakes (don't need the pointed end - 3/8" par is small enough you can hammer it into almost any soil).

Typically, one end of the panel is secured using four stakes (more may be necessary, or longer, depending on your soils - sandy soils are particularly bad!) then the panel is gently bent into an arch and the other side secured. Typically, something heavy - like a few CMUs - are used to temporarily hold it in place while the stakes are secured.

I happen to have hickey bars, and sandy soils. I'd be using #3 rebar, just like those, but I'd be driving at least 2' into the ground, not a mere 12". Likely by purchasing 20' lengths of rebar, then using a cut off wheel in the circular saw to reduce them to 2 1/2' lengths before bending.


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This is amazingly helpful post, thanks! I really like the idea of rebar j hooks. This solves the issue of having wonky green tbars sticking out of the ground.

I am still debating whether to frame it, but I know for a fact if I go with stakes I'm taking your advice here.

Yes. They don't make vinyl coated livestock panel(to my knowledge).

Now that you mention it, I haven't seen it in a store. I just assumed it existed so had researched and found

https://www.cattle-panels.com/cattlepanels/feedlot-panels.html

They seem to manufacture it? If you scroll down a bit they have pictures that claim to be of pvc cattle panel.

That said, I never price hunted for it....

However, if I go with @U_Stormcrow 's idea above, I would be okay with galvanized.

1. Dig trench
2. Attach hardware cloth to short ends of cattle panel
3. Stake cattle panel next to trench
4. Bury hardware cloth
5. Arch and repeat.

 

[affacat]

I've used cattle panels (framed) to make an impromptu greenhouse. I wanted it portable. I used cattle panels inside the run covered with a tarp for a rainy day area. I used several metal tent stakes for that and it has worked well. The soil in that area is pretty hard so the question of frame or not would largely depend on the soil.

So, given you've done both...

If your goal was to make a 32 foot hoop run (possibly more than 1), starting from scratch... which would you do considering the differences in cost, time, quality, etc.?

 

[Brooks_]

So, given you've done both...

If your goal was to make a 32 foot hoop run (possibly more than 1), starting from scratch... which would you do considering the differences in cost, time, quality, etc.?

That's tough. At 32', I would want to just stake it. I'd suggest starting with one panel in your yard as a test to see how your soil holds. The two ends about 7' apart creates an arch about 6' high, if that helps.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Trenching to bury the hardware cloth will make the ground very loose. I am thinking that would make any staking unlikely to hold.

 

[Brooks_]

Trenching to bury the hardware cloth will make the ground very loose. I am thinking that would make any staking unlikely to hold.

Good point. But just making an apron with some top soil on top could hold.

 

[mowin]

So, given you've done both...

If your goal was to make a 32 foot hoop run (possibly more than 1), starting from scratch... which would you do considering the differences in cost, time, quality, etc.?

Obviously your not planning on moving these.
The time to dig a trench around a 32' or longer hoop run is going to take a while. As mentioned, digging is going to loosen the soil making staking difficult.

I'd frame it, lay the HC along the ground 24" out. Lot less time. Frame makes it easier to attach supports that your most likely going to need.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Soil dependent.

I'd either stake it (clays, rocky soils), attach the hardware cloth apron, cover/backfill that.

-- or --

Frame it, trench the aprons (soft sand soils), shovel sand back in.

Mulch and garden soils are both on special right now - its that time of year - so if you wanted a shallow garden either side for appearances (just make sure to plant chicken safe stuff!) you picked a good time for it. I wouldn't go more than 1 1/2' wide, that about all the depth I can comfortably work without getting down in the dirt. 50 years, and the joints stop being so forgiving as in our indestructable youth.

 

[Brooks_]

50 years, and the joints stop being so forgiving as in our indestructable youth.

True. Even the bed hurts sometimes.