2 year old Brahma thin, low energy, very bright green liquid poo

[Rushdoggie]

ok I need help...my sweet Rusty (about 2 year old Brahma hen) is not well. Shes been molting so I haven't handled her much. She stopped laying about 6 weeks ago when the molt started.

The last 2 days I have noticed shes not out with the other 2 girls, shes off by herself. 2 days ago I called them for a treat and she ran a lot slower than I am used to seeing but looked ok and ate the treats so I didn't think much of it. Yesterday I saw her off by herself and she just stood there and so I carefully picked her up and she has lost a LOT of weight. Shes normally a very sturdy heavy bird and shes very thin. Her crop feels full but not overfull and shes eating (I saw her at the feeder and she'll eat treats from my hands). Her feathers are grown in but I don't think shes been grooming much as there's a lot of fully grown in feathers with the covering still on them.

I don't see any discharge in her eyes or nose, and her comb looks normal colored. I looked for mites and didn't see any, and her vent looks clean and not swollen.

Tonight I looked in the coop for a head check and looked right under her roost and she has some watery fluorescent green poo. I didn't see any worms.

I want to try to save her, shes really a pet and a very sweet girl and we are attached.

 

[micknapp]

Hi-
I’ve heard of this issue, and from what i’ve read the green poop is bile, which means all the fat stores are gone and she’s just pooping stomach acid essentially. So she’s starving- that’s the biggest issue you’ll need to tackle. I’ve read that the lime green poop isn’t super conclusive either. (I’ll link the thread i saw on this below) it can mean 1. worms 2. general starvation 3. bacterial infection.

this thread is suggesting tube feeding... that’s just so traumatic for all parties. you can always try to syringe feed with a high protein all flock ration. she needs protein. if you feed her and it doesn’t solve the green poop issue, it’s probably a bacteria and you’ll need an antibiotic.

best of luck to you & your little hen...

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/no-energy-and-bright-green-poop.625340/

 

[Chickenman MAN]

Hi-
I’ve heard of this issue, and from what i’ve read the green poop is bile, which means all the fat stores are gone and she’s just pooping stomach acid essentially. So she’s starving- that’s the biggest issue you’ll need to tackle. I’ve read that the lime green poop isn’t super conclusive either. (I’ll link the thread i saw on this below) it can mean 1. worms 2. general starvation 3. bacterial infection.

this thread is suggesting tube feeding... that’s just so traumatic for all parties. you can always try to syringe feed with a high protein all flock ration. she needs protein. if you feed her and it doesn’t solve the green poop issue, it’s probably a bacteria and you’ll need an antibiotic.

best of luck to you & your little hen...

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/no-energy-and-bright-green-poop.625340/

Try enticing her to eat with a food she just cannot resist-her favourite. As said above you can try syringe feeding liquid feed or electrolyte water. BUT this is a last resort as it can be dangerous and you need to research how to first. I'd try this, then, if she doesn't eat buy some wormer and antibiotics. Administer them. If you don't have wormer you can try some molasses dissolved in water until you do get some, this will help her poo out any worms. Good luck!

 

[Rushdoggie]

Whats worrisome is she is eating! but shes so thin...so shes not digesting

 

[Raeganmh02]

I am very sorry! Try to get her some probiotics to boost her system, and some good protein. Also, it is important that she drinks some water too. Wishing you the best!

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Shes been molting so I haven't handled her much. She stopped laying about 6 weeks ago when the molt started.

The last 2 days I have noticed shes not out with the other 2 girls, shes off by herself. 2 days ago I called them for a treat and she ran a lot slower than I am used to seeing but looked ok and ate the treats so I didn't think much of it. Yesterday I saw her off by herself and she just stood there and so I carefully picked her up and she has lost a LOT of weight. Shes normally a very sturdy heavy bird and shes very thin. Her crop feels full but not overfull and shes eating

Her feathers are grown in but I don't think shes been grooming much as there's a lot of fully grown in feathers with the covering still on them.

Please post some photos of your hen and her poop.

Sounds like she's still molting if there's still keratin sheaths covering the feathers.
Birds that are molting do not feel well and can lose a bit of weight of not feel as robust since they have a lot of feather loss.

It's very hard to gauge crop function when checking during the day when they have had something to eat/drink.
Feel her crop when she goes to roost, then again FIRST thing in the morning before she eats/drinks. The crop should be empty/flat in the morning. IF the crop is not empty in the morning then read the article linked below and let us know what you find.

For molting birds, I try not to handle them much like you said, but since you are concerned, gently tend to her. I like to provide my molters with a wet mash (make enough for everyone). I just soak their normal feed in water with a little buttermilk. I usually add B-Complex to the mix as well. You could also just direct dose her with poultry vitamins if you prefer to do that, but that just leads to more handling.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...w-to-know-which-one-youre-dealing-with.73607/

 

[Artichoke Lover]

Does she free range? Maybe restricting them to the coop or run for most of the so she’s not burning a lot of energy foraging. This is just a suggestion on top of what everyone else is saying but I know my girls lose weight when they free range most the compared to being in the coop or run.

 

[Chickenman MAN]

Double that! Pictures would really help

 

[Rushdoggie]

OK, update: I brought her inside and fasted her overnight and her crop was very squishy and full after 10 hours. When I massaged it it smelled like death.

SO I fasted her another day while massaging and I think it got smaller, but wasn't sure. Shes pretty weak and very thin so I was worried about fasting her again but kept it up for another day and it was definatley smaller and the smell was almost gone. The crop still felt squishy and boggy so I think she has a sour crop.

I decided to try to order some anti fungal meds and they would take a week to get here, so I kept reading and found some people had tried Monistat suppositories with good success and so I went and got some and 12 hours after her first dose (1/3 of a suppository) it was DEFIANTLY better.

So I am keeping her in, feeding her some scrampled egg and a little soaked plain feed and hoping feeding her isn't going to set her back but shes SO THIN. Shes campled out in kitchen hospital on the table and will drink and eat what I give her and hopefully after the med is gone she'll be better. Shes pooping more too.

Then she'll have to be reintroduced which will be another drama since one of my chickens is an awful b*tch and bully. Sigh. Its never boring.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

I decided to try to order some anti fungal meds and they would take a week to get here, so I kept reading and found some people had tried Monistat suppositories with good success and so I went and got some and 12 hours after her first dose (1/3 of a suppository) it was DEFIANTLY better.

So I am keeping her in, feeding her some scrampled egg and a little soaked plain feed and hoping feeding her isn't going to set her back but shes SO THIN. Shes campled out in kitchen hospital on the table and will drink and eat what I give her and hopefully after the med is gone she'll be better. Shes pooping more too.

Then she'll have to be reintroduced which will be another drama since one of my chickens is an awful b*tch and bully. Sigh. Its never boring.

Monistat is given twice a day for 7 days as described in the article.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...w-to-know-which-one-youre-dealing-with.73607/
If you have a way to cage her within the run or coop so she can be near the flock, this may make re-integration easier.

Please post some photos of your hen and her poop.
It's very hard to gauge crop function when checking during the day when they have had something to eat/drink.
Feel her crop when she goes to roost, then again FIRST thing in the morning before she eats/drinks. The crop should be empty/flat in the morning. IF the crop is not empty in the morning then read the article linked below and let us know what you find.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...w-to-know-which-one-youre-dealing-with.73607/