2 yr old rooster has gone psycho

To give credibility to what I write. Much of my background involves gamefowl (fighting chickens) but I also keep at least fifty American Dominiques and as a kid my family commercially produced hatching eggs for a chicken hatchery that sold to just about everyone interested in backyard / farmyard chickens. I likely have more roosters than most backyard people have chickens in total and that is when my flock size is at its lowest in early spring. My games need to be easy to handle because it is done a lot. My Dominiques need to be easy to because they are supposed to be. I also use my birds for educating the public and most of my contacts are kids and some of those are very young. Finally I always have at least one flock that free-ranges around house and others that free-range in adjoining pasture. Almost all male gamefowl are confined with the exception of one around house and those on walks. My very small kids intermingle with the flock that free-ranges around house and 4-year-old harem master is intact with respect to spurs. I also have been around chickens for well over 40 years.

Below are aggression categories as I recognize them and eluded to previously in thread. Each is defined when answering description of aggressive behavior. Pictures and videos I feel would help greatly and such are in the works. I also think maturation process needs to introduced to discussion where the term ”rooster” is avoided. Also, many of the forms of aggression below are not exclusively the realm of males.

1) Is he just running over, pecking / flogging then running to a safe distance to deny your counter attack and simply watching you?

Bird has associated such behavior with a reward. In most instances I have seen the bird has obtained food faster or in larger amounts by engaging in some behavior directed at you. This is frequently realized with brooder reared birds interacting with you as feeders are armed or eats otherwise become more evident with you present. Another situation is where birds work their basic tendency to try and get at the most attractive food which to them often involves it appearing fresh within their field of view. For me that can involve putting feed out from a bucket as feeding a flock of hungry birds. They rush after you pushing each and sometimes in the excitement the bucket or even you. Many people see such behavior and promptly put feed out for the apparently famished bird. It takes very little for bird to associate intense response with getting more or faster.

Prevention: Avoid rewarding exploratory behavior such as pecking and jumping up for food. Make so food reward is delayed relative to your activity around birds. My favorite technique is apply feed either when birds are asleep or foraging elsewhere. With latter you just call birds in after feed is applied.

Correction: Move about flock / bird even with feed but do not give feed out until bird looses interest.
Benefits of Behavior to You or Bird: I manipulate this behavior train birds for experiments and interacting positively with the public. Behavior promoted simply does not involve what a person would see as aggression. Smart birds are really prone to this.


2) Is he standing his ground and flaring his hackles and interspersing this with outright attacks with spurs, wings and bill?

He is outright fighting you for rank and treats you as a conspecific. Based on most discussions this the assumed by keepers of man-fighters. Something is or has gone on that got him into mindset that you need to be and can be defeated so as to be a subordinate. Somewhere along the line you got too familiar with him and / or he learned through exploratory pecking he can make you retreat. This is particularly prevalent with folks that are uncomfortable around their birds. Even many experienced keepers are afraid of their birds for one reason or another and sometimes these people are prone to act aggressively against the birds and even bully them. This situation is more frequent than you might suspect and denial is often a part of the problem. Folks like this may need to visit with the equivalent of Alcohol Anonymous to work problem out. I have even seen people into gamefowl that are scared of their birds and they would be ready to fight you if you said they were such. Males in particular will take advantage of activities that make them feel tough. This is where genetics can also impact predisposition for man-fighting.

Prevention: Do not retreat from him when exploratory pecking or even flogging occurs. Do not attack him in response to an attack as it is very difficult to do so with appearing to alternate between bouts of attack and retreat like which occurs when birds fight.

Correction: Make so aggressive bird can engage you by fighting you but do nothing that would be interpreted as fighting back or retreating. Let him wail away (flog) which may last several minutes. If he breaks off attack, then move towards him but do not even give him the respect of eye contact. Do not strike or push him. Repeat until he stops. Process may need to be repeated in subsequent days with hardheaded birds. You want him to start thinking of you as something that is very much not another chicken. This may mean a flannel shirt or sweat shirt and jeans. Ideally you will appear the same as you do on other days so he does not test you for days when you are weak. If spurs are an issue which they can be with birds more than 18 months old, then they can be neutralized by removal, trimming or covering with the equivalent of boxing gloves (most laymen will not have last option owing to legal restrictions). An alternative to this approach can involve the restraint / time-out sessions where bird does not get the release associated with combat but does get a penalty he will learn to avoid. This technique does appear to work although it takes more time and is hard on birds that are flighty and prone to panic when restrained which is a form of stress.

Benefits of Behavior to You or Bird: Can be used to help sell a gamerooster to a fool. In a competitive breeding setting such as in a commercial flock more aggressive birds garner more fertilizations of eggs therefore tend to be more prolific. This not directly related to what is referred to as gameness in gamefowl.


3) Is he attacking while fluffed up like a hen making lots of noises and moving about in a very fussy manner? This if often associated with roosters where members of his harem (hen(s) or offspring) are scared. Many roosters, especially games will attack whatever they see as the threat and sometimes, real or not, that can be you. His response will be in trying to repel you. Rooster may also get touchy when new feathers are coming in during molt.

Prevention: Be careful around birds, especially when hens or chicks are involved. Avoid grabbing birds during daylight. Get birds to move voluntarily. Any rooster is easier to work with when his charges are calmer so always having all birds tame helps immensely. One crazy hen can stir up a male. I always manage for calm birds and that means starting from before hatch of an individual. Be careful when handling birds, especially during molt.

Correction: Frequent low intensity interactions without stirring anyone up reduces sensitivity to your activities.

Benefits of Behavior to You or Bird: Such behavior can increase survival of males offspring which can benefit you. This especially with small predators a male can repel or distract.

Culling can also be employed, but some parties will, as a function of their husbandry technique, be culling a lot of birds that would not be problematic for most poultry keepers.
Thank you for this information! Wonderful advice and insight.
 
So centrarchid, using your methods as detailed, have you actually caused a permanent cessation in human aggressiveness in any line of birds, meaning that the trait did not surface in their offspring either?

It would help to know if this has actually worked but you've not yet clarified that. I'm sure if your methods permanently work, (as in stop the negative behavior both in the individual and ultimately its family line, not require management for decades or even a whole lifetime) then many people would rather employ them than culling. Certainly there's no shortage of people desperate to try all alternatives before the final one.

Obviously I personally disagree with your beliefs and methods, as is mutual, but that's fine, each to their own and what works for one won't work for all, so good luck to any who want to try your methods. I'm sure as adults we recognize there's no need to start calling other people derogatory terms just because we disagree, and in future I hope people can disagree without disrespecting one another. This is a good and necessary conversation we're having after all, if anyone has permanently successful methods I would like to hear about it as much as anyone else.

Best wishes to all.
 
I think this is just a situation of different people handling animals in different ways. Neither is wrong. And if you two were to switch processes, it probably wouldn't work out at all because it is your processes that work for you and your individual characteristics/beliefs.

Its the same with dog training. Some people need to do it a certain way and remind themselves of it. Some people need to be taught step by step because it doesn't come naturally, that's why its important for these things to be outlined, especially if someone is desperate to figure out a way to be responsible for their "pet" because face it if he wasn't a pet, he'd be stew by now.
 
centrarchid wrote ...Correction: Make so aggressive bird can engage you by fighting you but do nothing that would be interpreted as fighting back or retreating. Let him wail away (flog) which may last several minutes. If he breaks off attack, then move towards him but do not even give him the respect of eye contact. Do not strike or push him. Repeat until he stops. Process may need to be repeated in subsequent days with hardheaded birds. You want him to start thinking of you as something that is very much not another chicken...

Exactly. The first rule of Rooster Fight Club is that humans shouldn't be suckered into joining Rooster Fight Club.

Some more slightly `esoteric' material for those who are interested: http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1516-635X2006000100001
 
So centrarchid, using your methods as detailed, have you actually caused a permanent cessation in human aggressiveness in any line of birds, meaning that the trait did not surface in their offspring either?


I can get very similar behavioral results almost immediately through husbandry that you strive for through selection which takes a lot longer. My birds are a product of considerable selection so do not think I hold no regard for the breeder's hand in behaviors of domestic jungle fowl. It is simply not the only route as I am inherently a compromiser.

You never stop using good animal husbandry practices,.....................never. It is not just providing quality feed, water and protection.

Tame and not tame birds within my flock do not differ genetically. My tame birds among the games I will pit against yours or anyone's birds when comes to measures of niceness and I will not loose. You see I, like everyone else, can manipulate behavior of individuals long-term. My core birds used for educating public were randomly pulled from flock, tamed to the extreme, and will be on the job possibly past the year 2025 if I can keep varmints off them before such birds needs to be replaced owing to age. On an individual bird basis you are smoking dope if that is not considered long-term. With long-term over generations of the flock, good husbandry practices prevent the problem from arising in first place without need for further selection. My flock is closed and subjected to considerable selection where less than 10% of chicks hatch survive beyond a year. If an individual where to pop up that is overly aggressive, then it would get culled. Proper husbandry at least prevents birds without such defects from becoming aggressive.

I am pretty sure you can take hatching eggs from your superior line "non-aggressive" line and give them to someone else with very different husbandry technique and get back complaints about how a rooster becomes human aggressive. Having such happen would demonstrate to you that husbandry technique is operating on individuals of your flock, not just genetics resulting from culling. I could so opposite by getting eggs from an aggressive line belonging to someone else and rearing nice birds from those although a little effort might be required.

Also, my husbandry requires not more effort than a system that causes problems. I just do or avoid certain things to prevent problems. Considerable effort was made to indicate prevention which is key.

If you want to have birds with zero challenges with respect to behavior and to be consistent with all types of husbandry, then I suggest you switch over to rubber chickens. They eat nothing and can be stored in closet when not in use.
 
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In response to MANY like-minded posts here, I must say that I firmly believe that NO animal should be beaten into submission, or even struck, ..not even once. I think most everyone can agree that this especially does not work with a rooster. When my roo attacked last week, I kicked AT him only to get him away from me, and of course this only made him come at me more fiercely. Throwing a sheet over him and picking him up stopped him cold. Then he was locked in the coop to re-think his attitude problem. ;)
Since the attack, he has returned to his old self, and I am learning of ways to adjust my behavior around him to prevent this from happening again. I realize that those of you with the CULL HIM mentality think this is ridiculous, and that's fine. You are entitled to your opinions. Just know that I was being flippant when I titled this post, "Rooster has Gone Psycho". He is NOT a violent, psychotic, or mean roo. He has many good traits and is normally quite the gentleman. He deserves another chance, and right or wrong, .. that is exactly what he is getting.
Just a footnote: ..earlier this morning, I caught my roo, the hens, and the cat sharing a nap in the hay. lol. The cat, who has been chased out of the yard by him on numerous occasions, was snuggled right up to his wing! Is this some kind of violent, killing machine who must be culled at the first serious display of aggression? No, I think not.
Again, I will work with him, and I am hoping for the best.

Time will tell if I have made the right decision, but regardless of the outcome, at least I will know that I've tried. Thanks again to everyone for sharing your stories and experiences. I truly appreciate all of you, no matter whether you think I'm a fool for my decision or not. :) I have learned TONS from you from Day One of my chicken keeping, and I am continuing to do so. Good day to all!
I just saw these 'ovation' comments and I'd like to thank all of you for the positive thoughts! So far, my roo has been on his best behavior, and it's quite peaceful around here. :)
 
Just spent hours on this thread. Really good discussions. It's now late June, what has happened, Ganjaroo?

Yes, lucky for me that so many experienced keepers chose to post here! This has turned out to be a fantastic thread for anyone with an aggressive rooster. .. or any rooster for that matter. As for my particular roo, he is doing fine and has shown no serious aggression since. Thanks for asking! I am continuing to work with him, and I'm now quite certain that I can keep any aggressive tendencies in check.

Oh, and btw, ..this thread has been here one week as of today. It's not that old. :)
 
I just saw these 'ovation' comments and I'd like to thank all of you for the positive thoughts! So far, my roo has been on his best behavior, and it's quite peaceful around here. :)


Keep an open mind to learn. Set backs will be experienced but in the end the chickens will enrich your life. I am still a student of their keeping because there is far more about them that I have yet to learn.
 
I can get very similar behavioral results almost immediately through husbandry that you strive for through selection which takes a lot longer.
It's a bit confusing trying to connect some of your posts and make sense out of them, no offense intended, for the following reasons... I hope you can assist to clear these disjointed or contradictory statements up, as I'm sure I'm not the only one not seeing the connection between them:
Now you're saying my method takes a lot longer, which isn't the case at all and you didn't even know before I just told you now how long it took me to achieve my outcome, which is also strange; it suggests you have a different idea of what I'm suggesting or doing than what is actually occurring.
Your past statements are not yet cogent with what you're currently saying, the blanks remain unfilled so far, and I'm not saying this as some sort of personal attack so please don't take it that way. I'm genuinely just trying to make sense of this. You've now provided more info, so thanks for that. We'll get to some kind of understanding sooner or later at this rate.
That's your opinion obviously, and mine differs, but we've established that already. ;)
I believe it has a lot to do with genetics, as studies have shown aggression has a strong genetic basis. It's not all reliant on nurture at all, in fact that's got little to do with it comparatively. For the same reason, unlike some, I don't believe in working around a rooster's 'triggers' like yellow boots because when the kids are in the yard I need them to be safe no matter what color they are wearing, so no rooster gets a pass on 'color-provoked aggression'.
Look, I can see the value in that, but I just couldn't wait that long per bird to get it to breed true. You've not yet stated if it has bred true or if you're managing it with every new generation (?) which may not be relevant to anyone who is interested in your training methods but which is relevant to our discussion here.
My core birds used for educating public were randomly pulled from flock, tamed to the extreme, and will be on the job possibly past the year 2025 if I can keep varmints off them before such birds needs to be replaced owing to age. On an individual bird basis you are smoking dope if that is not considered long-term.
With long-term over generations of the flock, good husbandry practices prevent the problem from arising in first place without need for further selection. My flock is closed and subjected to considerable selection where less than 10% of chicks hatch survive beyond a year.
If an individual where to pop up that is overly aggressive, then it would get culled. Proper husbandry at least prevents birds without such defects from becoming aggressive.
For example, my idea of proper husbandry doesn't have any focus on preventing birds becoming aggressive as the predisposition was culled out, so I don't need to do anything special with them to avoid it recurring. I agree that aggressive individuals should be culled, but it seems I took it a step further than you and culled against aggression so strictly that it's no longer something that I have to manage in mine.
I never claimed they were 'superior', just like I never claimed I was an 'expert'. The various other derogatory terms you have also used against me are utterly unnecessary and don't help anything. We disagree. There is no need to keep using derogatory terms about my methods, my flock, or my knowledge. Kindly desist.
Some of the people buying them were complete novices and doubtless did many things wrong with them. One person I found out was very abusive to them; a few others were also abusive, though most not deliberately. They performed fine, no aggression in response to abuse. As for the rest of the people, nobody has identical husbandry methods to me, I'm a bit of an odd one out, but my chickens don't rely on husbandry methods to remain stable and nonaggressive so they coped with different husbandry methods.
Having such happen would demonstrate to you that husbandry technique is operating on individuals of your flock, not just genetics resulting from culling.
I could so opposite by getting eggs from an aggressive line belonging to someone else and rearing nice birds from those although a little effort might be required.

Also, my husbandry requires not more effort than a system that causes problems. I just do or avoid certain things to prevent problems. Considerable effort was made to indicate prevention which is key.

If you want to have birds with zero challenges with respect to behavior and to be consistent with all types of husbandry, then I suggest you switch over to rubber chickens. They eat nothing and can be stored in closet when not in use.
Jokes aside though, I haven't made any claims that my birds would suit all types of husbandry --- I have selected for free range suited animals who are non human-aggressive and can cope with being caged if necessary, but I wouldn't subject them to intensive battery hen style setups and have not selected for traits that would best suit that environment as I believe it's unethical.
I also haven't selected for cockfighting enthusiasts' tastes either. But I have apparently had success with establishing very low aggression lines suited to families with small children, not just those with adults capable of wielding brooms and rakes in their defense, with runs of separate cages to isolate males from other males and from humans. That basically was my aim --- non-human aggressive and non-bullying/cannibalistic/socially harmful chickens, who are that way from hatching onwards, not requiring special training to achieve that. My methods are but one of many with various and differing aims and outcomes.
Best wishes to everyone with finding what methods work for them and their particular setups.
 
Quote: My mind is wide open, I am sucking up all of the knowledge I can, and will continue to do so. My chickens have already enriched my life, and I'm sure that will continue as well. :) Thanks again for sharing your methods and experience with us, ..which I also hope continues!
 

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